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'">- 

** 




NOTES, 

ćtrUsioIoginl sni |itturtstmt, 

os 

DALMATIA, 
CROATIA, ISTRIA, STYRIA, 

W1TH 

A VISU TO MONTENEGRO. 



bt na 

Ebt. J. M. NEALE, M.A., 

WA£ĐE2f OF 8ACKT1IAE COLLEGE. 



fontom : 

J. T. HAYES, LYALL PLACE, EATON SQUARE. 
1861. 



20$. 4. 24$ 



$- 20 \ 



PKINTBD BT J. T. HATES, LYAI,L-PLACE, EATON-SQUAK|. 




pis |mptrial apostolu Pajesij, 
FEANCIS JOSEPH I. 

THIB VOLUMtf 

BT HIS MAJESTT'S GBAOIOU8 PEBMISSlOff, 

MOST RESPECTFULLT 

DEDICATED. 



CONTENTS. 



Chat. Paoe. 

I. AUSTBIA PfiOPEB, AND THE SaLZKAMMEBGUT . 1 

II. Sttria 16 

III. Tbieste and Aquileia 37 

IV. The Glagolita Rite 48 

V. Istbia 67 

VI. Veglia^Ossebo; and to žaba ... 91 

VII. Žaba : Sebenioo 112 

VIII. Spalato 135 

IX. Maoabska, Cubzola, Cattabo . . . 156 
X. The Ecolesiastical Divisions and Chubch 

POETBT OP DALMATIA ... . . . 172 

XI. MONTENEGBO 182 

XII. Ragusa ; and Home 193 



PREFACE. 



The reasons which inđuced me to unđertake the 
tour, an account of whicli the reader lias before him, 
have been briefljr đetailed in tlie First Chapter. 

I could not have carried it out with any advan- 
tage to the objects which 1 had in view, had it 
not been for the great kindness of His Excellency 
Count Apponvi, the Ambassador from Austria to 
this country. At the request of the Right Hon. 
W. E. Gladstone, to whom my warm thanks are 
also due, Count Apponvi favoured me with a very 
strong official recommendation to the authorities, 
both Ecclesiastical and Civil, in Dalmatia and 
the neighbouring provinces, — a document which 
proved most truly a golden key, opening every 
door, and surmounting every difficultv. 

Notwithstanding the excellent works of Sir 
G. Wilkinson, Mr. Paton, and Mr. Adams, an eccle- 
siological account of Dalmatia had yet to be written. 
I may also add that, to the best of my knowledge, 
several parts of our tour — a portion of Istria, and 
the whole Island of Veglia, so curious from the 
Glagolita rite — have never yet been described by 
an English traveller. 



VI PBEFACE. 

The more I was thus interested in those coun- 
tries and those peoples, — 

O fortunatos nimium, sua si bona norint ! 

the more I entertain the earnest hope that their 
prosperity may continue, unattacked by the malice 
of agitators, or the grasp of ambition. 

The more I compare the gentle sway of the Honse 
of Hapsburg with the cruel tyranny in old times 
of the Venetian Lion, the more earnestly I pray 
that the miseries of war proposed to be kindled, of 
the myriads to be armed against each other in the 
Littoral, may come to nought. Verily, heavy will 
be his guilt who shall defile those lovely — and no 
less happy than lovely — valleys of Đalmatia with 
the horrors of bloodshed! Nowhere is loyalty 
more ardent ; nowhere is education better carried 
out; nowhere, as it seems to me, are both 
Churches, Greek and Latin, more honourably 
acquitting themselves of their duty. 

God grant that ali may long remain so ! and 
with regard to those nations or monarchs who 
seek to destroy that present happiness, I think 
that every English Churchman will echo the old 
prayer, " Dissipa gentes qtue bella volunt /" 

It was only some six years ago, that we, who 
thought the war with Russia unnecessary and 
unjust, were regarded by the vast majority of 
Englishmen as monomaniacs. We have lived to 
see public opinion on our side. In like manner, I 



PBEFACE. Vll 

đoubt not that we shall live to see, in the juđgment 
of ali right-minded persons, Garibalđi and Walker 
classed together as filibusters; distinguished, at 
first, not by their guilt, but by their success ; and 
at last, I trust, distinguished neither by the one 
nor the other. I doubt not that we shall live to 
hear the noble defence of Gaeta, the almost 
romantic courage of its King and Queen, the un- 
shaken loyalty of its defenders classed with the 
heroism of Plataea and Saragossa. And there, as 
everywhere, may God either now defend, or in 
His own good time restore, the right ! 

Jan. 29, 1861. 

Circumstances, unnecessary to be stated, have 
kept back the following pages longer than I had 
intended. 

I have to express my regret that I have not 
received the plan of Aquileia referred to at p. 47 ; 
and have therefore omitted the Appendix. I am 
sorry that, firom my far greater familiarity with 
Fortuguese than with Italian, some names of 
Saints, in the accounts of churches, are spelt as 
they would be in the former language. I should 
mention, that part of Chapter VIII haš already 
appeared in the pages of an Ecclesiastical Review. 

It will be a sufficient gratification to me if I 
shall be thought by ecclesiologists (and especially 
by my valued fiiends and fellow-students the 



VU1 PREFACE. 

Committee of the Ecclesiological Societjr), to have 
thrown any light on the churches (I have đescribed 
exactly a hundred) of the seldom-visited countries 
of which my little volume treats. 

And, with respect to the remarks in the former 
part of this Preface, it does seem that, at last, the 
wholesale confiscation of ecclesiastical property, 
and the butcherly cruelties perpetrated on Cala- 
brian Royalists, are beginning to open men's eyes 
to the true character of the Italian Revolution. 

If I may end with a reference to that class to 
whom these pages are principallv addressed — what 
ecclesiologist (to take no higher view than that of 
a mere ecclesiologist) can fail to execrate the 
Government that has suppressed that most glo- 
rious Convent of Assisi, and left it the victim 
of complete and certain ruin ? 

Saokville Collboe, 

East Grinsted, June 6th, 1861. 

It is remarkable that the date of the above 
protest against Sacrilege should have been also 
that of its fearful Nemesis in the death of Count 
Cavour. 



A TOTIE IN DALMATIA. 



Chapteb I. 
AUSTRIA PROPER, AND THE SALZKAMMERGUT. 

I had long been desirous, as deeply interested in, 
and engaged on the historj of, the Oriental Church, 
of observing for myself the mutual action and re-action 
of theEastern and"WesternCommunions intheirborder 
lands on the east coast of the Adriatic. As devoted to 
• liturgical studies, I wished personallj to examine, in 
the only country where it is still in use, the ques- 
tions which ariše from the venerable and mvsterious 
Glagolita rite. And finally, as an> ardent student of 
Ecclesiology, I promised myself no small gratification 
from the churches of Istria and Dalmatia, — and, above 
ali, of Aquileia. At length, in the spring of last year, 
the opportunity, for which I had longed, presented 
itself. 

I was happy enough to secure the companionship 
of my friend, the Eev. Joseph Oldknow, D.D., 
Perpetual Curate of Holy Trinity Chapel, Bordeslej, 
whose many qualifications as a fellow traveller I had 
long since learnt, in the somewhat arduous tour in 



1 AUSTBIA. 

Portugal, of wbich he bas published an interesting 
little account. A community of interest in our pur- 
suits and inquiries, and tbe perpetual cheerfulness 
and unvarying good humour of my companion, — 
would bave been enough to make me forget incon- 
veniences of a far graver character than any which it 
was our lot actually to encounter. 

We left London on Tuesdav, April 17, 1860, by 
way of Dover and Calais, for Pariš. Proceeding by 
tbe Great Easiern of Erance, we devoted some days 
to tbe ecclesiology of Toul, Metz, and Strasburg. 
Hence, tbrougb snowstorms and bitter east wiDd, we 
made our way, by Karlsrube and Brucbsal, to Stuttgart. 
Here we were most kindly received by His Excellency 
C. T. R. Gordon, Arabassador at tbe Court of "Wur- 
temburg, and one of tbe first ecclesiologists of our 
day ; to wbom our tbanks are due for a most pleasant 
evening in bis bospitable bouse. 

Continuing our route by Esslingen, TJlm, and 
Augsburg, to Donauwertb, we then descended tbe 
river, whence tbat place derives its name, to Ratisbon. 
After giving two deligbtful days to tbat noble citv, 
we resolved, as I was deairous of obtaining some idea 
of tbe cburcbes in tbe Valley of tbe Danube, to 
continue our course by land. Up to this point, the 
cbief ecclesiastical buildings of "VVurtemburg and 
Bavaria have been so carefully described by Englisb 
ecclesiologists, especially by ray friend, Mr. Webb, in 
bis admirable work, tbat I could not bope to add 
anytbing to tbe results of tbeir researches. Ratisbon 
passed, I am treading ground not described, I believe, 



AUSTBIA. 3 

— at least not described in print, — by my fellow 
studenta. 

The Valley of the Danube, then, from Donauwerth 
to Passau, abounds in chupches, for the most part, 
framed in the same mould. Grenerally speaking, 
small, they have chancel or nave with north or 
south aisle ; tower, anywhere rather than at the 
west end; tallish, the square surmounted by, not 
bevelled into, an octagon : and that finished by a 
(later) bulb and spirelet. The square, preponderates 
over the apsidal, east end ; and the further we 
advance east, the more completely is this the case. 
Who will solve for us this great problem ? — Why is 
England the mother country of the one, France of 
the other, school ? and why do stone vaultings and 
gabied towers belong to the latter, wooden roofs and 
8quare towers, or spires, to the former ? This, I take 
it, is one of the deepest questions in ecclesiology. 

As might be expected in a land so often ravaged 
by war, there is eomparatively — to ali appearance — 
little of ancient work. The peculiar taste of the 
Jesuits, too, once so powerful in Bavaria, shows 
itself m the heavy gilding, stuccoed domes, and 
painted vaultings, — (frequently representing the his- 
tory of the Patron Saint) — everywhere to be seen. 
The larger churches seem to have had a series of 
narrow chapels, with elaborate vaulting, external to the 
nave aisles : this is to be seen, for example, in 
the parish church of Wilshofen, our first 
day , s journey from Ratisbon. The road 
from this place to Passau runs close to the Danube 
ali the way, and is seldom far from the railway. I 

£ 2 



4 AUSTBIA. 

saw these two churches between Wilshofen and 
Fassau : 

Hasbruch is a very curious building, the 
railway (then in progresa, since opened) 
touches the churchyard wall. Circular externally, it 
is octagona! within, — vrithout constructional choir, 
porch, or original tower ; though,with eiecrable taste, 
the latter was added in 1762. The original pitch of the 
pyramid-like roof, which is very ancient, is preserved, 
and has a fine and very singular effect. There is a cen- 
tralpier, as in aChapter-house — circular, with octagonal 
base and the ribs spring iramediatelj 
from the upper part without any 
capital. The vaulting is thus : — 
On three of the cardiual sides, 
there is an ugly broad laucet ; there 
is also a western door; the whole 
is evideutljr of Flambovant work. I should like to 
know whether the peculiar shape of thii* church is a 
mere freak of the arehitect, — or whether a specimen 
of a local type. There is another entrance by a 
gallery and circular turret, from — what is now — a 
farm on the south side, but vrhich I suppose to have 
been a religious house ; not the least curious part of 
the whole arrangement. 

Next we čame to Santpor, a small 
p * Flamboyant church. Chancel, — nave, — 
»outh tower, apse trigonal ; windows of two lights, 
Irefoiled with awkward quatrefoil in lead. Nave, — of 
two bays, with an ugly lancet on each side. The 
checkie vaulting of the chancel and nave, evidently 
later, is very singular. The tower is nearly square, 
with ovramidal heading. 




AUBTEIA. 5 

The road continueB between the future railway and 
the river, tili the towers of Passau come in sight. This, 
episcopal city though it be, has but little to interest 
an ecclesiologist. The situation is unspeakablj grand ; 
the Danube, with the bold heights beyond ; the larger 
Inn, obedient in its course, and henceforth to take 
its name from its inferior rival; and the black Ilz 
pouring into the united streams from the opposite 
side, at the moment of their junction. Here I would 
recommend an inn not mentioned by the guide-books, 
the Ghrunen JEngel ; where we were very comfortably 
off. Ali the churches are modem, though here and 
there with traces of old work. 8. Michael 
has nothing interesting ; I here heard the « ufT' i 
devotion of the Stations — it was a Friday 
— gone through wifch considerable earnestness by a 
large congregation. Beyond this, is the 
once conventual church of 8. Paul, a huge 
Italian building, with stucco, gilding, and painting, to 
the heart's delight of the seventeenth centu ry. On 
the north side are some poor remains of early Flam- 
boyant cloisters, and a square-headed entrance-door, 
very good, of that date. Among the earlier mural 
monuments of this cloister, several are to the Abbesses. 
Beyond this again, the Jesuits* Church, 
really worthless. Going down the Dan- church 
ube— it was a day of continuous rain — 
I found a church of which I could not learn the 
name ; only so far curious, that, amidst ali the tinsel 
work of the seventeenth century, ifc has evident 
remains of a Romanesque narthex, the arches singu- 
lar^ stilted. The Cathedral stands ona . , , 
height ; the nave was rebuilt, after having 



6 ATT8TBTA. 

been destroyed by fire, in 1665 ; the choir, thougb 
too much mutilated to be worth a description, must 
have been very fine Flamboyant, (1407 — 1450). Be- 
yond the Inn is the church of S. Gertrude 
' entirely modem. The chief devotion bere 
is that of Moma Hilf, whose church, behind the Inn- 
Stadt, with the black wonder-working image of Our 
Lady, is a celebrated pilgrimage. It is reached by an 
ascent of 264 steps, up which you may see many a de- 
vout pilgrim toiling on bis knees, and repeating a Pater 
Noster or Ave at each. Every little print shop bas 
its view of Passau shadowed by the guardian care of 
Our Lady of Good Help. 

The 8cenery of the Danube from Passau to Linz is 
very fine ; though the rain still continued, the contrast 
was striking, as we saw it, between the sombre tint of 
the fir-clad mountains, that rise on either side, and the 
vivid young green of the spring chesnuts scattered 
here and there among them. Patches of snow at 
this, the end of April, still lay heavy on the upper 
hills, and drifts and tails of cloud dragged themselves 
here and there over the rocky heights. So down the 
river, dark, turbid, and swollen, — with half an hour's 
stoppage at Engelhardtzell, the Austrian frontier, — 
to Linz. We were at the Mother Krebs, which is on 
the left bank of the river, and close to the water's 
edge ; very comfortable quarters. The view from the 
window of our vaulted room, which commanded that 
part of Linz which lies on the other side of the 
Danube, rather reminded me — to compare small things 
with great — of that which you have of Cologne from 
the Belle Vue at Deutz, 



AUSTRIA.. / 

Linz, though the capital of Upper Austria, is a 
very dull place for an ecclesiologist. ¥e were there 
on the second Sundaj after Easter. First 
to the Cathedral, a modem and utterly c ,"? . 
worthles8 building. There was a good con- 
gregation, and a very fair sermon on the orphanhood 
of the Disciples during the ten days of our Lobd's 
departure. Then to Ali Angels, also a modem church, 
where we heard a very good military mass. I waa 
much struck, in the offertory, with the soft and 
gentle strains in which the — A vooman tohen she is in 
travail hath sorroiv, was given, compared with the 
jubilant expression of thankfulness in — " She remem- 
bereth no more her anguish for joy, — for joy, — fob 
jot, — that a man is born into the world;" so com- 
pletely carrying out the mediseval interpretation of 
the long travail of the Church ; and then to thank- 
fulness that, at the end of four thousand years, — The 
Man, the long-promised God Man, should be born 
into the world. 

In the great square, on the northern side of the 
river, is a most profane juxtaposition of three pillars, 
— the Trinity Column in the centre, surmounted with 
the most offensive type of seventeenth century pro- 
ductions, and raised in consequence of the deliverance 
of Linz from cholera, — on one side a column bearing 
a statue of Neptune, on the other, a pillar surmounted 
with Jupiter. Crossing the long wooden bridge, 1700 
feet in length, we visited a church in the southern 
quarter, as worthless as the others. I could obtain 
no Information regarding the magnificent Gothic 
Cathedral about to be erected here. 



8 AUSTBIA. 

In the afternoon, the railway, running through a 
very dull country, takeB us to Lambach. We reach 
that place about four— and now the Salzkammergut 
mountains, among Which we are so soon going to 
plunge, štand out clear and blue to S. and S.W. 
As we enter the quaint little town, we pass the great 
Benedictine House, still in full work, and take up our 
abode at a quiet little country inn, the Schtuarzes 
Rossel. And first, again passing the monastery, and 
descending a steep hill, we make our way along the 

side of the green Traun to the bluff hill 
H T^t °^ ^ awra > round which the village niches 

itself in various green nooks. A pleasant 
field walk, with cowslips, ox-eyes, orchises, and forget- 
me-nots, to teli how forward, after our late mountain 
passes, spring was here in the lowlands, I may quote 
what follows from a letter written the same night — 
" First through a lovely valley, starred with cowslips, 
to the church of Baura. This stands on a high bit 
of table land, that almost overhangs the town ; a most 
pleasant situation ; the green river foaming beneath ; 
wooded banks on its other side. Look up the stream, 
and the Benedictine Monastery crowns the opposite 
height ; look south, and you have the chain of purple 
mountains, snow-striped and speckled, great Traunstein 
towering above the rest. Baura is dedicated to the 
Blessed Trinity, and was built in 1755. It is trian- 
gular; has three doors, three wiudows, three sacristies, 
three organa, and is built of three sorts of Sicilian 
marble, and cost 333,333 florins. Over the first 
entrance I read, Deum Patrem Creatorem Mundi, ve- 
nite adoremus ; opposite in a wretched transparency 



AUSTRIA. 9 

behind the altar, is a very ofFensive picture of the 
Fatheb. Over the second door, Deum Mlium Re- 
demptorem Mundi, venite adoremus ; and opposite, our 
Loed's Ascent from the Cross. Over the third, Deum 
Sanctum Spvritum, venite adoremus ; and opposite, the 
Nativitv ; I suppose, as broughtto passbv the operation 
of the Holy Ghost. 

" From Baura wewalked back to themonastery at 
Lambach : it consists of two or three quadrangles, with 
lines of whitewashed square-headed windows, some 
two hundred years old. But the foundation is of the 
eleventh centurv ; and there it is in life. We were 
8hown into the church by a servant ; there is nothing 
wbatever in it. I ask for the library ; it is not to 
be seen. I send in niy recommendation ; out comes 
the Librarian, one of the Fathers, a very pleasing man, 
rather tali and stout, about fifty. He took us over it ; 
it has 14,000 volumes ; manuscripts of great value, and 
an almost priceless collection of ecclesiastical Incu- 
nabula. JVhat are Incunabula ? you ask. It is the 
name that Germans give to books printed before 1500. 
I found some pretty little manuscript breviaries : but 
manuscript missals there were none. At last I got 
two early printed ones, Augsburg and Frisingen ; 
and finding some sequences not yet reprinted, asked if 
I might have them to copy at the inn. This could not 
be done unless application was made to the ' Prelate.' 
They had just finished supper: it was nearly seven : 
we were shown into the little refectory. The Abbat 
was a very striking man, I imagine about forty, by far 
the most intellectual looking of the whole set ; only to 
be distinguished from the rest by a gold pectoral cross. 



10 AUSTBIA. 

* Certainly we should have the books ; was there any- 
thing else he could do for us ?' * Might we attend com- 
pline and matins ? ' * What were we ? ' ' Priests of the 
English Church.' 'Surely, why not?' Then he sent 
for some wine of the monaste^'s own growth, and we 
and the fathers had each a tumbler. Before we had 
finished, the bell for compline rang. The little hours 
were said, not in the church, but in a small oratory. 
At its east end is no altar, but a cross. The stališ, 
which have misereres, are not returned, and there is a 
kind of ante-chapel. The Abbat sat in the western- 
most stali of the north side, and gave me, as the post 
of honour, the place on his left hand. Opposite to 
him was the prior. Service began by a German lec- 
tion, a translation of S. Bernard, by the Prior. In 
about ten minutes, the Abbat rang a little bell, and 
the reader stopped. Then began the ordinary compline 
service. That ended, except the last benediction, a 
Probationer read in German, a praver, asking forgive- 
ness for that day's sins, and a resolution to sin no 
more. This resolution was repeated by the fathers in 
common. Then the Abbat, also in German, said, 
' Remember that, as you are now about to lie down in 
your beds, so some day shall you lie down in your 
graves. Eemember that, as you for yourselves close 
your eyes in sleep, ao some day they must be closed for 
you in death. Eemember that, as you cover yourselves 
with your bed-clothes, so some day you will be wrapped 
in the shroud.' Then he gave the benediction, sprinkled 
the others with holy water, but gave it us to take for 
ourselves. The service, I ought to say, was on the 
monotone, except the hymn and the antiphon and 



AUSTRIA. 11 

Nunc Dimittis, but very striking from the đeptli of 
voices. There are about five and twenty fathers and 
brethren. Back to the inn ; coffee : then I sat 
up late vvriting out the sequences. At 330, very un- 
willingly, I confess, up again ; and I was soon knocking 
at the gate of the Quadrangle. I had my old place by 
the Abbat. Matins began at 4*0, were over about 5*10 ; 
they were simply Benedictine, vrithout any local pecu- 
liarity : Psalms said on the monotone, antiphons, &c, 
sung. And then I went to bed for three hours more, 
with sunicient satisfaction." 

There is a railway from Lambach to Grmunden, on 
the Traunsee, but we preferred engaging a kind of car ; 
and accordingly early the next morning we were passing 
the Benedictine Monastery; and crossing the Traun, 
Baura long towering to our right, we made our way 
south. Our first church was Boitham. It R 
has chancel, nave, south porch, and western 
tower. The whole is of Flamboyant date. Trigonal 
apse : choir of two bays and a-half; nave of three; 
vaulting very elaborate. There is one of those strange 
original western galleries which we shall find accom- 
panying us even as far as Croatia; and which, for 
want of a better term, I shall name narthex-galleries. 
They are of stone ; always Flamboyant ; sometimes 
stretched from aisle-wall to aisle-wall ; sometimes from 
pier fco pier ; have one, or two, or three bays, from east 
to west. The present example has four bays, from north 
to south ; one from east to west, with eight-clustered 
»hafts, and very singular and elaborate vaulting. The 
use of these erections I cannot even guess. Were 
they for the choir — which would agree with its posi- 



}2 AUSTBIA. 

tion in Portuguese churches — or for some partieular 
class of worshippers — as women ? The font is rather 
small, đodecagonal (this we shall find a local pecu- 
liarity): sides slightly concave, circular base. The 
intemal door of the south porch is a square-headed 
trefoil, with rich inter-penetrating mouldings; the 
vaulting, thus, very rude : 




There is ac external benatura, as always here. The 
tower is thin and tali, of six stages, divided by strings, 
but without windows. Under an open lean-to on 
the south side of the nave, is a representation of 
The Agony. I venture to quote froin another letter. 
"Here we left our vehicle, and scrambled down 
liill to the Traunsfall. It is partly spoilt by the river 
having been, to a certain degree, canalised for a mili ; 
but still a very grand sight. The deep green of the 
water ; a kind of purple haze on the outside of tho 
spray ; the thunder of the fali, pent in, and echoed by 
the steep banks. The fali somewhat resemble3 a 
capital E : the mili stands at the lower end, and from 
one of the outhouses, which actually overhangs the 
stream, is the best view. I suppose the height to be 
30 feet ; the breadth of the river, 80 yards ; depth of 
water, 7 or 8 feet. Hence, it iš by far the most mag- 
nificent cascade I ever saw, and it gave one such great 



ATTSTBIA. 13 

quiet peaceful thoughts ; made one (I know not why) 
think more of God's love than His power. I leant 
over the thunder of the water for some twenty minutes ; 
the spray-rainbow sometimes arching above my 
head ; and thougbt how utterly untrue those lines of 
Bvron's are about — 

The hell of waters ! where they howl and hias, 
And boil in endless torture : where the sweat 
Of their great agony is wrnng from this 
Thrir Phlegethon, — 

and how mucb more naturally one's thougbts dwell on 

the "voice of many waters round the throne," of 

which this, the 'Alleluiatic Sequence ' of the earthly river 

is tbe faint tvpe. On again : to LaaMr- T _ . . 

__ , , » . Laakirchen. 

chen. Here the schoolmaster brought m 

a school to say their mid-day prayers in cburch " They 

may kiss your hand, may they not ?" said he. So the 

little mites, 40 or 45 in number, had that honour, 

and passed on, as I made the sign of the cross over 

each, with great content. Pretty children they were 

too. Tou know the beauty of the girls and women in 

this part of Austria is proverbial." 

This church is a very singular building, of Flam- 

boyantdate, with south sacristy, chancel, nave, narthex- 

gallery,westerntower,south porch. Thehexagonalapse, 

and chancel of two bays, are modernised. The nave is 

most remarkable : it has two bays for itself, two for the* 

gallery. In the centre of the former halfisapier; 

circular stilted base, voluted stem, then becoming 

four-partite : no cap. The vaulting suits this ar- 

rangeraent. The gallery has, north to south, four 

bays, east to west two ; the mouldings very elaborate. 



14 ATJSTRTA. 

The piers are octagonal, with concave sides. There 

was an original stone staircase of sixteen steps on the 

south side. The font is sin ali ; the south porch almost 

a fac-simile of that at Eoitham. The western tower 

has that remarkable singularity, a south door. It has 

five stages, separated by strings ; only one little 

square-beaded light in the uppermost; it is double- 

gabled. On the west end is this date, IpVl, which 

I read 1446. The external appearance of the whole 

building is very picturesque, from the enormous pitch 

of both choir and nave, and the great length of roof 

where the lean-to joins the former. 

The country now rapidly increases in sublimity ; we 

pass the brow of the hill, and the Traunsee, like a gem 

set in a shrine of purple mountains, breaks on us ; 

Ghnunden couching picturesquely on the near side. 

We alight at the inn, — the Sonne. Mine host proffers 

forelle and kid : we order them, and go to the church, 

_ , a building of some 'pretensions. Chancel, 

Gmunden. x ° . . t r _ , g , ' 

nave, two aisles to the latter, narthex- 

gallery, westem tower, north and sonth porches ; the 

whoIe Flamboyant. Ali the windows are moderni sed. 

The apse is hexagonal ; choir of one bay, vaulted sepa- 

rately ; the nave of three. The piers are very poor 

and awkward, circular on square base ; no caps. The 

gallery extends only across the nave; three bays north 

to south, one east to west. The tower is engaged ; 

the aisles are awkwardly carried along it with a half 

arch. In the north* aisle, north of the tower, is a 

very fine altar, in its way, of red marble, the reredos of 

* So it is in my notes; but my memory strongly suggests the 
south. 



AFSTBIA. 15 

the same material, with the souls in purgatory below ; a 
landscape resembling the valley of the Traun above : ali 
this is in white marble and high relief. There is this 
clironogram : — 

paVCa Ceres ©sos speCIesqVe MerI CererlsVe 
8lC hIC fLagrantes Igne plante plat. 

i. e. 1653. This church is the first in which we have 
8een any preparations for the month of Mary, and they 
are very slight here. The north and south porches 
resemble those at Roitham. Tsear the south is a rudely 
executed figure of a knight in bas-relief, with the date, 
1497. Dinner over, we go on board the steamer which 
takes us to the southern extremity of the lake. 

Oh that lake ! how marvellously beautiful it is ! The 
passage took seventy-fi ve minutes ; and an intelligent 
passenger told me the names of each mountain, as to 
our left — for, on the right, the scenery is more pastoral 
— it peered over the blue waters. Traunstein rises, 
monarch of ali before us ; but, in succession, fir-capped 
Erloch-kufel, purple Hundstein, wild Hirschen-belt, 
double-peaked Schnee-marl, lordly Radelstein, precipi- 
tous Spitzel, and uttermost Dartstein. And so we 
land in the quaint little town of Ebensee. 

We send our luggage on in a car ; ourselves walking 
up the valley of the Traun, ten miles, to Ischl. 

Can I ever forget — can I, or any one else, ever 
describe — the glorious scenery of that mountain 
walk? 



16 



Chaptee II. 

STTRIA. 

We were said to be the first visitors at Ischl; and 
whatever the Hotel Kaiserinn Elizabeth may be in the 
season, it seemed to us a cold, desolate, rambling, 
barn-like place now. Glad enourfi we were to have 
the stove of our great room b'ghted ; and then they 
served us a sufficiently good dinner. Next morning, 
with some diflieultv, we changed a ten-pound note, 
and therewith procured an einspanniger Wagen\ which 
we resolved never to do again: its pače being not 
three miles an hour. Lauffen was our 
' first church, and a sufficiently curious one ; 
chancel, nave, south chapel to the former, and south 
aisle to the latter ; western tower. The chancel is 
modernised and painted : apse pentagonal. The south 
chapel has also a projecting pentagonal apse, with a 
well-defined apse arch. The nave has three bays ; the 
piers are circular on octagonal base, and without 
caps ; the responds singularly bold and good. The 
font is dodecagonal, on circular base, and that on 
square plinth. The internal door of the tower has 
an excellent iron grill ; for we are now on the 
borders of Styria; and I have no doubt that we 
shall find King David's rule, "Iron for things of 
iron," carried out to the full. The tower itself is 
modern. In the church-yard there is an ossuary, such 



STTBU. 17 

as I haveseen in Bretagne,the scullsarrayed on shelves ; 
with a Maltese cross, and the name, inscribed on each 
forehead. A glorious mountain towers to the south 
immediately above the church. Frora here our route 
continues through a magnificent vallev, with oecasional 
patches of snow on the higher peaks } but alreadv 
Potschl begins to lift himself up in front, towering 
more precipitously every hundred yards that we 
advance. At seven miles from Is»chl, we reach 
Goisling. This is a Protestant village ; 
traditionaUy so, far beyond the time of 01S inff * 
Luther, and connected, I suppoae,witli the Turlupins of 
the middle ages. The people are now, however, red- 
hot Lutherans ; and my companion, peeping through 
the window8 of their place of worship, reported that 
the altar was decked out with candlesticks and crucifix, 
after the ordinary Lutheran fashion. The village 
church, nevertheless, which serves the minority of the 
inhabitants, is Catholic It is not at ali easy to under- 
stand, and has been very much moderniaod. I take 
itthat,being originally a cross church, the south tran- 
sept has been turned into the choir; the original 
chancel contains some fair Flamboyant work; the tower 
at the west-end is tali, thin, and modernised. The 
font here, also, is dodecagonal, and clearly by the same 
hand as that at Laufien. Still proceedicg eastward, 
we come to the fork of the road, whereof the right 
branch goes to Hallstadt and the left to Aussee ; and 
in a few minutes more stop at a church, which tiie vil- 
lagers caDedStagga, and which, with some little trouble, 
I make out to be 8* Agatha. It has chan- 
cel, nave, andwe»tern towerj theapse is tri- s ' 

c 



18 STTEIA. 

gonal ; the choir has two bays, with elaborate late 
raulting. The nave is spoilt with a flat roof of 1853. 
The windows of the nave are, I think, Middle-pointed, 
of two lights, trefoiled, quatrefoil in head; the ex- 
terior arch, ogee. The south door is round-headed 
Flamboyant. The east-end is blocked up by a huge 
painting of the Passion ; the rock of the Sepulchre is 
represented on each side of the altar. The font, also 
dodecagonal, is by the same hand as the 1rwo last, 
though rather inferior. This village is full of enormous 
piles of pine wood; for one of the great mountain slides 
passes close to it ; and ali the time that I was taking 
the churcb, I could hear the occasional avalanches of 
pines, leaping and crashing down their troughs. There 
was also a may-pole outside the church. And now 
we began to ascend Potschl, taking another horse at 
S. Agatha. The ascent is made with but few zigzags ; 
the enormous squadrons of forest-trees that cluster the 
mountain almost to the top, are very striking. Up 
at that height, the height of Snowdon, it was a 
pleasant spring day ; the primroses and violets peeped 
out where the snow had melted; and the sun, which 
had considerable power, brought forth ali the fra- 
grance of the young turpentine, not less sweet, I 
thought, than the incense which the gum-cistus of 
Portuguese mountains sends up at morning and even- 
ing to heaven. 

Here T had a long talk with a poor wood-cutter who 
was going to Aussee, and whose basket of tools we 
slung on behind our carriage. He told me, that two 
springs ago he had lost his only son, Franz, in one of 
Jhe timber-slides. He and the boy were just about to 



STTBIA. 19 

sit down to their dinner by the side of one higher up 
the mountain, when a hungry dog made a snatch at 
the cloth in which it was folded up, crossed the slide, 
and was carrving it off. The boy jumped up and ran 
affcer him ; but his foot slipped in the slide, in which 
some snow was lying, and before he could extricate 
himself, a huge pine čame down and dashed him to 
pieces. "And between twelve and one," said the 
father, " which was too wicked," because it is under- 
stood that no timber is felled or sent down at the 
dinner hour. The pine forests do not reach quite to 
the top of the mountain ; and on a bare piece of 
common land, bleak and desolate, stands a stone which 
divides the Stjrian from the Austrian Salzkammergut. 
A long, but easy and well-engineered descent, brings 
us into Aussee, the capital of the latte? district. Here 
we had the happy intelligence at the inn that there 
were firstrate forelle ; so having ordered them to be 
boiled blue, as the phraae goes, we went out to see the 
churches. The parish church is of very 
considerable siže ; it has chancel, nave, 
south aisle to each, south chapel with ciypt, and 
north chapel. The apse is pentagona!, but modern- 
ised ; in its north-west bay there is a sacrament-house 
which reaches to the top of the coustructional arch ; 
it is very late, almost Italian. The choir has one 
bay with very elaborate vaulting: the nave three; 
there are great pews with doors. Here again we 
found a narthex gallery. The tower at the west 
end is very lofty ; of five stages, divided curiously 
enough, by strings, or rather sets-off, of shingle ; 
there you see the effects of the pine forests, for this 



20 



STTBIA 



shingle i» of đeal : it has a gabled pyramidal heacL 
The south door is !Flamboyant, with an original 
image of S. Peter ; and to your right, as you enter, 
is the south chapel of which I have spoken, and the 
crypt, both modernised. 

In retuming from this church, my companion 
having gone to look after the forelle, I hit on a 
curious chapel which was the cause of their being com- 
pletely spoilt. It is rery small, with pentagonal apse r 
nare of two bays and nartbei gallery ; the windows in 
its apse, fire lancets ; the whole building appears First- 
pointed. Bat its interest is concentrated in a mag- 
nificent triptych. When open it is thus : — 



2 




3 




1 


1 


4 



Maria Memento Mei. 
1«K9, 

In the centre is the usual fifteenth-century repre- 
sentation of the Blessed Tbinitt, the Fatheb seated 
holding the Crucifix, while the Holt G-host hovera 
between the two figures. Six saints, but not marked 
with any especial attribute, štand on each side. The 
leaves, when open, are thus ; — 

1. Eight saints, unrearked with any especial attri- 



OTTBIA- 



21 



bute ; above tbem a legend which I could not decy- 
pher. 

2. A Pope, a Cardinal, a Bishop, and other Saints. 

3. An Emperor and Empress. 

4. Severai saints, ali of them in tho religious habit. 
This ciosed, the arrangement is as follows : — 



1 2 


3 


4 


5 6 


7 8 


9 


10 


11 12 




13 







L S. Katherine. % S. Barbara. 3. Tbe Annuncia- 
tion. 4. Tbe Tisitation. 5. S. Dorotbea. 6. S. 
Margaret. 7. S. Lucy. 8. S. Apollonia. 9. Tbe 
Nativity. 10. Tbe Epiphany. 11. S. Agnes. 12- 
Pemale Saint, (? wbo). 13. S. Teronica, witb an 
augel at eacb end of tbe compartments holding at tbe 
handkercbief. Under ali : A. E. I. 0. U., tbe well- 
known Austrian device, Austriae Est Imperare Orbi 
Universo. Tbe wbole is extremely well painted. 

On the soutb side is anotber triptych. When 
open, thus : 



1 


2 


3 



22 STTEIA. 

1 and 3 are occupied by the apostles. In 1 S. Bartha- 
lomew, S. Matthew, S. James, S. Simon, S. Peter 
(with one key,vested entirely in white), S. Philip. 

In 3 S. Philip (repeated), S. John, S. Matthew, 
S. Andrew, S. Judas, S. James the Less. 

At the back of 1 is The Agony in the G-arden. 
At the back of 3 are S. Sebastian, S. Koche, 
S. "VVolfgang (a bishop with a church in his hands). 
In 2. S. Eustachius, with the hart (I give the 
names as here spelled). 
S. Panthaleon, in a red cloak. 
S. Jeorg, with the Dragon. 
S. Achatius, only head to be seen in red cap, 

and hand holding a hart's hora. 
S. Yeyt [Vitus], holding a cup with flame 

in it. 
S. Dyonisius, holding a second head in his 

hands. 
S. Erasmus, with his bowels wound round a 

roller. 
S. Nycla, with book and three golden bells* 
S. Gyles, with his stag. 
S. Lambert, with chains. 
S. Margaret, a very sweet face; the little 
dragon pceps outfrombehindS.Christopher. 
S. Christopher, leaning on tree ; our Loed 
as a naked child standing upright, a red 
cruciferous nimbus. 
S. Katherine, with sword, but no wheel. 
S. Barbara, with tower and chalice. 
These triptychs are as interesting as any that I 
have ever seen. They are in very good preservation, 



STTELL. 23 

and ought surely to be well copied while in so perfect 
a state. The chapel has a little octagonal spirelet. 

After dinner we continue our course along the same 
valley, to the not very interesting church of Mittern- 
doriF, entirelv Flambovant. It bas cbancel, ... i± , M 
nave, north transept, western tower. The 
apse is trigonal; its windows of three lights, trefoiled. 
Here again the vaulting is very elaborate. Tbe nave 
bas two bays ; tbe nartbex-gallery three frora north to 
south, one from east to west. The tower is much 
modernised. 

Evening gathered in. The great mountain Grim- 
ming raised himself higher and higher, the shepherd's 
call, the goat-bell, the mill-wheel died off into silence"; 
and it was almost dark, when, forcing our way through 
the great pass, where rocks and hills were on this side 
and on that, we čame out in the green valley of the 
Enns. It is too dark to notice the country, — we drop 
off to sleep, and rouse ourselves as the carriage draws 
up at Steinach. 

I remember the Post there as a genuine mountain- 
inn with true Austrian kindness to make our fare, — 
eggs and fish, doubly pleasant. We are early on our 
way again ; and the first church which we reach is 
Lietzen. Apse, nave, western tower, for 
there is no constructional chancel. The 
apse trigonal, the windows of two trefoiled lights 
with a trefoil in head. I am inclined to believe 
these, and consequently the church — notwithstanding 
a certain laxity of mouldings, — Middle pointed. Ali 
the other windows are gutted. The nave has three 
bays ; the vaulting is very elaborate. There is a plain 



24 STTBIA. 

westera door, and a large ogee-arched benatura by its 
Bide. 

Through the valley, nov winding between lesa abrupt 
mountains, we reach Jtottenmann ; one of 
the cburcbes which owes their foundation 
to tbe great iron forges belonging to the Monks of 
Admont. Apse, transept, nave, western tower, porch 
west of that. Apse, trigonal ; central window, tbree 
lights ; side ligbts unfoliated ; central light trefoiled ; 
north window, two plain lights ; south as central, only 
an ogee transom bisects it. Tbe whole seems Middle- 
pointed. The vaulting is here again ratber elaborate, 
Windows in transepts, north and south, as central 
one in apse, There is a little south chapel in the 
nave, by tbe tower, witb one lancet. The narthex- 
gallery bas four bays, north and south ; two east 
and west. The staircase has its original single light. 
The tower, of four stages, quite plain ; belfry windows 
of two lights, The western porch has a parvise ; its 
window, of three lights, has the central cinqfoiled, 
This is a quaint, rather than interesting church. 

On by a good road, without much scenery, 
tbough at one part we reach an elevation of 5,000 
feet. "VVe take Geishom, a very poor church. 
Chancel, nave, west tower. The chancel 
inodernised; the nave of two bays ; tower, four stages, 
with tiled stringcourses, then pyramidal headed. This 
day, oonsidering the character of Austrian posting, 
we made a capital journey — sixty-one miles — and 
reacbed the picturesque town of Leoben about dusk, 
We slept at the Goldner Adler, in tbe greafc square, — 
a very fair innt 



flrouji. 25 

Next morning, crossing the Mur, to the church of 
S. Marta am JVogen. It has chancel, 
nave, north chapel to the former, and g ^J^ 
narthex-gallery. The whole is of Flam- 
bovant date. The apse, pentagonal; the central 
window, blocked ; the pair north and south of it 
of three, the next pair of two, trefoiled lights. There is 
some fair stained glass, principally from our blessed 
Lobd's Life. The entrance to the north chapel is by a 
door of verj good moulding, the arch very much 
depreased. The nave, of four bays ; the fifth being 
taken up by the gallery. The first three had, originally, 
on each side a Flambovant window of three trefoiled 
lights. The gallerv, which slightlj projects beyond 
its own baj, has two bays from east to west, three 
frora north to south : the mouldings and piers are 
very excellent. The panelling in front of the upper 
part is remarkable, — an arcade of twelve tre- 
foiled lights, and thoroughlv " Perpendicular." 
You would take it for a bit of English panelling. 
This church, though without aisles, is larger than ' 
most, even town churches. It is beset with pews, 
mostly doored pews. 

Outside there is a western lean-to narthex, almost 
past the furthest bounds which even courtesy can assign 
to Plamboyant. The tower, which is engaged, and 
at the west end of the nave, is modern. I observed 
bere, about 10 a.m., a great number of people praving 
by the graves of their relatives. The churchyard wall 
is arcaded : a good deal of sculpfcure, from scriptural 
and other subjects, some of it coloured, is intro« 
duced. 



26 STTEIA. 

Two other churches which we saw here, one the 
Franciscan, the other, on the hill, but of which I 
could not learn the dedication, are valueless. 

We then hired a conveyance for the railway at 

Bruck. The road, running along the north bank of 

the Mur, is always pleasing, in some parts highly 

romantic; much of the beauty was lost to us by 

•»r. * , , * continuous wet weather. Michelsdorf 
Michelsdorff. ±1.11.1. mu- 1. 

was the only church we saw. This has 

chancel, nave, and engaged western tower. The 

chancel is only the trigonal apse; the windows are 

modemised. The nave has three bays, with elaborate 

vaulting, but the windows are entirely modem. There 

is no narthex gallerv. I have no note of the tower. 

Now on to Bruck-an-der-Mur. I never remember 

more pouring weather. We only saw the church 

which lies nearest to the railway station, though on 

the other side of the Mur : this is the Minorites* . It 

has chancel, nave, north chapel, but, 
Mlnoritcs'? accor( luig to the frequent practice of that 

order, no tower. The apse is pentagonal. 
A great gutted lancet occupies each side ; these might 
have been, and I rather fancy were, two-light Middle- 
pointed windows. The chancel, of two bays,is singularly 
excellent; in each bay on both sides, is a Middle- 
pointed window of two trefoiled lights — a circle in 
head ; the mouldings very delicate. T^he vaulting is 
simply cross, the vaulting shafts and corbels are very 
pretty. The nave is utterly ruined by " restoration." 
There is a modem gallery, no doubt replacing the 
narthex gallery. The cloisters, on the south side, are 
also modemised. 



STTEIA. 27 

The railway to Gratz runs through the most glorious 
scenery , — so say the books, — but to us it was merely fog 
and rain. "We did not see a hundred yards before us, 
tili we found ourselves comfortablv settled in the 
Elephant, a very fair inn, decorated with the figure of 
that animal, of life-like siže, on the stable wall. 

Gratz is like a little Vienna, — from the city itself 
being of confined dimensions, and separated from 
the suburbs by the fortifications, now planted, and 
places of public recreation. The former citadel, the 
centre of ali, is near the Schlossberg, a steep hill on 
the north of fcbe river, whence you enjoy a fine view of 
the whole neighbourhood. Commencing from the 
east, you see the Jakomini Vorstadt ; casting your 
eye over the river, you have the Gries, the Cailan, — 
then south-east, the parish of S. Andrew, — then 
S. Elizabeth, S. George, the Maria Hilf, — which brings 
us to the south-west ; again crossing the river, the 
Graben, — then, north-west, the high hill called the 
Bosenberg, — the suburbs of Unten-and Ober-Gey- 
dorf, — then north, the Morelerfeld — and so round by 
the Miinzgraben to the Jakomini, whence we set 
out. 

While we štand on this same Schlossberg, we may 
as well hear a little of the early history of Gratz, 
now a city of 65,000 inhabitants, and the capital of 
Styria. The first time the name occurs is in a deed 
of October 14* 881, in which King Louis changes 
with the Archbishop Dietman, certain lands at Maul- 
stadt against certain others in Gratz. From that 
time onwards, we find it spelt Graetz, Graz, Gretz, 
Grez, Gratz, or Graz. But since 1843, through the 



28 flTTEU- 

efforts of tbelearned native, VonHammerPurgstall,the 
last-mentioned way has prevailed. In 1163, we find 
the place a town of some importance ; but not tili 
1435 was it completely fortified. The Turk-storm 
burst over Styria in 1532, under Ibrahim Pacha, but 
Graz stood firm. In 1807, the French destrojed 
the citadel, — and thence čame the hill where we štand. 
Lutheranism made a great but unsuccessful struggle 
for this place, — and at present, the Protestanta, 
though they have a chapel, are a very inconsiderable 
body. 

Mow we go down to the Cathedral. 

Cathedral Jt is P laced weil » on a ^eight, just 
of S. Gileg, opposite the Universitj. On the ground 
raz# where it now stands, was built, in 1157, 
the S. Egidikirchlein ; in 1450, Frederick IV, 
Burnamed the Powerful, began the present erec- 
tion, — and the main atructure was finished in 
1462. It now conskts of chancel, nave with 
aisles, and north and south chapels ; weatern 
tower. The centre length is 256 feet ; breadth, 120 ; 
height (they say, but I can hardly credit it), 118. 
The apse is trigonal ; each side has a Flamboyant 
window of three trefoiled lights. The high altar, 
of red flaked marble, has a tolerable painting of 
S. Giles, by Joseph Flurer, a scholar of Salvator Eosa. 
The stained glass in the eastern windows is esecrable. 
On the north side is the Imperial Eoyal Chapel ; a 
very elegant projecting stone gallerj, rather frittered 
away, however, by over decoration; amidst much trash, 
there is a very interesting wall-painting of our Lobd 
on the Cross, on a gold ground (1475) surrounded by 



0TTBIA, 29 

warriors anđ priests. The chancel has foiir and a 
half bays ; the vaulting is more elaborate than beauti- 
ful. On the epistle side of the altar is a.curious ex 
voto of one Peter de Poinds (+ at Graz, 1633), 
Chamberlain of Charles II, the crucifi* surrounded 
by kneeling figures representing his master's ehildren, 
The bodies of SS. Masentius and Vincentius rest here, 
— on the opposite side, therelics of the Virgin Martyr 
Masentia. 

The nave has five bays, — the arches are decidedly 
poor. The piers themselves consist of four shafts, 
set on angularly, — the caps and bases octagonal, 
There is no triforium nor clerestory. The north and 
south aisles have in the 1, 2, 4, 5, bays, — a window 
of three trefoiled lights, with three trefoils in head ; — 
I should have taken them for Middle-pointed, with 
inferior tracery, had I not already known the date of 
the church. The third bays on each side are occupied 
by the chapels ; these date from abont 1510, but have 
been thoroughly spoilt. The west door is curious, 
It contains the arms of Portugal, — the Princess 
Eleonora, of that kingdom, having married Frederick 
IV, — under this the Stvrian Panther,— then the 
Austrian arms, with the Eounder's well-known device, 
A. E. I. O. U. The tower is very poor and ugly ; the 
old one was nearly pulled down in 1651, — and the 
present copper thing was set up in 1663. 

Graz ean only reckon in the fourth class of cathe- 
drals — with Bangor and the like, — and is certainly 
yery uninteresting. It was foimded too late to in- 
fluence Stvrian architecture, with which indeed it ha« 
rery Mttle in common, I must not, however, forget 



30 STTBIJL. 

to mentionthat there is an original narthex-gallery, 
though now mucli modernised. 

A little to the south of the cathedral is the mauso- 
leum of the Emperor Ferdinand. Ecclesiologicallv, 
it has nothing interesting — a classical erection : 
in shape, a Latin cross, — replacing an old chapel of 
S. Katherine's, to which Saint the present sepulchral 
tomb is dedicated. The chronogram which marks 
the date is 

ferDInanDVs seCVnDVs ple VIXIt, ple obllt. 
that is 1637. 

Besides this — Catholic hero, or infernal fiend — as 
you read the historians and poets of the Church, or 
those of its Lutheran enemy, several other merabers of 
the Imperial B»oyal family are here interred, but none 
of great interest, except the late Archduke JohD, the 
benefactor of Styria, who died the year before last. 
His memory is in benediction in every village and 
mountain farm of his dear Steiermark ; and never had 
any man a happier domestic life than he with his 
beloved peasant bride, the daughter of the postmaster 
at Aussee. She was exceedingly lovely ; but, to his 
eternal honour be it said, the Archduke never spoke 
word of love to the country girl, tili he offered her 
left-handed marriage. Not an upland farm but he 
had visited, not a promising lode of iron but he was 
called in to examine it : a firstrate marksman, an 
unwearied fisherman : a most scientific miner; the 
monument that Styria is about to raise to him will be 
raised by the very heart of her peasantry. His prin- 
cipal amusement was chamois-hunting, and as a 
mountaineer, even at a late period of life, he was ex- 



STTHIA. 31 

celled by few. I once saw him at Prague, in the 
year 1851 ; and the kind, yet acute, face, was just 
what I should have eipected. Not a church, not a 
school, was built in Stvria, but his purse was largely 
drawn on ; not a farmer had Yainly invoked S. Florian 
against fire, not a cottager had lost his cow, but the 
" good Archduke" was a safe resource. Sit anima mea 
cum illo ! 

Hence I went to the Universitv, built 1573-1609* 
lt is an unseemhr quadraugle ot* brick and stone. 
Great as has been the kindness I have always received 
in foreign libraries, that which I here eiperienced 
surpasseti them ali. " Name your own time, Sir," 
said the First Librarian, " for to-morrow, and I will 
give you two clever undergraduates to wait on you, 
and to bring vou wliat books you want." I spent 
nearly a day in that cinquecento room, and the hearti- 
ness with which the young men threvr themselves 
into my pursuits, and the courtesy with which they 
seemed rather to be receiving than bestowing a 
favour, I shall never forget. The library contains 
42,000 volumes (of which 3,500 are Incunabula) and 
7,500 MSS. 

Another church which I saw was the 
JPfarrkirche. This was commenced in p^j**^ 
1466. It has chancel, nave, north aisle, 
and double south aisle to the latter, with modem 
westerntowerfacade. The apse, apparently an imita- 
tion of that of the cathedral, is trigonal : each side has 
a window of three trefoiled lights. The chancel, in 
four bavs, has elaborate vaulting. The north side is — 
now at least — blank ; its south side has three windows 



32 BTTEIA. 

of three trefoiled lights. The whole choir is wretcbedly 
modernised. The chancel arch is identical with the 
vaulting — *no cap or base to the piers. The nave haa 
five bays — the westernmost beiug occupied by the 
narthex gallery. The piers, octagonal, with octagonal 
cap and base : in England I should have put them 
very early in the fifteenth centurv ; the vaulting shafts 
have no cap. The open seats are arabesque ; as early 
an example of these fistures as I have seen on the con- 
tinent. The narthex gallery, now modernised, had five 
baya from north to south, and two from east to west. 
Here we again get a dodecagonal font, the sides are 
slightly concave ; the cover arabesque. The second 
south arch is lower than the other ; it cannot be earlier 
than the beginning of the siiteenth century; the 
vaulting is curiously elaborate, 

q t&z The Franciscaner Kirche (Maria Him- 

Franciscanermel-fahrt) is said to have been finished in 
Kirche * 1240. Chancel, nave, two aisles to the 
lafcter, modem west tower. The apse is trigonal ; each 
side has two Middle-pointed windows of three lights, 
with good early tracery. The choir, of five bays, had 
originally in each bay a window of three trefoiled 
lights, with eicellent tracery. The vaulting is merely 
cross. The chancel, higher than the nave. The nave, 
though the books say nothing about it, must have 
been rebuilfc about the fifteenth century. Of four 
bays the piers are octagonal, with octagonal bases, but 
without cap. The vaulting is extremely elaborate, 
but much more acute than that of this date is 
usually. The narthex-gallery remains \ but is mo- 
dernised. The tower (1639-1642), the highest in the 
city, is said to reach an elevation of 210 feet. 



8TTEIA. 33 

Hence to the Ursulerinen, an erection « 
« Graz, 

of 1686. While waiting before the grill Ureuliner- 

for the keys (the church, for it was about kirc^e. 

noon, happened to be shut), the Assistant Superior 

(I beliere) entered into conversation with me on the 

never-failing subject, sisterhoods in England. JSs 

ist nicht zu schon, unsere Kleidtmg ? she asked of 

their own religious habit. Having always felt that 

the Ursuline was one of the ugliest of habits, I could 

only remark that the dress was of very little conse- 

quence compared with the good deeds done in the 

dresa. " JJnd das auch wahr ist" she said. — The church 

is utterly vorthless. There is a very offensive wax 

figure of 8, Vmcentia, one of the 11,000. 

We then went to the Franciscan House. The 
buildings are worth nothing. The kindness and 
courtesy we experienced were really touching. There 
are here eight brofchers and fifteen fathers. The cloisters, 
which, if not beautiful, are ali well contrived, are hung 
with the beatified saints of the order ; many, whose 
names are less known to the universal church. The 
library contains 14,000 volumes ; but the collection 
of 12mo. and 18mo. breviaries of the sixteenth and 
seventeenth centuries I never saw equalled. Here 
again, the same eagerness to show me, or rather to an- 
ticipate, what I vanted. The church was built in 
1600-1602. The high altar, our conductor told us, was 
erected on a foundation made by the ashes of 10,000 
Protestant books. 

Lastly, — and concluding a good day's work — to the 
Barmherzige Briider, the Brothers of Mercy. A 
yery interesting institution it is ; but the idea occurs 

Đ 



34 8TTSIA. 

everj where. How much betterwomen manage these 
things! There are twenty-three laj brothers, and 
one Priest, who is the Prior. The latter took us, 
vith the greatest kindness, over every part of the 
building. The dresa is a plain black cassock. Their 
largest infirmarj contains fifty beds, — it was very 
clean, but so very close ! They can, I believe, 
aocommodate from 120 to 150 : men, of course, only. 
The besfc arranged part was the dispensarj, which 
was crowded with poor applicants. To me it was 
singularlj touching to see the cracifii plaeed in a 
most prominent position before the dentist's chair. 
"We made some Uttle offering to the House, — on 
which the Prior took us in to pray before the Blessed 
Sacrament, in a small distinct oratorj. These brethren 
quite took my heart, — though I still thmk that they, 
in their peculiar work, fali far short of Sistera of Mercy. 
The institution was founded by Marimilian of Styria 
(of whom there is a good portrait) in 1612 ; there 
is a list of the Priora from that time : the first čame 
from Bome. My last hour in Graz was spent in the 
gardens of this house, and in discussing divers eccle- 
siastical questions with the Prior. "We shall meet 
in Heaven," said he, when we parted. 

And now on again by the ereeping train. The 
eipress used to run from Tienna to Trieste in about 
sixteen hours; the time now is twenty-four! The 
seenery, affeer paasing Graz, is at first pretty ; it then 
becomes dull, as you toil across the great Leibnitaer 
!Peld, the only large plain in Styria; but is again 
most striking in the cut through the Windi8ch 
Buheln hills, whereour old fidend the Mur, which 



BTTKIA. 35 

has been our constant companion since Leoben, takes 
an eastward course, and leaves us to go into Hungary. 
We reacb Marburg at half-past eight, on a glorious 
moonlight night, and find tolerably coinfortable 
ouarters at the Stadt Wien. Here, for the only 
time, I saw Austrian Priests plaving at billiards in a 
coffee room. A stroll through tbe city showed us a 
tolerable !Flamboyant cbapel, — and tbe so-called Dom 
(not tbat it is really so), — a building somewbat re- 
sembling tbe cathedral at Graz. Here, very early 
next morning, we attended mas8, and saw two large 
scbools marched off in procession to some festival in 
one of tbe villages near. Tbe dresa of tbe women, a 
bandkercbief worn turban- wise, is very ugly ; and the 
strong Vendisb pronunciation reminds us tbat we 
are approaching Slavonic regkms^ Marburg is not 
an interesting place,. — tbe population about 4,500 ; 
it is tbe second town in Stvria. We leave by railway 
at eigbt. 

Erom Marburg to Cilly, the soenery is tremendously 
grand; fortymiles,I sbould think, of unequalled railway 
travelling. You plunge through mountain spurs, across 
ravines, over torrents, ali ramifying from the great 
Oistra-Spitze, which belongs equally to Stvria, Cariu- 
thia, and Garniola, and which presently liffcs itself up 
to a heigbt of 7,500 feet, on our right. The moment 
we enter Carniola, and slide down the desolate valley 
of tbe Sann, beauty vanishes : — tbe nezt stations are 
desolation themselves. At Lavbach, wbere we dine, 
tbe scenery improves a little ; for the present we pass 
Adelsburg without stopping, — and soon get into tbat 
horrid limestone wilderness, the Karat. AH is bleak- 

2) 2 



36 STTEIA. 

ness, barrenne8S, utter desolation, wilđneB8 without 
sublimity ; white circular cavems, by the rail-side, 
tilled as fields. Evening comes on ; a north-easterly 
wind, and a cloudj sky, make Frestranek station 
gloominess itself. Our spirits go down to zero. 
Presently, — it was twelve minutes past seven, — by a 
change as from death to life, the blue Adriatic bursts 
on your sight, 700 feet below you, — the train running 
parallel to it. There, stretching away into the purple 
distance, is Italy, — there, across the bay, that must 
be Istria ; the last rays of the sun fali on the white 
houses of Capo d' Istria. 01ive-yards, cherry-yards, 
vineyards, orchards, maize fields, wheat, barley, terrace 
up the steep descent to the Adriatic ; the train, 
down that huge incline, speeds faster and faster; 
every moment the Karst shelters you better and 
better ; you forget the weariness of the long journey in 
the glory of your first Italian evening. The sun sets 
behind — where Venice must be. The Adriatic dies 
into purple, into blue, into grey. The shrill whistle, 
and the diminished distance of the sea, teli us that 
we are coming in ; we slacken speed, — and find our- 
selves in the great station of Trieste. 



37 



Chapteb III. 
TRIESTE AND AQUILEIA. 

Etebt one must be struck by the marvellous solidity 
and grandeur of the new part of Trieste. As we 
walked in the bright moonlight through the Piazza 
della Dogana, and that del Fonte Bosse, and that della 
Borsa, nezt to the palaces of the merchant princes, the 
huge limestone slabs with which the streets are paved, 
seemed most strange to an English eye. We took up 
our quarters in the Hotel de la Ville ; an eicellent 
hotel. It is not particularlj cheap, but every luxury 
you can desire may be had ; and the cleanliness and 
civility > and honest endeavours to make you comfort- 
able, cause me to entertain the kindest remembrances 
of this place, where I spent six nights. It lies oppo- 
site the quay, between the Molo de Sale, and that 
de S. Carlo. 

We reached the city on Saturday night, and were 
roused next morning by the clang of some near bells. 
On inquiry, we found them to come from the Greek 
church, which štanda close to the hotel, on the quay, 
and is easily distinguishable by its green domes. It is 
a handsome classical building' in its way ; and this is 
its history. TJp to 1752, the Ghreeks in Trieste had 
been content to worship in the Slavonic church, of 
which more ppesently. In that year, feeling their in- 



38 TEIESTE AJSTD AQUILEIA. 

creasing importance, they hired a house, where they 
assembled tili 1786. They then commenced the pre- 
sent church, dedicated to S. Nicolas, though it was 
not finished tili 1819, from the designa of M. Pertsch. 
The new communion refused from the beginning to re- 
cognise the authority of the Metropolitan of Caristadt, 
and is now immediatelj subject to the Patriarch of 
Constantinople. The congregation was good, and 
apparently, for the most part, of the upper classes. 
The beauty of the women was very striking. My 
companion had never before attended at an Eastern 
liturgy, and his admiration must have been very grati- 
fjing to the priests, who afterwards čame to make our 
acquaintance. 

The Slavonic church dates from 1751. It has 
nothing ecclesiogically remarkable. 

I am not about to write a description of Trieste ; and 
shall confine myself to its one ecclesiological curiosity, 
the Cathedral of S. Justus. I am bound, however, to 
ezpress my warmest thanks to our excellent consul, 
Charles Baven, Esq., for the unwearied assistance he 
gave us in carrying out our plans ; and more espe- 
cially in forwarding our letters while we were in Dal- 
matia and Montenegro. 

The cathedral štanda on an abrupthill above theold 
city. It is scarcelj possible to describe its present con- 
dition, without entering first into its history. 

On the temple of Capitoline Jove, it would seem 
that, in the fourth century (say the Tergestine anti- 
quarians) a Basilic was erected, part of which still 
exi8ts. 

Of thia church remain,— 



TUB8T1 AKD AQVILKIA. 39 

The Apse ; 
TheBaptisterj; 
The central part of tho Nave ; 
And — though not so early — the mosaics. 
In the siith or serenth centurj, another church waa 
built close to this, for the relics of the patron saints ; 
this was cruciform, with central dome. 
Of this church remain, — 
The Apse ; 
Part of the Nave ; 
A small part of the Transept. 
About 1300, these two churches were thrown into 
one; hence the irregular and bizarre appearance of the 
present builing. I proceed to describe it: 
It has Chancel ; 
Kave; 

Double aisles on each side ; 
Tower at the west end of the north aisle. 
The chancel apse is circular, and much modernised; 
it has now a cupola. The choir has three bays. The 
piers are grey marble, streaked white ; they are cir- 
cular, have circular base on square plinth, square 
caps, something like our Eomanesque harp capa. The 
easternmost arch is lower than the others. 

The choir piers are distinguished from the nave piers 
by being raised on a soleas-step. 

The mosaic represents our Lady with the Divini 
Child, in attitude of benediction; two angels adore. 

The south aisle, that is, the second church, has an 
apsidal east end. In the centre is our Lobd with blue 
mantle and cruciferous nimbus, with open book ; on 
the right S. John, on the left, S. Servulus. The altar 



40 TEIESTE AITD AQDILEIA. 

below appears one of great devotion. While taking 
some notes onaSunday afternoon, I observed crowds of 
women go up to it, say a collect, kiss the figurea of the 
saint, and retire. The apse arch is very remarkable. 

Between the nave and the aisles there are eight 
arches, like those in the choir. Those on the south 
of the nave have the most decidedlv Corinthian caps. 
The roof of the nave has the usual basilican tie. The 
south aisle is flat ceiled ; the north aisle flat boarded. 
The pulpit is apparently modem, but stonej perhaps 
the remains of an ambon. 

Over the Corinthianising caps south of the south 
aisle is the second cap, which we may call the Baven- 
nat, and which I shall have occasion again to notice 
at Parenzo. 

Outside the north wall of the nave, are four very 
ancient clerestory windows, with cireular head, north 
of the north aisle. 

At the east end of the south nave aisle, where the 
cross-arch separates it from the north chancel aisle, 
above that arch, on the western face, is a deeply sunk 
circular-headed arcade of four. The modernised chapel 
of S. Charles, originally nomed from S. Catherine of 
Sienna, was erected by Pius II, who had been bishop 
of Trieste. 

At the east end of the ezterior south aisle is the 
tomb of Don Carlos. 

In the western facade is a double rose, twelve-foiled 
internally, twenty-four foiled externally; no doubt 
added when the two churches were thrown into one. 

The tower has some few remains of the original 
heathen temple ; its elevation as a campanile seems to 



TBIESTB AOT AQFILHIA. 41 

have taken place about 1000. It had, in the middie 
ages, a vast wooden spire, long since destroved by 
lightning. It served as a fortification, and held some 
small cannon as late as 1807. 

The vestern door is made of a Eoman monument 
cut in half. 

This is as minute a description as I am able to give 
of a church, as difficult to describe as perhaps any I 
have ever seen. I now proceed witk our tour. 

There are few places which I have so earnestlv longed 
to see as Aquileia ; and when at length early in the 
month of May, we found ourselves in a capital barouche 
behind two excellent horses, the idea of thus visiting 
a church city, which seemed a mere eiiatence of the 
past, had something so singular and inappropriate, 
as to seem an ecclesiastical joke. As at the octroi 
our driver gave out his destination, the whole ar- 
rangement produced the same effect in my mind as if 
S. Augustine had asked me to have a bottle of soda- 
water, or S. Jerome to procure for him a third-class 
ticket. But it was a lovely morning ; the roads were 
eicellent ; the country glorious ; and we set off in high 
spirits. 

Our road, for some miles, ran parallel to the Vienna 
Eailway, and gradually rose. The views, through the 
wood, of the Adriatic to our left, were lovely — one 
such glimpse I especially remember, through a plan- 
tation of almonds. Our first church was Frosecco — a 
village that gives its name to an eicellent 
light wine. A tablet tells us that it was 
commenced in 1637, and consecrated per manus 
Antonu Marentii y JEpiscopi Petenmni, June k, 1641. 



42 TEIE8TE JlCTD AQUTLEIA. 

There is nothing whatever of interest. The tower is 
8quare, with double belfry windows, and octagonal 
stone spire. 

Still keeping along the coast, in a few miles we 
cross the TimavuB, and endeavour to get up a little 
classical enthusiasm. My companion is asleep: I 
wake him with 

Antenor potuit, mediis elapsus Achivis, 
Illyricos penetrare sinus, atque intima tntus 
Regna Libnrnornm, et fontem superare Timavi : 
Unde per ora novem vasto cum murmure montis 
It mare proruptum et pelago premit arva sonanti. 

JEn. i. 242. 

"Hoc tatnen flumen obscurum hodie esse rivulum 
perhibent," says the Delphin commentator. By no 
means : it is a very respectable river ; although its 
course from the hills, which shut out oup view of the 
north, down to the sea, is not much more than a mile. 
But then, in ali probability, after the manner of 
Carniolian rivers, Timavus has already run a con- 
siderable course on the other side of the hills, and 
this is only its second appearance. 

But much more interesting to me is the appearance 
of a tolerable church close to our road ; we stop, and 
find it to be Duino, otherwise 8. Giovmni It has 

_ . chancel, nave, south tower; the whole 

Flamboyant. The apse istrigonal; win- 
dows of two light8 trefoiled ; poor tracery. Chancel, 
three bays : a winđow (apparently) originally in each, 
of three trefoiled lights, with clumsy tracery ; only 
one, on south side, remains. 

Sedilia, broad ; circular aroh cinqfoiled ; good. 



TBntSTS AKĐ AQTTILXIA. 43 

Vaulting of chancel eurious ; half claseical. Ez- 
ecrable waU-painting ; curtains with tassels. 

Nave, very broad ; low wooden roof, with tie beam. 

On nortb, no windowB. On south, two, of three 
trefoiled lighta. At the west end, a small rose of 
eight leaves. 

There are only a few open seats towards the west 
end. 

The tower is tali, thin, with two adjacent belfry 
windowe ; over tbis an octagonal lantern, surmounted 
by an octagonal spire. Over west door, 1519 ; whicb 
is the date of the whole church. 

I copied two monumenta : — 

Nobilis vir Jeorgis Reichenbnrg, 1530; in fešto 
S. Andre©, Ap. et Mart. 

And 

Hs&c requies B. Đ. Joh. Bapt. Marciul, parochi et Archidinconi 
S. Joannis, 1687. 

Ontwo stones behind the altar is this inscription : — 

Ossa beatorum stmt hic inclusa piorum, 
Baptist« Christi, simul alteriasque Johannis. 
Hio sunt conjuncti meritis et munere digni 
Stephanus et Blasius : nec non Georgius almus : 
Atque* manufortis Laurentius additur illis. 
Hos hic Germani quondam sollertia clari 

# The poet is referring to the Sequence on S. Laurence, whieh 



Laurenti, David magni Martvr, milesque fortis, 
Tu imperatoris tribunal, 
Ta manus tortorum crnentas 
Sprevisti, secutus desiderabilem, atque manufortem. 
Manufortis is the mediseval ezplanation of David, as typically 
attributed to our Blessed Lobd. 



44 TEIE8TB AKĐ AQTJILEIA. 

Hungaricum regem formiđans valde farentem, 
Jusserat absoondi magno studioque reoondi. 
Sic per quingentos vel forsitan amplius annos, 
Non potuit sciri faerint qua parte locata. 
Sed Udalrici Patris omnipotentis amici 
Pontiticis summi lenta nimiumque benigni, 
Per lacrymas multas, qaas Christo fudit ad aras, 
Atque per immensos studuit qna pasoeret urbes, 
Tempore sunt oesa Sanctorins jure reperta. 
Qui sanctoB coluit, se sicque colendo locavit, 
Quod jam com sanctis maneat šibi vita perennis. 

An hour more and we enter the little town of Mon- 
M nf 1 falcone. The ehurch is utterly worthless. 
* The jolly landlord of the Leone d* Oro offers 
himself as our companion to Aquileia, promising to be 
our guide to its curiosities. Our driver assents. Our 
new friend's very pretty wife talka a little Slavonic 
with me while her husband prepares himself for his ex- 
pedition. We order coffee and a fowl against our 
return. In three or four miles we reach Beglicmo. 

The church is modem. And now we come to a 
thick' wood. The ground, however, is a complete beach 
of pebbles. An odd effect — the deep foliage above, the 
stoney waste below. Presently we see before us a 
milkwhite stream. It is the Isonza — here as broad as 
the Thames at Twickenham. A horse feny carries 
us across ; and now, our driver says, we are nearly in. 
Presently thetalltowerof — yes ! itis really AquUeia ! — 
shows itself a little to our left. We get on at our 
best pače through Fiumicello, and at last drew up at 
the Leone d* Oro in Aquileia itself. 

And now to the cathedral. But before we go 
thither, let me remind the reader of the general 
outline of the ecclesiastical historj of Aquileia, 



TEIESTE AND AQTHLEIA. 45 

The Gkmpel is said to have been preached here by 
S. Mark. His disciple, S. Hermachoras, was the first 
bishop. In the Aquileian Missal* he is celebrated on 
J?ebruary 12, "vrith a proper sequence, which com- 
mences : — 

Plebs fidelis Hermachorae 
Gratnletur in honore : 
De quo Marci successore 
Gaudet Aquile'ia. 

Seven bishops succeeded him ; the line of archbishops 
commenced with S. Valerianus in A.D. 369. After 
the fifth (Ecumenical Council, Aquileia put itself at the 
head of the malcontents, and its prelates, taking the 
title of Patriarch, commenced a schism which lasted 
141 years. Paulinus, A.D. 557, was the first of 
these; he had ten successors. Peter I, in 698, 
returned to the Communion of the Church, and was 
allowed to retain the Patriarch title, which the schis- 
matics had assumed. 

But in the meanwhile, as a make-weight against 
the schismatical church, Građo had been raised, in 
607, to the Patriarchate, — ^and sixty-nine prelates sat 
in that see tili 1450, when it was transferred to 
Venice. Sixty-four catholic Patriarchs sat at Aquileia, 
— the last, Daniel, of Delfino, died in 1751. On this 
the Patriarchate was divided into the archbishoprics 
of Gorz, and that of TJdine. Botb had sundry 
changes. 

Gorz had two archbishops ; tben two bisbops, — the 
last of these took the title of Metropolitan of the 

* Venetiis, ex officina Gregorii de Gregorius, 1519. 



46 TEIESTI AOTD AQUILEIA. 

kingdom of IUyria, which his successor retains. 
TJdine had five archbishops ; was then reduced to a 
simple biflhopric, but again has arcbiepiscopal dignitv. 
The present cathedral was consecrated in the year 
1031, by the Patriarch Poppo, who sat from 1019 — 
1042, and possessed great influence with the Emperor 
Henry II. Two inscriptions remain with respect to 
this consecration. I will give them here, before pro- 
ceeding to describe the church. 

(Modem.) 

DEO DBI PILIO tTNIOO VIVO BT VBRO JfiStT ChRISTO BT BVM 
BEAT1SSIM.E <JENITBICI SEMPEB VIRGIN I ALMiE MARIJI 8UIS 
QUB SANCTI8 MARTTRIBU8 HERMAOHORJE PONI. BT FOBTTTNATO 
HUJUS SANCTI TEMPLI SAOERDOTI. 

(Ancient.) 

H ANNO DOMO^ IOARNATIOIS »XXXI INDICTIONE X III ID. 
JVL. PR£S1DB DOMIO JOHAN. XVIII PAPA VRBIS ROM-E IMPANTB 
OHOHRADO IMPATORB AVOVSTO IMPH SVI ANNO V 0ONSTRV0TV 
OONSECRATV B HOO TBHPLVM IN HONORE SOM DBI GENETRIOIS 
BT PPETV.E VIRGINI8 MARLfi 8CORQ MARTTR. HERMAOHORJE BT 
FORTVNATI A DNO POPONB VBNBRABILI PATRIAROHA AQVI- 
LBIBNS , PARITEBQVB ĐVOB ROMANI PONTIFIOATVS . VIDB- 
LIOBT JOANE 8TM ROMANB EOOLIE BPISCOPO OARDINAIiI . ET 
DODONB . 8.TE ROMANB . ECCLI~B . BPISCOPO . OARDINALI * 
ALISQ OOBPISOOPIS . SOILIOBT . ADALGERIO . TERGESTINO . 
IOHANNB . POLBNSI . WOLDALRI0O . PBTBNENT ; AZONB . CIVI- 
TATI8 . NOVB . PVODBBBRTO . 0ON0ORDIBN ; ROTHARIO . TAR- 
VISIANO . ATSTVLFO . PATAVINO . WODALRIOO . BRIXIANO . 
HBRMA .... BBLLVBNEN; RBGISONB . FBLTRBN . WODAL- 
RIOO . TRIDBNTINO . BT . HELMBOBRO . OENBNTBN J IN . DNO . 
FELICITER. 

EGO POPO HVIUS AQVILEIEN8IS BCOLBSI^ PATRIAROHA, VNA 
CVM DVOB. ROM. BPISOOPIS OARDINALIBVS, BT XII OOBPISOOPIS 
PRJS8IDENTE DOMINO IOANNB PAPA XIX BT IMPERATORE 0ON- 
RADO ATGUSTO, 0ONSB0RATI HOC TEMPLVM IN HONORBM 8. 
MABLE GERITRI0I8 DBI BT SANOTORVM MARTTRVM HERMAOORA 
BT FORTVNATI • OB CVIVS SOLBMNITATBM IDBM ROM. 8VM . 



TBISBTE AOT AQUILEIA. 47 

PONTIFEX DB GRATIA APOSTOLICA CONOESSIT INDVLGENTIAM 
C . ANNORVM, ET 0. DIERVM SINGVLIS ANNIS OMNIBVS VERE 
POSNITENTIBVS, ET CONFE8SIS ĐICTAH ECCLESIAM VISITANTIBVg 
OAVSA DEVOTIONIS, ET IN FEŠTO DICTORVM MABTTBVM HEB- 
UACOB.M ET POBTVNATI, ET PEB OCTAVAS EOBVM SINGVLIS 
DIEBVS XTIII ANNOBVM, ET TOTIDEM (JVADBANTENARVM . ITEM 
ĐICTI CARDINALE8 AVOTORITATE AP08TOLICA, OB BEVEBEN- 
TIAM 8 . QVIBINI MARTTBIS, QYI EIV8 CORPV8 POBTAVEBVNT 
DE VRBE, ET OONDIDERVNT A PARTE DEXTEBA IN ALTABI 
PABVO IVXTA ALTABE MAIVS, ET OB REVEBENTIAM B . H . 
PAP.E, ET CONFESSOBIS, CVIVS ETIAM 0OBPV8 DE VBBE POR- 
TA VEBVNT, ET COLLOCAVEBVNT A SINI8TRA IN ALTABI PARVO 
IVXTA HAIVS ALTABE CONCESSEBVNT INDVLOENTIAM X ANNO- 
BVM ET X QVADBAGENABVM TVM IN 8VPRADI0TIS SOLEMNI- 
TATIBVS, QVAM ETIAM IN FESTIVITATIBV8 

The names of the sees, mentioned in the second 
inscription, will be found explained in the next 
chapter but one. 

The minute description of the cathedral I leave for 
an appendix, by which time I hope to be able to 
present the reader with a ground plan of it, which has 
not yet reached me. 



48 



Chapteb IV. 
THE GLAGOLITA RITE. 

I have said that one cause of my tour was an earnest 
desire of examining for myself the Glagolita rite. 
It will be well that I should dwell on its nature and 
history in the first place, — the rather that I cannot 
entirely agree, either on the one hand with its Latin 
supporters, as Ginzel and Bercič,* nor on the other with 
its Greek opponents, as Dr. Pavsky. 

Every one knows that the gospel was first preached 
about the year 863, by S.S. Cyril and Methodius, in 
Moravia, under the auspices of the Emperor Michael 
III, and at the instance of the Princes Eostiloff and 
Sviatopolk. They, but chiefly S. Cyril, found the 
Slavonic a for med language, but invented an alphabet 
for it. — hence called the Cyrillic, — the same with that 
which we call Slavonic, and the parent of the modern 
Buss character. 

Into this language, and this character, they tran- 
slated the office books of the Eastem Church. It is 



* It will be well to inform the reader that, in Hlyrian,— 
s is soundeđ as English s. 
c „ „ „ U. 
8 „ „ „ sh. 
c „ „ „ tch. 


z 

V 

Z 


»> 
»i 


ft 
9% 


„ zh (French,;.) 



THE GLAGOLITA BITE. 49 

in vain that Ginzel,* to whose pages I must refer the 
reader, endeavours to show that the liturgv translated 
by these Apostles of the Slavonic tongue was the 
Latin; the argumenta of Dobroffsky and others must 
convince every unprejudiced person, what, indeed, 
common sense would seem to teach, that Oriental 
Missionaries introduced the Oriental rite. 

The rite then was Greek ; the language, Slavonic ; the 
character, Cvrillic.t But Cyril was soon taken from 
the scene of his labours. Called to Bome for certain 
explanations regarding his diocese, he there slept in 
the Lobd, February 14, 868. His friend and com- 
panion, Methodius, was then, by the Pope, raised to 
the dignitv of Archbishop of the Moravians, — and 
returning to his own province, he continued the good 
work with zeal. However, he had enemies, and their 
complaints ere long reached Bome. A brief, addressed 
by Pope John VIII to " Methodius, the most reverend 
Archbishop of the Pomeranian Church," and dated 
June 14, 879, accuses him, in the first place, of 
preaching doctrines not in accordance with those of 
the Roman Church ; and continues thus : — 

" We have heard, too, that you sing masses in a 
barbarous language, namely the Slavonian. Whence 
we have already, in our letters directed to you by Paul, 
Bishop of Ancona, prohibited you from solemnizing 
the rites of mass in that tongue ; but either in the 
Latin or the Greek, as the Church of God, dis- 
persed through the whole world, and spread abroad 

* Geschichte der Slawen Apostel Cyril u. Method. Leitmeritz, 
1857, pp. 107—112. 

f Ginzel deniee this : but see after. 

E 



50 THE GLAGOLITJL BITE. 

among ali nations, is wont to do. You may, however, 
employ that language in preaching or speaking to 
tbe people, since the Psalmist exhorts ali nations to 
praise Gk)D, and tbe Apostle would have every tongue 
confess that Jestts is Lord, to the glory of God the 
Fatheb." The archbishop is, therefore, commanded 
to come to Rome, — and a Papal letter of the same 
date, to Sviatopluk, Duke of Moravia, gives a similar 
requisition. Aecordingiy, Methodius went to Eome. 

In the following June (880), the Pope had changed 
his opinion. ¥e have a letter of that date, addressed 
to Sviatopluk, oontaining the highest praises of Me- 
thodius. The Pontiff informs that Prinee, that he 
had, as reauested, consecrated one Victrin to be Bishop 
of Nitria in Moravia, and was ready to consecrate a 
third when asked, so that the eanonical number re- 
quired for keeping up the apostolic succession might 
be furnished by Moravia itself. And then he con- 
tinues,— and this is the part with irhich we are more 
especially concerned : — 

" As to the Slavonic letters invented by Constantine 
the Philosopher, in which the praises of God rightly 
resound, we highly comroend them ; and we exhort 
that, in the same language, the doctrine and works of 
Ghbist our Lobd shall still be set forth. For Holy 
Scripture commands us to giorify God, not in three 
tongues only, but in ali languages ; as it is written "O 
praise the Lobd, ali ye heathen : laud Him, ali ye 
people." ***** Nor does it in any way 
affect the sacred doctrine, and the true faith, to sing 
masses in the same Slavonic tongue, or to read the 



TD GLAGOLIT1. BITI. 51 

Sacred Gospel and the Divine lection of the Old and 
New Testament, or to render the other offices in that 
tongue, 8o tbey be well translated and interpreted ; 
seeing that He Who created the three principai lan- 
guages, that is to say, Hebrew, Greek, and Latin, 
created also ali others to His honour and glory. 
Nevertheleas, we direct, that, in ali the churches of 
your realm, for the greater deeencj, the Gospel be 
first read in Latin, and tben translated in Slavonic in 
tbe ears of the people, who understand not the Latin 
tongue ; as we hear is alreadj done in some places. 
And shoold it be more agreeable to you and to your 
jadges, you are at liberty to hear mass in the Latin 
tongue alone. 

Methodius died the death of the righteous in 885, 
—and I am not now concerned to pursue furtber 
the history of the Moravian Church. We tura to 
our more immediate subject. 

The South-WesternSlsTs were the first of that familj 
to receive the GospeL In the serenth centurj, the 
Servs, Croatians, Dalmatians, and Istrians, had in 
large numbers, under their Prince Paga,* giren tbeir 
names to Christ. The destruetion of Kal/ma by 
heathen Slavs, in a.d. 699, rendered Pope John IV, 
(639—641), himself a nattre of Balona, ali the more 
eager for the erangelization of bis native land $ arid 
when that good Pontiff was taken from the irorld, 
his successor continued anxious for the sueees* of th*$ 
holy scheme. Martin I f 640— 663), raised tlvi tmr 
city Spalato, rising as it were from tbe ruins of 



12 



52 THE GLAGOLITA BITE. 

Salona, to an archiepiscopate. Henceforward the 
Latin rite took firm hold of Dalmatia. 

But wben Basil (867 — 896), in the time when 
Cyril and Methodius had commenced their holy war- 
fare, nad ascended, himself a Slav, the Byzantine 
Throne, he naturally wished tbat the Oriental rite 
should prevail in Dalmatia, and hence arose a vigorous 
contest between the east and west ; and the Oriental 
rite, in the Slavonic letters of Cyril, was in many 
places adopted. 

In a.d. 925* — tbat is, only fortv years after the 
final approbation bestowed by John VIII on the use 
of the Slavonic as an ecclesiastical language, and bis 
commendation of Methodius, we find the following 
brief from Jobn X to John of Salona and his suf- 
fragans. Afber dwelling on the Tu es JPetrm, he con- 
tinues : — 

" But God forbid tbat they who worship Chhist 
should forsake the doctrine of the Gospel, the volumes 
of the Canons, and the Apostolic precepts, and should 
fly to the teaching of Methodius, whose name we have 
never seen in any copy of the sacred authors. 
* * * * So that, according to the custom of the 
Eoman church, no one, in the Slavonian territory, 
should perform the sacrifice of the mass in any other 
language but the Latin ; and because tbe Slavs are 
the most special sons of the Eoman Church, they 
ought to remain in the doctrine of their mother." He 
then gives commission for the uprooting the " evil 
plant" to John of Spalato, John of Ancona, and Leo of 

• Farlati, Ulyr. Sacr. iii. 93. 



THE GLAGOLITA BITE. 53 

Praeneste. At the same time he wrote to Tamislaff, 
King of the Croats, and to his Zupans, to assist the 
ecclesiastics with the civil arm. 

No doubt it was the introduction of the Oriental 
rite, in Cvrillic characters and Slavonic language, 
which rendered the Pope so inveterate against the 
use of that character and these letters in the Eoman 
rite. Besides, it involved a translation of Missal and 
Breviary ; no easy task in the most learned of ages, 
an enormous labour then. The National Council of 
Spalato* (a.d. 925), by its tenth Canon (which, how- 
ever, has come down to us in a corrupted state), 
absolutely forbade the use of Slavonic in future, 
except in case of extreme necessitv, and then only by 
priests already ordained. The canon gave rise to 
deep discontent, and sent many and tnanv a Dalmatian 
to find a vernacular within the Eastern church ; and 
not a few, it is to be feared, to the loathsome heresy 
of the Paterenes, then abounding in Bosnia. 

Eor 140 years, nevertheless, partly connived at, 
partly secreting itself, the rite struggled on. About 
1064 the Cardinal Archbishop Mavnard held another 
Provincial Council at Spalato, in which those who 
should employ it were to be delivered over to an 
anathema. The poor Slav priests made an earnest 
but ineffectual appeal to Alexander II. He told 
them, what the council had said before, that Metho- 
dius was a heretic, and added, that he was an Arian ; 
affirmed that the Cyrillic letters were Arian letters ; 
that he could not have Arian letters in his church ; 

• Farlati, Hlyr. Sacr. iii, 97. 



54 THE GLAGOLITA BITE. 

% 

and that they must observe what his venerable 
brother Mavnard had enjoined, or it would be the 
worse for them. This depends on the testimony of 
Thomas, who was then Archdeacon of Spalato, and who 
seems to nare had afellow feeling with the appellants. 
He tells us of the great grief caused by the Pope's 
decision. 

But, in 1248 another attempt was made. Inno- 
cent IV was entreated to allow the performance 
of the Eoman offices in the Slavonic language, but 
not in the Cyrillic character. !No; "in a certain 
character invented by S. Jerome" (who, the reader will 
remember, was a Dalmatian) and known as the Gla- 
golita, from the Slavonic GlagoV, "a word." Before 
saying anvthing of this character, I will give the two 
Slavonic alphabets, Glagolita and Cvrillic. 

Now, there are three opinions with regard to the 
Glagolita : 

1. That it is the primitive Slavonic character, and 
therefore far older than the Cyrillic. This is the 
general western view. 

2. That, by apious fraud, some cleverpriest, wishing 
to obtain the Pope's sanction to the Slavonic Liturgy, 
invented this character, to render the employ ment of the 
vernacular possible, without the adjunct of the hated 
Cvrillic. This was Dobroffsky > s theory, and is followed 
by most Easterns. 

3. That it was invented by Cyril for his Latin, as 
the other for his Greek, converts. This seems Ginzel's 
view, and it has, I believe, few followers. The first is 
decidedly my own opinion, and I proceed to give my 
reasons. 





.6oO Jq andfolaćeA, x 

700 y . &np 6) 

800 tf _ ef£^ _ 1{J 

900 H/ - ^ - i| 

1000 ft _ £»£__ y 

UJ - s*> - iu 
TB ^ 



*EH 
2,1 



T /99t44*C>e 



A 
A 






(*) 

K) 

n 

16 

* 90 






- * 

_ M 



60 
700 

q 
i** 



u 



THS GLAGOLITl. BITI* 55 

I. The extraordinary dumsinees of the Olagolita — 
for in the modem Alphabet, as I have given it, that 
clumsiness has been very muchlessened, — would kave 
made it an Herculean task to write out ft Miisal or 
Breviary in it. Why did not the missionaries, who 
must have had a certain amount of talent, frame, 
supposing it framed by them, an easy running eha- 
racter, instead of one so painfiillv laborious ? 

II. If we examine the two alphabets together, we shall 
see that some letters are the same. Which are thej P 

Look at the theory of QrriL Hefirst took the 
Greek alphabet, and used it up. He then had, some- 
how or other, to procure a set of signs fbr sounds not 
Greek, principellj ih, Uh^ ah, and dj, and for the soft 
beautiful mutes yer, yier, and yere. Now these are the 
very eharacters in irhich his alphabet coincides witk 
the Glagolita. If Cvril's were the late* of the two, 
how ver y natural that he should avail himself of already 
eristing Slavonic letters for eipressing Slavonic sounds! 
But if the Glagolita were the later, why should iti 
author invent for himself those eharacters which were 
common to the Greek and the Cvrillic, but copy ali 
those which were peculiar to the Cvrillic as distin- 
guished from the Greek P Is not thk the very 
opposite of what he would have done P He might, 
to save trouble, have taken the Greek, or at least the 
Latin eharacters, so far as they served his tura : but 
the special Cvrillic letters are those which he would 
specially have avoided. 

I observe also, that there is a itriking resemblance 
between some of the Sanscrit and some of tjie Glago- 
lita types; a thing which could not, in that age, 



50 THE GLAGOLITA BITE. 

have arisen from a Dalmatian Priest possessing any 
acquaintance with Sanscrit, and which can surely 
never be attributed to chance. 

As to Ginzel's hvpothesis, it is only founded on 
one argument, that the characters condemned by 
Alexander II, are called Cvrillic. But he takes them 
to have been G-lagolita. Deny, as we unhesitatingly 
do, this belief, — and he has no other reason to allege. 
And even were this opinion correct, how easily might 
those who thought Methodius an Arian heretic, have 
also, with as little truth, thought him to be the author 
of the Glagolita ! Dr. Ginzel adds, that the form of 
the Glagolita is easier to a hand accustomed to write 
Latin than is Cyrillic ; if he had copied even only as 
much as I have done of the two, he would, and that 
8peedily, retract his opinion. 

Innocent IV was applied to by the Bishop of 
Zengh, where, I suppose, the feeling was strongest, 
for permission to celebrate in the vernacular tongue. 
His brief is not only extremely sensible, but expressed 
with great neatness. "Nos igitur attendentes, ut 
sermo rei, et non res sermoni subjecta, licentiam tibi 
in illis duntaxat partibus, ubi de consuetudine obser- 
vantur prsemissa, dummodo ex ipsius varietate litera 
sententia non lsedatur, auctoritate praesentium confir- 
mamus. ,, It is dated at Lyons, March 19, 1248. 

This brief gave, of course, a great impulse to the 
transcription of Glagolita service books ; and nothing 
is more certain, than that this character and the 
Cvrillic were frequently used together. Such a MS. 
is the Oodex> published by Kopitar, known as the 
Texte du Sacre, because formerly employed in the 



THE GLAGOLITA BITE. 57 

consecration of the Kings of France at Bheims. Of 
this, the first thirty-two pages are Cyrillic ; the last 
sixty-six, G-lagolita. The former porfcion is said to 
have been written by S. Procopius; the latter is 
dated 1395. 

Early G-lagolita MSS. are of the extremest rarity. 
A fragment of the 9th or lOth century exists in the 
Capitular Library at Prague ; it is a translation of 
some of the Greek offices for Good Friday. This 
yields another argument against the Eoman invention 
of the character. It is in a good bold hand ; but the 
letters are more rounded than they are at present 
čast. The Codex Clozianus, the most celebrated of ali, 
on which Kopitar published a work at Vienna in 1836, 
and which is now at Trent, contained ali (but now 
a part only) of the Bible, and some sermons of 
S. Chrysostom. The character is small and round; 
very difficult to read. The very learned MikloSic 
considers this the oldest of ali. There is another 
(eleventh century) of the goapels, which was once at 
Athos, and is now at Kazan ; and a similar one of the 
same date in the monastery, called Zograph, in Mace- 
donia. A Praxapostolus of the twelfth, in the church 
of S. Clement of Okhrida. Ali these are of the Greek 
rite, — and of the rounded shape. I think it might be 
gathered that the round character belongs to the 
Oriental, the square to the Western MSS. At Bir- 
bino, in .Isola Lunga (of which more presently) 
Berciž diseovered a very curious fragment of a Bre- 
viary (twelfth century), and another at Tkon, in the 
island Pašman. A fine Breviary was written at 
Zengh, in 1359, and is now in the possession of 



60 THE GLAGOLITA BITE. 

person for the work, and it was entrusted to him. 
But unbappily, he had resided for several years at 
S. Petersburg, and had there become acquainted with 
modern Euss, which he took to be the old church 
Slavonic, and had imbibed the idea, that the nearer he 
could bring the Illvrian dialect to the latter, the purer 
he would make it. Hence he produced a work, which 
was not only offensive to the Dalmatians, as obnoxious 
to the charge of being Eussian; but has had a materi- 
ally bad influence on the language. To give an ezample 
that every one can understand. The old Slavonic 
preposition for in is v\ In Euss this is now changed to 
vo, in Illyrian to va. Levakovitch had given the formula 
of the sign of the Cross correctly enough ; va ime* Otza, 
&c. Karaman caused great offence by printing vo imja? 
Otza. However, his work was approved by four Eussian 
church ecclesiastics (the very persons who ought not 
to have been consulted), and finally was authorized by 
Benedict XIV, August 15, 1754. In this the Pope 
expressly forbade the practice, then beginning to pre- 
vail of printing the every day portions of the mass in 
Eoman letters. Karaman, as the reward of his labours, 
succeeded Zmaievitch at Žara. 

I now come to the Breviary. 

The Editio Prmceps is that of Venice, 1562; edited 
by the same Nicolas Brozhitch of Castelmuschio of 
whom we have spoken before. The alterations made 
by Pius V, and Clement VIII, and IJrban VIII, in 
compliance with the Canon of the Council of Trent, 
made another Illyrian edition necessary. This was first 
put intothehands of Levakovitch of whom I have spoken 
before ; and he was aasociated with Cyril Terletzky, 



THE GLAGOLITA BITE. 61 

— the notorious deviser of the Slavonic TTnia — 
Bussian Bishop of Chelm. The result was, that the 
Breviary was full of Bussisms, and not only so, but in 
some words showed a deficiency of Slavonic learning 
altogether. Take one example : — the proper word for 
temptation is napast; but a modem Bussism made 
it islcusenye, which to Dalmatian ears meant attempt. 
However, Terletzky thought that being the Buss, it 
was also the old Slavonic expression; and the 6th 
petition of the Lord's Praver, which up to this time 
had stood 

I ne uwedi nas wnapast, 
he gave 

I ne to-icedi nas to-iskusenije. 

which, in Dalmatian meant, — "and lead us not into an 
attempt." But had Terletzkv only taken the trouble 
to look at the great Oštrog Bible of 1581, the standard 
of printed old Slavonic, he would have found the word 
napast, which he rejected as Dalmatian, standing in 
the Lord's Praver. However, this translation was 
authorized by Innocent X; it appeared iu 1648, and 
Levakovitch, as his recompense, was made Bishop of 
Okhrida (Prima Justiniana) in Bulgaria. 

The second edition then is this, Bome, 1648. 

The third, Bome, 1688, under the editorship of 
Pastrici, who acquitted himself no better here than iu 
the Missal. 

The fourth and last, Bome, 1791. This is edited by 
John Peter GU)cini6, Bishop of Arbe, with the help 
of Karaman ; and it is that which is usually found in 
the GHagolitic churches. It is a rather handsome 



62 THE GLA0OLITA BITE. 

octavo, large and long in proportion to its siže, and 
forms two volumes. 

There bave also been editions of the Eitual, but 
in the Eoman character. In 1640, a handsomelj 
printed book in small quarto, was edifced by Bartho- 
lomew Cassius; dedicated to Pope Urban VIII, 
and approved by him. Here Eoman characters are 
alone emploved, and there is not even an attempt 
at expressing the peculiar Slavonic letters further 
than by the g for tch. It is a handsomely printed 
book, the rubrics in red; the music very boldly 
and clearly printed on red lines. But barbarous 
as Slavonic must always look when expressed in 
Latin characters, it is more barbarous than ever here 
from the peculiar method of spelling employed. Bene- 
dict XIV by his brief of August 15, 1754, forbade in 
future the employment of any character except G-la- 
golita for ecclesiastical Slavonic. But this brief was 
a dead letter from the beginning ; no Glagolita ritual 
ever appeared, and Cassian's translation, therefore, 
continued to be used tili 1791, when an improved 
edition, but etili in Latin character, was put forth by 
authority. 

"VVithin the last few years, indeed, a further step 
has been taken in the same direction. The Epistles 
and G-ospels, the proper Prefaces, the office for Holy 
Week, &c., and the Seauences, were printed in 1857, 
in the Latin character, and received the imprimatur 
of the Bishop of Spalato. From this book I have 
more than once seen the G-ospel read during mass. 
A remarkable peculiarity in it is this — that, whereas, 
as every one knows, there is no sequence in the Eoman 



THB OLAGOLITA STR. 63 

Missal for Christmae Dav, an original lDjrian one is 
bere given, and is, as I am told, a great farourite whh 
the people. I inquired in the Bishop's court at Sele- 
nico, how this publieation could be reeonciled with 
tbe Apostolic letter of Benediet XIV. To which tbe 
answer was : that, bad Benediet XIV been as well 
acquainted witb tbe wants of Dabnatia as its present 
prelatea, be would bare been tbe first to sanetion such 
a publieation; a remark, wbicb I doubt not, is true 
enough. 

Besides tbe writers I bare alreadj mentioned, tbe 
only otbers in Glagolita are two or tbree editions of 
spelling books — Azbukridars as they are called. 

It now only remains to compare tbe extent to wbicb 
tbe Glagolita office was employed wben first pennitted, 
witb its nse at tbe present daj. 

In tbe cbapter on Eeclesiastical Dabnatia, tbe reader 
wiQ be told tbat that province now forms one arch- 
bisbopric, namely, Žara ; witb six suftragans. But in 
tbe time of Ionocent IY, wben tbe eeclesiastical em- 
ployment of Slavonic was first allowed, it contained 
four arcbbisboprics ; namely, Žara, Spalato, Eagusa, 
Antivari, and twenty-seyen bisboprics. In ali of these, 
it would seem to bare been, if not universal, at ali 
events very general; while in the other four bisboprics 
of Istria, namely, Trieste, Capo d'Istria, Citta Nova, 
and Parenzo, it was also common. So it was in Bosnia, 
Servia, and Bulgaria. In the diocese of Žara, and in 
tbose of Arbe, Ossero, andVeglia,every single ehureh 
was Glagolitic, except tbe catbedrals. In Spalato, out 
of thirty-six parisbes, only eight were Latin. As late 
as 1733, nineteen ehurehes in the diocese of Parenzo 



64 



THE GLAGOLITA BITE. 



emploved the Slavonic rite. Zengh was the only 
cathedral of which I can find it absolutely stated that 
its services were vernacular. 

Far different is the state of things at the present 
day. In the first place, the negligence which, from 
1531 to 1631, left the ILlyrian priests without an 
edition of their missal, drove inany worshippers to 
embrace the Latin rite ; many to the Greek Church ; 
and some, I was assured on the spot, though it seems 
hard to beliere, to the remnant of the Patarenes, who 
even then clung, as their last refuge, to the wild 
mountains of Bosnia. Afterwards, when Levakovitch 
brought out his edition, its corruptions rendered it 
very unpopular. People did not like to be told to pray 
— as I have said was the case — " Lead us not into an 
attempt." And so, day by day, and partly also no doubt 
from the greater facilities of intercourse with foreign 
nations, the Latin rite usurped on the Glagolita, tili 
the latter was reduced to its present dimensions. 





8 




a 


• a 5 






i 


i 


li 


Diocese of VegUa. 


















Veglia Island 


13 


14,283 


3 


9 


Cherso Island 


— 


— 


1 


1 


Diocese of Zora. 










Deanery of Žara - 


7 


8,075 


1 


2 


„ Nona - 


4 


1,793 






„ Rasanze 


1 


329 






„ Novograd - 


4 


967 






„ Albaemari8 - 


1 


180 






Selbe - 


14 


6,330 






„ S. Euphemia 


9 


4,536 








40 


22,210 





TH» SLABOLITA BITI. 



as 



Diocese of Spalaio. 

Deanerv of Spalato 
„ Trau - 
„ Segni- 
„ Makarska - 
„ Neretva 
„ Imotachi 
„ A 1 misna 


i 


i 


! 


1! 


10 

i 

19 
3 
6 
8 

15 


9,963 
320 
11,597 
3,077 
3,687 
5,572 
6,296 








62 


40,512 




Dioceae of Sebenico. 


3 


2,077 




Total : — Veglia 
Žara 
Spalato 
Sebenico - 


13 

40 

62 

3 


14,283 

22,210 

40,512 

2,077 






118 


79,082 





So it will be observed, that the vernacular use has 
utterlj died even at Istria, where, 150 years ago, it 
was the language of the ecclesiastical majoritv. 

It may be interesting, as ari example of the fluc- 
tuation of the translation, and its orthography, to 
compare a hymn from the Ritual of 1640, with the 
epistles and gospels of 1858. 

Gloria, laus et honor tibi sit, Rex Christe, Redemptor ! 

Cui puerile decus prompsit Hosanna pium. 
Israel es tu Rex, Davidis et inclvta Proles, 

Nomine qui Domini, Bex benedicte, venis. 

(1640.) 
Slavva, hjala, i čast tebbi buddi Kragliu Tsukarste od kupittegliu, 
Komu ditinska dijka pievva Hosanna milio. 



66 THE aLi.GOT.ITA BITE. 

Izraelpki tij kragl, Davjdov plemenit plood : 

Koji ti imme Gospodinovo Kragl blagossovglieni prih6disc. 

(1858.) 

Slavati, f ala, $ast Karate Spasiteglju ; 

Kdm illst ditinski slast piva : Hozana xeljn. 
Israela Kraglsi, kavi gastna Davida : 

U ime priscaoei Gospodgne sada. 



«r 



Chaftsb V. 

ISTRIA. 

We started finom Trieste for a tour through Istria. 
As there is a post road as far as Parenzo, and a road 
which is perfectlj earriageable finom thence to Pola, we 
engaged a carriage with two horses in Trieste, and a 
servant who was reoommended to us as being able to 
speak the various Hljrrian dialects of Slaronic, as 
well as Italian, German, French, and English. And 
Ginseppe Dundich, for that was his name, prored him- 
self a most trnstworthy oonrier both in onr Istrian, 
and aftenrards in onr Dalmatian tour. He had spent 
some jears in the senriee of the English ambassadors 
in Persia; and was well acquainted with India and 
China, thongh long settled at Trieste, of which he is a 
native. 

The way lies throngh the eastern qnarter of Trieste 
and passes the three cemeteries, Greek, Latin, and 
Protestant; thej oeeupja lorely sitnation on the slope 
of a hill, which forma the northern hora of a little 
baj, blue with ali the blueness of the Adriatic. The 
road skirts the sea-eoast for some miles; then cuts across 
a well-cultivated heađland, and the beautiful golf of 
Capo d'Istria opens ont at once. A qnaint, crowded, 
medisjral town, Capo d'Istria occupies a little 

v 2 



68 ISTBIA. 

promontorj ; narrow streets, allejs that, from one enđ 
to the other form only a fliglit of steps, an ill-paved 
fishing-quay — these take up the greater part of the 
city ; but the catheđral stands in an open place with a 
few trees planted about it, and the episcopal gardens 
skirting it to the north. It is entirely modem ; only 
in the west end some fragmenta of Roman inscriptions 
have been built up. The tower, tali, thin, and ending in 
a prolonged pyramid, is merely a poor copy of that ad- 
joining S. Mark's at Venice, as are ali those whichl shall 
briefly hereafter describe as Venetian towers. The altar 
stands between chancel and nave ; the choir is square- 
ended, and the stališ oocupy its three sides; the bishop's 
throne being placed in the centre of the east end. 
This I take to be a radically vicious construction for a 
square east-end. The Svnthronus, which it is intended 
to represent.ab8olutely requires an apsidal termination: 
then the bishop's throne obtains dignity from its very 
position; here it is only one stali out of a row. Never- 
theless, this is a favourite Istrian and Dalmatian 
arrangement, more particularly in monastic churches. 
How earlv such an idea may be, I cannot say; I have 
seen no eiample previous to 1510 or 1520. 

After attending vespers in the Catheđral, we neit 
visited the Capuchin Monastery ; it seems very poor, 
and only contains five or six brethren. They showed 
us, however, with the greatest courtesy, their library, 
the poor remains left in the devastation made by the 
Duke of Balmatia, in the French invasion of 1814. 
Sut in this aod many other instances, I have regretted 
that no eccle»iastical pommission had been issued for 
the examination of these monastic libraries. The 



ISTRI A.. 09 

printed books are sometimes curious enough ; and 
there is generally a mifficient store of Incunabula. 
But there is also, generally speaking, a MS. historj, 
either of the monastery itself, or of the diocese, 
or the provinoe; or some kindred work. Probably 
the greater part of such histories would be utterly 
unworthy of pubiication ; but from the short glances 
that I was able to give to a few such, I saw that 
there was considerable likelihood of some curious 
facts, in hands that knew how to use them, being 
brought to light. There is, for example, in this 
Capuchin house at Capo d'Istria, a MS. Historia 
JScelćrim Gradentis ; it seems to be continued for 
about a hundred years. I there read an account 
of a Tisit paid by Savanarola to Gtorts, and of a 
sermon preached by him at the Great Church : a 
sermon which the writer seems to have heard for 
himself ; one of those fiery điscourses which raised so 
strong a feeling against the fearful corruption of the 
times, and at last brought the preacher to the štake. 
The whole passage would be well worth printing; 
and no doubt it is but one among several such. 

Hence to the Observantine Convent, souiewhat 
largerthan the Capuchin. From this we continued 
our route along the eoast : the landscape becoming 
flat and ugly, and our immediate view presenting 
nothing but a series of salt-pans ; and the low white 
houses, and general barrenness, and desolation which 
accompany them. A very long, but gradual rise, 
brought us, about fauk, above the Promontory of 
Pirano. The little town lay crowded together far 
below us ; the deaoenf to it is so steep that we had 



70 ISTEIA. 

to walk down. I thought tbat I had never seen 
anvthing more picturesque than the quay,.and lake-like 
bay ; and beyond the eastern hills* Montemaggiore, for 
eiample, and Monte Gasino.. The clouds were piled 
thick and black together ; and an occasional- vivid 
flash of lightning threw tower, and street, and. mast 
into sharp relief. But in the interval, Venus and 
Saturn, though close together, had each its own lovelv 
path of light on the water, unbroken, yes, and even 
untrembling. — I cannot say rouch for our inn ; but 
it did ; and in the morning we began our eiplorations. 
In the first place to the Cathedral, still so called, 
though bo no longer. It presents the ground-plan of 
a basilic, but is now entirely modem, with the excep- 
tion of a few classical fragments built in at the west 
end ; and the apses remain, though much modernised, 
towards the east. The choir is, aa at Capo d'Istria, 
behind the high altar, and invisible from the greater 
part of the nave. The present structure wa& dedicated 
on S. Mark's Day, 1638 ; but a very curious inscrip- 
tion remains to teli that the original church was 
dedicated on S. Mark'a Eve, 1344.. The seven altars, 
it says, were consecrated by these bishops (but as 
more than seven prelates are mentioned, we are left 
in some difficulty how to ezplain the assertion.) 

p. Justinopolensis (i.e. Capo d'Istria), Eno* 

Cathedral of nensis (i.e. Cittanova, united in 1434 to 

S. Mark. Parenzo),. Parentinus, Polensis, Peten- 
esinus (i.e. Pisino or Mitterburg, in the centre of 
Istria), Capiolanensis, Evelfnensis« (Buje), Doma- 
tensis, Soaralensis. These last sees I cannot ezplain. 
The cantons of Pirano, Capo * d'Istria, Castelnuovo, 



ISTRIA. 71 

Buje, and Montona, now belong to the see of Capo 
d'Istria, which is united with Trieste; the Bishop 
resides half the year in each of his cathedral cities. 
The tower of Pirano is of Venetian idea ; tali, thin, 
pyramidal headed, and capped with an angei, — it is 
visible far out at sea, — indeed, the building štanda 
nobiy, buttressed up on the very edge of a steep cliff, 
from which the only descent to the shore is by a 
precipitous staircase. To the east of the cathedral 
is the modem octagonal church of & John Baptist, 
once the Baptisterj y the sides retain a good deal of 
classical sculpture ; there is a scjuare draw-well in the 
middle. 8. JPietro is a small modern 
church. The Eranciscan Convent, of the 
seventeenth centurj, has a tolerable cloister ; it con- 
tains, at present, seven puiests, and three 
laymen. I noticed, in going over the ¥ %^ n 
house, that "an'ancient and fish-like smeli" 
pervaded every part of it. This was at last explained 
by our being introduced into the museum of Father 
Antonio, who, it seems, has the reputation of being one 
of the first German ichthyologists of his day ; and who 
has fishermen, in diferent parts of Istria, in his pay. 
He endeavoured to interest a very unintelligent audi- 
tor in his treasures. The library is but poor; the 
same apology was made here as always, for its being 
in such wretched order* The spoliation by the 
French is irreparable ; but surely their disorder need 
not have continued to this time. The Conventual 
Church, with a flat painted ceiling, seems to have been 
a favourite place of burial. 

The floor is covered with inscriptions such as this : — 



72 ratttiA. 

Đefauri soboles, ihtmdana pericufe trananu, 
Securum luc portom, c^o requiescttt, babet. 
1729. 

8. Stephen and the Madonna delte Salute, a worthless 
modem building. And so we bade adieu to Pirano, 
and continued our route southward. It laj along 
the flat coast, salt-pans eyerywhere : here and there 
a little wbite chapel for tbe salt-workers. A clean, 
bealthj trade ; but the barrenness of the land in which 
it is carried on is unpieasing. The countrv shortly 
after improves ; and is truly what the French call 
riant. Vinevards and oliveyards, hill and dale, the 
green ilex and the lime, the vine shoots trailed along 
the hedges, after the raanner which the Portuguese 
call enforcados or de enforcado, amidst dog-roses and 
hawthorn ; every copse sending up its morning hymn 
of praise from countless nightingales ; everj fleecj 
lamb-cloud, as the Illvrians call it, dropping its purple 
shadow on some distant hill or nearer vallev. Tes, 
'central Istria, with the one exoeption of Minho, is 
the loveliest countrj I ever saw ; and I could not but 
apply to that, M ahomet's noble speech about Damascus 
— " Men can have but one Paradise ; and niy Paradise 
is fixed above." 

And now two tali Venetian towers lifted themselves 
up on a distant hill ; and passing through, for an hour 
more, a succession of the same scenery, we began to 
ascend the high hill on which Buje (pronounce the j 
as y) stands. Here we dined at the post-office — con- 
sidering ali things, a tolerable meal. The church 
B . which we had seen to the left, 8. Marta, 
S. Manu. turned out worthless, the other, 8. 8er m 



IBTBIiu 



78 



vuku, is the oi-devant cathedral. These Istrian 
sees must have been very small. The Beeirh of Buje, 
(and the diocese could not have been larger) onlj 
contains 14,000 inhabitants, and tirelve livingg. This 
church is large, but entirelj rebuilt — the 
ancient font alone remains— late in the ^ft^S.? 
twelfth, or early in the thirteenth centurj. 
Here it is. 



S. Senrulus. 




Built into the north wall are two Soman 
heads in high relief, with the respective legends : — 
C. VALEEIVS . LVALBRIVS. Acuriouscircular 
stone is inserted in the western fasade ; it is sculp- 
tured with Host and chalice, with the inscription — 

CPS DNI. 



The tower of S. Servulus is detached, and štanda on 



74 IBTBli* 

the north side of the nave ; a very common Istrian 
position. Of the four saints bearing the name of 
Servulus, who occur in the* calendar, this is doubtleas 
the martyr of Trieste, who auffered under Numerian, 
about a. d. 284. 

In the afternoon we continued our journej through 
scenerj, if possible, lovelier than. that of the morning. 
Passing the little hamlets, crowded with a contented 
agricultural people, of Trebani and Grisignano, we 
crossed the Eiver Quieto> rightlj so named; eatingits 
way, silent river, through the pleasant meadows of its 
own valley. Then, some two or three miles to our 
right, the tali Venetian towers of Montona rose on 
its isolated hill, the usual) position of these little Istrian 
towns. It lies on the centrali Istrian road from Trieste 
to Mitterburg ; and shortly after we entered Visinada 
a village lying on the eastern slope of a 
vine-covered hill.. The church, dedicated to 
S. Jerome, is modern, but near its western end is this 
inscription, which I copied :•■ — 

o. SABE NVS 

MAXIMV8 

VOLTILIAE ME SE 

GVNDAH VXOEI 

LEVCINAE ORFAE 

MATRI VIVS P.E.O. 

8IBI ET SVIS 

There is under it a well-sculptured pitcher, and an 
instrument, something like a rude pair of pincers. 

A little beyond Visinada, the telegraph turns to the 
left, on its wayto Bovigno and Pola; our road follows 
the coast line; and, through a country of still increasing 



IBTBIA. 75 

beauty, we reach Parenzo, twelve miles from Buje, 
about nightfialL It was the catheđral of this city 
which had principallj led us into Istria ; and, as it is 
certainly one of the most singular ehurches which 
primitive times have lefb to us, the reader will not 
wonder that I dwell on it at some considerable length. 
Few visitors, indeed, enter this deserted town — a 
town, however, which, in ecclesiastical interest per- 
haps jields onljr to Bome and Bavenna. Besides my 
own notes, I avail mjself largelj of Lohde'a monograph, 
from which I have copied the frontispiece that adorns 
mj ownlittle volume; with its principa! catheđral, some 
account of the ecclesiastical history of Istria will 
naturali^ mingle itself. 

Parenzo stands on a peninsula; its 2,500 inhabi- 
tants entirelj fill up the promontorj. The Bezirk, of 
which it. is the head, contains 8,249 souls, and ten 
parishes. The island of S. Ricolas sh«liers the harbour 
from the south-west, and renders it completelj land- 
locked. Strabo mentions it as Ilapdvnov; Plinj (Hist. 
Mat. iii. 23), as Parentium, or Parentum : Stephanus 
of Bjzantium tells of its harbour. Istria, in 493, was 
in the hands of the Goths ; in 539 the Eastern Empire 
reclaimed it, and it belonged to Gonstantinople tili 
about 789.. The Gospel was preached in Istria before 
the end of the first centurj ;. but the see of Parenzo is 
referred to the. time of Theodosius the Great, S. Eu- 
phrasius being the first bishop. Under Justinian, the 
Istrian prelates strenuouslj opposed the condemna- 
tion of The Jhbbb Chapters ; and when the Aqui- 
leian schism against the Y. (Ecumenical council took 
an ecclesiastical status under the self-stjled patriarch, 



76 ISTRIA. 

Paulinus, the Istrian churches followed in its lead, 
and not tili a. d. 701 were the prelates of Illyricum, 
Bhoetia Secunda, and Noricum, again received into 
the unity of the Church. 

Part of Istria, dtiring the Lombard domination, fell 
into the power of those barbarians. At the destruction 
of their empire by Charlemagne, that part naturallj 
attached itself to the Franks, while the other formed 
a portion of the Croatian Province under the Eastern 
Empire. In the tenth centurj, during the contest 
between Građo and Aquileia, for their patriarchal 
rights in* Istria, Parenzo was a partizan of the latter. 
Later, and after many a struggle against the rising 
power of Venice, it, in concert with the other mari- 
time towns, half by constraint, and half willingly, 
owned itself vassal of S. Mark's Lion* It was 
in 1192 that Parenzo became tributarj to Venice ; on 
Eebruarj 15, 1267, that it was incorporated with the 
Venetian state, and so it remained for 530 years. 

The 14th centurj was most calamitous in its effects. 
In 1354, the Genoese Admiral, Paganini Dora, ap- 
peared before the town ; it was sacked and burnt, the 
relics of its patron saints, S. Maurns, and 8. Eleutherius 
were carried off in triumph, and scarceiy had it begun 
to recover from this blow, when a yet severer misfor- 
tune fell on it. The Black Death raged so violently 
here in 1361, that its 3,000 inhabitants were reduced 
to 300; and remained so tili, in 1692, a G-recian 
colony was planted here ; and later, a Slavonic popu- 
lation from Dalmatia poured into it. Affcer under- 
going the fortunes of the Venetian States, Istria was 
nnally nnited to Austria in 1813. 



ISTBIA. 77 

Before we come to speak of the cathedral, some 
notice of ifcs prelatea seems necessarj. We shall see 
from the inscription over the taberuacle that the 
erection of tiie present building is due to a certain 
Bishop Euphrasius, who lived during the time of a 
certain Pope John. jNow, there is a. singular diificultv 
in individualizing this Euphrasius. 

TJghelli,* in his Italia Sacra, mentions Euphrasius 
as the first Bishop of Parentium, and fiies him at the 
beginning of the sizth centurv, though confessing 
that the whole matter is very uncertain. But Coletti, 
his editor, prints a very curious document of the year 
796 in which Euphrasius " Parentina Ecclesi© Promil, 
curator pupillorum viduarum et orphanorum, pastor 
in ecclesia BeatsB Mari® Virginis, et Sancti Mauri 
Martvris," guarantees certain privileges to his canons. 
These privileges are renewed by each of the succeed- 
ing bishops, 28 in number, down to Eulcherius (1208), 
and the Bishop Adelpert in 1219, perceiving the old 
document to be worn out, copies and certifies it on a 
new parchment. Coletti, therefore, put the Euphra- 
sius, who was the founder of the present cathedral, 
as late as 796. 

But two remarkable passages seem to have escaped 
his attention. Paullus Diaconus tells us (Hist. 
Longabard. III, 26) of a John,'Bishop of Parenzo 
who in 586 followed the schismatical patriarchs of 
Aquileia, and was one of those four Istrian bishops 
whom the Patrician Smaragdus carried off by force to 
Bavenna. Therefore Parenzo was a see in the middle 

* Tomu v. p. 394; Venice edition of 1721. 



78 ISTBIA. 

of the sixth centurv. But further, Pelagius I. (he sat 
from 555 to 559), thus writes to the Patrician Narses, 
conceming an Istriau bishop, Euphrasius : — " Quales 
autem sint, qui ecclesiam fugiunt, Eufrasii vos 
scelera, qu® amplius occulta Deus esse noluit, evi- 
denter informant : qui in homicidio quidem nec homi- 
nis necessitudinem, nec fratris caritatem, nec 
sacerdotii reverentiam cogitavit." 

Now the inscription on the tabernacle runa thus : 

Fanralus Dei Enfrasius antistes temporibns suis agens annum 
nnđecimam hunc locura oonđiđit a fandamentis Domino Johanne 
beatissimo antistite Catholic» Ecclesia3. 

We gatber on the whole : 

1. From Istrian tradition, that Euphrasius was first 
Bishop of Parenzo. 

2. Erom the tabernacle, that Euphrasius was con- 
temporary with a Pope John. 

3. Erom Pelagius's Epistle, that in 556 or there- 
abouts there was an Euphrasius, who was an Istrian 
bishop ; it does not say of Parenzo. 

Now, which Pope John is meantby the tabernacle ? 

Tf we choose to identifj Euphrasius the builder of 
the cathedral with Euphrasius the Istrian bishop, 
whom Pope Pelagius accuses of such crimes, he might 
very well have raised that edifice under John III 
(from 560 to 574). 

But is it likely that a bishop who was engaged in 
an energetic schism should mention the Pope at ali in 
his cathedral, — especiallj as beatissimus antistes : 
more especiallj as Calholica ecclesise ? when he must 
have regarded the Patriarch of Aquileia as the true 
head of the Catholic church? *Would he stretch 




^ 

^ 






' IO 

33 



,— / c^ cO -^ ^ CD Cs 



ISTBIA. 79 

Papal prerogatives, again, when they were oppoaed to 
hiui ? 

I oannot believe it ; and let it be remembered, that 
tbere is no proof at ali that this Euphrasius was 
Bishop of Parenzo ; ali we kno-w is, that he was an 
Istrian prelate. But granting he was, as there was 
certainlj another Euphrasius after bim, why might 
there not bave been another before bim ? I have then 
little doubt that Euphrasius I, first Bishop of 
Parenzo, lived earlier in the sixth century, when Istria 
was in communion with Eome, and built this church 
during the pontificate of John I. (523-526). It is, 
therefore, of the very deepest interest. To continue 
our hktorical notice, we find in the year 961, that the 
cathedral was well-nigh ruined by certain barbarous 
Slaves ; and that its then bishop, Adam, the seventeenth 
prelate, repaired it, and reconsecrated it. In 1233 we 
find Bishop Adelpert consecrating the high altar. In 
1277, as we shall see, Bishop Otho erected the present 
Baldachin. In 1434 Citta Nova was united to the 
see of Parenzo by Eugenius IY; in 1451 Pope 
Nicholaa V again separated it, and joined it to 
Venice. There are no further changes which we need 
particuhrise. The present Bishop Antonio Peteani is 
much interested in the history and restoration of bis 
cathedral. 

Now to describe the church. The ground plan 
with which I present the reader, will render a verbal 
description of it unnecessary. The apse is very noble. 
In the middle of the upper part, S. Mary is seated 
with the Divine child. On each side of her stands an 
angel ; then to her right S. Maurus, the patron saint ; 



80 IBTRIA. 

next to him, distinguished by holding a church, 
Euphrasius, the founder; then Claudius, the arch- 
deacoD and architect, and between these two last, a 
child, Euphrasius, the san of Claudius. S. Maurus, 
with these other peroonages, have their names in- 
scribed orer them. The mosaic is coarse but very 
effectire. The Bishop Euphrasius is represented as a 
thin, tali man, with lean, dark face, and hollow cheeks. 
The underclothing of ali the figures is white. Eu- 
phrasius and the Madonna have orer this a reddish 
upper vestment. Claudius, a grey mantle with brown 
border ; the little Euphrasius a yellow mantle, under 
which he appears to be holding a taper. To the left 
of the Madonna is an angel, and beyond him three 
other saints without either names or attributes : and 
over the head of the Mother of God, a hand eitends 
a laurel wreath. Under the feet of these figures is, in 
four lines, the followinginscription : — 

Hoc fuit imprimis templum quasaante ruinA 
Terribilis lapsu, nec certo robore firmom : 
Exiguo magnoque carens tum firma metallo : 
Sed meritis tantum pendebant putna tecta : 
Ut vidit subito lapsuram pondere sedem, 
Providna, et fidei fervens ardore, sacerdoe 
Euphrasius gancta prsBcessit mente ruinam : 
Labentes melius redituras diruit Sdćes : 
Fundamenta locans erexit culmina templi. 
Quas cernis nuper vario fulgere metallo 
Perficiens cseptum decoravit mnnere magno : 
jEcclesiam signans vocitavit nomine Xsti : 
Congaudens opere sic felix vota peregit. 

The apse is circular in the interior, hexagonal on the 
outside : the round-headed windows are purely Eoman, 
a samt in Mosaic under each. The triumphal arch 



ISTBIJL. 81 

has, on its broad face, medallions with the heads of 
female saints; on the Gospel side* six, spelt thus: 
Eelicita, Basilissa, Eugenia, Cicilia, Agnes, Agathe ; 
on the Epistle side, Justina, Susanna, Perpetua, 
Valeria, Thekla, Euphemia ; while on the vertex of the 
arch is our Lobd's monogram, also medallioned and 
surrounded by acanthus leaves. The ground is dark 
brown ; the medallions of the saints, light blue, of 
the monograms, gold ; the vestments of the saints, 
white, and reddish grey. 

Of the nave caps, I have given two. Others re- 
present a floriated cross, with the monogram of 
Euphrasius (very pretty); fonr vultures alteraating 
with four jars; four swans alternating with four 
couple of cornucopiae; four swans alternating with 
four oxen. 

The baldachin, as to its general form, will be under- 
stood from the plate. 

The Annunciation on the western spandrel, on a 
golden ground, is an exquisite design. The legend : — 
Angelus inquit Ave : quo mundua solvitur a vee. 

On the side facing the altar are SS. Nebridius 
and( ? ) 

On the Epistle side, SS. Maurus and Eleutherius. 

On the Gospel side, a sainted Bishop and Acolyth. 
The legend is : 

Tempora surgebant Christi nativa potentis 
Septem cum decies, septem cum mille ducentis, 
Virginis absque pare cum sacrse sedulus ar» 
Hoc opus ex voto perfecit episcopus Oto, 
Perpetuando pia, laudes tibi, Virgo Maria. 
Hoc quicunque legis, dic, O Virguncula munda, 
Cui nee prima fuit, nec suocea [sura] secunda, 

G 



82 ISTBlA. 

Et ta Sancte Dei Martyr oeleberrime Mame, 

Pro nobis Christi vox interoeđat in aure : 

Ut divinus amor lustret procordia turbe, 

Et dalcis pacis concordia crescet in urbe. 

Ut tandem tota cordis rubigine lota, 

Et pronos demptis tenebris de lumine mentis, 

Cum jam succident vitalia stamina Pare«, 

Nos miserante Deo coeli salvemur in Arce. Amen. 

On the very curious altar hanging, we have the 
following, in golden letters, on a darkened ground : 

Si capitur digne capientem servat ab igne : 
Qui rodit, mandit, cor, os, et guttura tangit : 
Intestina tamen non tangit nobile stamen, 
Esca salutaris qu» sacris ponitur ariš ; 
Si male sumatur, snmenti parna paratur. 

I must not forget to mention the remarkably fine 
renaissance fronta! of silver gilt, which this altar 



In the chapel of S. Andrew, at the south east, two 
very curious things are preserved. The one, the 
tabernacle, coeval with the Cathedral, of which I am 
bound to give a drawing. The other, the Sarcophagus, 
prepared as a shrine for SS. Maurus and Eleutherius ; 
it is of fine grey marble, and the inscription, composed 
by Bishop Paganus in 1247, runs thus : 

-f ANN. DNI. MILLO. DUOT. XLVII. INDIOT. V RESIDENTE. DNO 

PAGANO. 
ET JONE. AEOHIPRO. NECNON. TOMA. DIAC. ET. OTONE. SUBD. 

TESAURAE. 
QUI. AD. HONOREM. DEI. ET. SOOR*. MART. MAVRI. ET. ELEV- 

THERII FECER. 
FIERI. HOO. OP. MAURE. PARENTINOS. CONSERVA. IN0OLUME8. 

AMEN. 

It was again restored by Bishop Aloysio Tasso (1500 
—1516) in 1508 ; as this additional inscription shows : 



I8TRIA. 88 

ALOV. TAfl. SPI^BAB. KAT. BBBGO. CURA. IKSTATBATUM. 
AN.M.D.VIII. 

I coulđ dwell longer on this most interesting church 
with great pleasure,. but I must remember that my 
work is a Tour m Dalmatia, not a history of Farenzo. 
I have enly to add, that the great north transept, seen, 
as a modem addition in the plan, is the present 
choir- Vespers were said very well, while I was 
studying the churcb. 

I find &. Martct, Farenzo, set down as of interest. 
But I kave no description of it y and imagine it, 
tberefore, to be a modem churcb. 

"We might bave continued our route by land to Pola ; 
but, so far as I could leam, no object of particular 
interest lies between tbe two cities ; and as we had still 
some arrangements to make for our Dalmatian Tour, 
we slept one nigbt at Farenzo, and tben returned by 
steamer to Trieste. Here we remained two days. 
On a Saturday, having arranged our Communi- 
cations witb tbe Consul, we again left Trieste, at sii 
in tbe morning, by tbe Kaiserinn Elizabetb (I tbink) 
a very comfortable boat. Calling at Pirano and 
Eovigno, we coasted along Istria ali day, and were 
astonisbed bow flat from tbe sea that glorious country 
looks. In tbe afternoon we passed the interesting 
little Greek colony of Feroi ; and soon after entered 
the narrow strait between the island Buoni and Fasani. 
Here the scenery, witb green fertile coast to the left, 
and innumerable islets to the right, — becomes very pic- 
turesque ; and presently, rounding Cape de Sanci, we 
go — moment never to be forgotten — into Pola harbour. 

We pass tbe little island of S. Catherine, whose 

g2 



84 IBTBIA. 

church we are presentlj to visit : but the ground-plan 




I8TBIA. 96 

and western facade will give the reader a suffioient 
idea of it. It is possiblj of tbe sizth centurj. 

Sir Humphry Davy thought Pola harbour one of 
the most glorious views in the world. And marvel- 
lously beautiful it is. To our left rose the three tiera 
of the amphitheatre, of snow-white marble, but then 
reflecting the redness of a cloudless Maj evening. 
White cottage and tali spire gleamed here and there 
from the thick foliage of the Istrian hills. The peasant 
drove his oxen — it was Saturday evening — to the 
pastures ; the vesper bells rang out from the Cathe- 
dral ; the Adriatic was an unbroken sheet of gold ; 
the " Cheerily, men l oh, cheerily i " čame from an 
English vessel weighing anchor. 

First to the amphitheatre. As I have said, it is of 
white marble, its long axis parallel to the sea; the 
three rows of arches are perfect everywhere, except 
in the (quasi) last, where the ground rises, and there 
are two only. The lowest and second row, of circular 
heads ; the upper, square. 

Every single feature is beautifully clear ; the doors ; 
the trapdoor-holes above ; the canal ; the holes for 
the awning poles ; in several stones the width allowed 
to each spectator is marked by a boldly-cut line. The 
architectural curiosity of the amphitheatre consists 
in the four square towers, at four cardinal points, 
projecting from the ellipse, and supposed to have been 
the Vomitories. The larger axis is 436, the shorter, 
346 feet in length; it is calculated that 18,000 
spectators could find sitting room. The wall, when 
perfect, was 97 feet high. Each of the stories con- 
tains 72 arches. 



86 



ISTEIA. 



. But details are swaRowed up in the one feeling 
that many and inanj a martyr has stood on the same 
holj ground? and that where I now, note-book in 
hand, gaze arounđ, and observe the loveliness of the 
deep blue sky, as seen through the ruined marble 
arch, members of the same church bave stood, waiting 
the spring of the beast that was to sendthem to 
glory. 

Carcerati, tracidati, 

Tormentorum genera, 
Igne l®si, ferro c»si, 

Pertulerunt plurima. 
Dum sic torti ceđunt morti 

Carnis per interitnm, 
Ut electi sunt adepti 

Beatorum promium. 
Ergo ftcti oohseredes 

Christi in ccelestibus, 
Apud eum vota nostra 

Promovete precibus ; 
Ut post finem hujos vitce, 

Et post transitoria, 
Mereamur in perenni 

ExultarePatria! 

"We turned sorrowfully away, thongh to a cathedral 

of marvdlous interest. 
Cathedral. ^ ne cathedral is asfoHows: 




ISTBIA. 87 

The chief peculiaritv is its square east enđ. Bemark- 
able as the building is, it does not afford any eitended 
ground for description. In the south wall is this 
inscription : — 

AS. INCARNAT. DNI. DCCCLVII. 

IND. T. REGNE. LVDOVICO. IMP. AVGVSTO 

IM. ITALIA. HANDEGI8. HVfVB. EOOLBSIE. 

The rest is lost. 

I maj observe that tlrcnigh we made diligent 
inquiries in this city, now numbering some 4,000 
inhabitants, and on account of the docks which Austria 
is here forming, an important place, we could procure 
no description or engraving of the cathedral or amphi- 
theatre ! "Why Mvur&j'aHandBook gives the date of 
the cathedral as of the fifteenth centurj 1 cannot 
imagine. 

The ascent to the choir is by nine steps. The soleas 
is of three, the nave proper of seven bays — ^in ali ten. 
The triumphal arch is very broad : its piers are circular, 
on sqnare base, and with square flowered caps. The 
easternmost three piers, that is those in the soleas, 
have sqtiare stilted base, circular shafb, square flowered 
cap. The easternmost arch is, on both sides, pointed. 
The piers in the nave proper are the same, ezcept that 
the bases are not stilted. The materiai is of coarse 
grey Istrian marble. The aisle windows, three in each 
side, seem to have been recast to their present form, 
trefoiled lancets, in the thirteenth centuiy. The 
clerestory consists of semi-circular windows. There is 
a detached western tower, but it is modernised. 

On one side of the market place are two adjacent 



90 ISTBIA. 

temples. That on your left, as you štand facing 
them, was dedicated to Augustus and Bome ; it is small 
but very perfect ; the Corinthian portico is muca ad- 
mired by antiquaries. The place is now a museum. 
The otheris the Temple ofDiana. It has now an elegant, 
though late Venetian front, having been the palače of 
the governor. The facade has four circular headed 
arches, circular base, circular shaft, square caps. 
I suppose it to be late in the thirteenth century, 
an imitation of Bomanesque. I copied, as well as 
waning light would let me, the following inscription : 

... at Patavi Vitrei cognominis hseree, 

. patriae praeses Bartholomseus erat. 
A parta Marise lustris revoluta ducentis 

Per 8exagenum ceperat ire dies : 
Cura fabricata fuit domus heec veneranda duorom, 

Consilii sedes, juđiciique locos : 
Hsec duo si fuerint sensato preta (?) ministro, 

Vix erit ut populum deseret alma quies. 
TJnanimes igitur foveat concordia oives, 

.... sanum viacere sa3va capat. 

The most lovely ecclesiastical building in Pola (and 

probably in Istria) is the late Francisean Convent, now 

p l a a military magazine. "With great trouble, 

Francisean both moral and physical, I gat into the 

Convent. ^^^ . ^ut that is so blbcked up 

by alteratioDs, and filled with military equipments 

that we could not form any clear general idea of it. 

There is an excellent quadrangle. On the north 

side of the nave, is a double row of apertures, perhaps 

of the fifteenth century — the lower, circular headed 

semi-classical arches — the upper, elegant octagonal 

shafts, bevelled into square base and cap, and support- 

ing the wooden eaves, without any areh. 




I8TBIA. 89 

The east side contains one of the most elegant First- 
pointed doors, between two windows, that I ever 
saw. The mouldings of the door are very elaborate. 
The windows of two trefoiled lights, divided by a 
lovely shafb, daintily pierced with a little trefoil on 
its head. Tou enter the church towards the south 
end of the western side of the cloister. To your left is 
a dedication cross of this shape. It consists chieflj 
of chancel and nave, and must have been 
very solemn. Chancel of one bay ; simple 
cross vaulting ; the vaulting shafbs massy 
and gloomy. At the east end are two 
adjacent trefoiled lights, clearly by the 
same hand as those in the cathedral. The 
nave, if ever it were vaulted, which I doubt, 
is now open to the roof. There is a small north 
chapel to choir. At the south end of the building, 
which commands a glorious view over the bay, is a 
most delicious Middle-pointed door of eight orders, 
twisted and twined in every conceiveable form, a most 
remarkable eiample of the poetry of stone. Over this 
is an eight-foiled rose. I would advise any architect 
who finds himself with an hour or two in Pola (some 
of the steamers stop only that time), to make the 
Franciscan Convent, rather than anything else, and in 
that convent, this door and window, his object. 

AlHTCTO T 7)Ć\l09 * (TKLOOHVTO TC TTCL(Tai dyVldl. 

"We walked back to our inn, a small filthy pothouse. 
The people were very civil, but charged exorbitantly. 
Here I nrst saw, and vainly tried to eat, that vilest of 
meats, a boiled cuttle fish. Its large , lankv, leathery, 



00 ISTEIA. 

clammj, arms, in being cut up, gave me the im- 
pression of hacking away at tough worms. 

Late at night we went onboard the steamer, which, 
on its way to Fiume, was to drop us, next morning, 
at Malin8ki in Veglia. Quite tired out with the 
week's hard work, I turned in to my very corafbrtable 
berth with singular satisfaction, and have an indistinct 
impression of . being woke by tho silence of the 
paddles in the middle of the night, and congratulating 
myself that we were in Cherso harbour, one of our 
calling places, and that, by consequence, I had some 
hours of repose jeL 



91 



Ghakteb VI. 

VEGLIA; OSSEROj JlSTD TO ŽARA. 




MAT OF VBGUA AMD BLAUNICII. 



I kbtsb remember a more peaceful Sunday morning 
than that which broke over na in the Quarnero. To 
the right, as our vessel stoođ south-eastwards, rose the 
woodj peaks of Cherso in ali their green beauty ; an 
unclouded sun sleeping on their glorious masses of 



92 VEGLIA, 08SEB0, AND 

foliage, backed by the wild heights of Istria, on some of 
whose serrated peaks and crags the snow still hung. 
Immediately in front of us was the flatter island of 
Veglia, of a fainter verdure, and spotted here and there 
by the purple shadows of four playful clouds. Before, 
towered the vast mountain range of Croatia; great 
Vellebitchi, princely Marzuran, the gentler chain of the 
Kapella, and monarch of ali, Kleck, sparkling in its 
deep snows. Between Cherso and Veglia, faint in the 
distance, lay the grey shadow of Plaunich. How lovely 
it was, that calm shallow sea — the sun-rays piercing 
it in a thousand golden or beryl paths, and casting 
quivering spangles and drops of light on the golden 
sand, — or therock where the purple sea-anemone spread 
its blossoms, and the sea-rose its broader leaves. Now 
and then the breeze, freshening, brought the sound of 
church bells, or the music of nightingales from sweet 
Cherso; now and then, a distant wave flashed into 
snow on someblack rock, — or a distant vessel, tacking, 
glanced like a white sea bird. 

It was Eogation Sunday. And now I began to 
make out a spire or two on the nearing coast of Veglia: 
and to see groups of peasants wending their slow way 
to mass from the beach-cottage, or the vine-concealed 
hut. And so we čast anchor in the little bay of 
Malinski. The post-master, Lloyd's agent, and gene- 
jal factotum for that part of the island, čame off in a 
boat: and with the hearty Austrian wish of GlucJcliche 
Eeise from our captain, and from our late fellow-pas- 
sengers, we pulled towards the village-quay, and the 
steamer stood northward for Eiume. 

Anxious to see ali I could of the Olagolita rite, I 



tro zjlba. m 

had resolved to walk round the western coast of the 
island, where no carriage can penetrate. My com- 
panion preferred the easier conveyance of a two-horse 
car along the one Veglian road ; and, as my way at 
first was the same as his, we started together. I 
should have thought that, as only one road is carriage- 
able, our driver could not have missed his way ; but 
Llovd's officer, awe-struck with the official paper I 
produced, actually paid a man to ran before us and 
prevent ali possibility of error. 

The Bay of Malinski is a pretty piece of scenery ; 
vinevards that slope down to the white pebbly beach, 
dog-roses that skirt the country road; olives and apple 
trees oocupying vantage places amidst the rocky soil; 
and, as the road, after skirting the sea-shore, proceeds 
towards thehills, wheat and barley fields, eacli enclosed 
by its rude stone wall. About a mile from the quay, 
stands the new ohurch, for Malinski was y tili lately, in 
the parish of Dobasnizza. As we walked up to it, we 
were passed by the sexton, and I had the satisfaction 
of learning that one of my objects was fulfilled. " Is 
the service in Latin in this church ? " " No," was the 
reply; " it is said here in Croatian— or, I ought rather 
to say, in Hlyrian." The building itself is worthless, 
though clean and roomy : chancel and nave — the altar 
etanding between the two. In the choir, I for the 
first time saw Glagolita books. There were two 
ambones, used too, as the sexton said. 

Striking westwards, a quarter of a mile brought me 

to the ohapel of 8. Antonio. It is very a . ± . 

,. . , , . J S. Antonio. 

small ; circular apse, nave, western loggia^ — 

a rude Eomanesque building. The apse, wagon-vaulted. 



94 VEGLIA, OBSEEO, AOT> 

The nave-roof open, of low pitch, painted in the four- 
teeath or fifteenth century, with a checkie pattern ; 
white, grey, andblue ; one small Bomanesque light on 
each side. There is a cinquecento chrismatory. The 
porch, a low wall, with red and white marble shafts that 
support the roof — old men there waiting for mass, to 
commence in half an hour. Here I first made trial of 
my little stock of Slavonic ; which, derived from the 
ancient language only, must have had a ludicrouslj 
archaic effect to my auditors. However, it served as 
a medium of communication, and a cheerful, contented 
pastora! people they seemed. Yeglia is a perfect laby- 
rinth of cross paths. Rock, sock, rock, stone, stone, 
stone, everywhere; deep rocky knes, broad stony 
moors ; forests and forests of one low bright4eaved 
bush ; the turf, such as it is, painted with orchises, 
cowsli ps, and primroses. Walking so fatiguing I never 
remember ; every step has to be picked — sharp rocks, 
round rocks, square rocks — sharp stones, square stones, 
round stones ; fiied rocks, moving rocks, and fixed 
stones, moving stones, mile after mile. The country 
is pretty enough :. now heathy hills, now the bush- 
forest ; sometimes a wheat field, to be measured by 
feet, or rather inches. 

How often was I reminded of the parable in Isaiah, 
of the " vineyard on a very fruitful hiH," where the lord 
"fenced it, and gatbered out the stones thereof!'' 
The stones, here so gathered out, form the wall of the 
field — a wall not rarely as thick as the field is broad. 
And what play-grounds for lizards those walls are! 
How their green and gold contrasts with the white 
spar, or the grey lichen! And what pretty little beasts 



TO ŽABA. 95 

they are ! Often and often have I watched them turn 
their heads this way and that way, for the least sound 
of danger, and then securelj basking in the fierce and 
reflected sun-raj. In the hollow of the crescent- 
shaped wall, I passed one herd of cattle, which were 
diligently turning over the stones for the scant short 
herbage below them r — when a black serpent, at least 
four feet long, darted across my path. So I passed 
westward and upwards, tili I again caught a view of 
the sea — the narrow blue strait. Mount Lyss, in 
Cherso, directly opposite — the white spire of Predo- 
schizza at its foot : Mount Goly, in Istria, towering 
behind both. And, at the same time, I caught sight of 
the tali tower of my own immedlate goal, Poglizza. 

The church was worthless ; a large pseudo-classical 
white building; altar at west end of ..^ 
choir: but I was in time for a Glago- 
lita mass. The epistle and gospel were read, not from 
the Missal, but from the FUtoh i Evangelja, of 
which I have already spoken. It was, I confess, 
with singular interest that I heard the Sctenje 
hnighe Blaženoga Jakova Aposctola given out. 
Here also were two ambones, both used: only 
in the gospel, the acolvth did not ascend with the 
taper, but stood in front and below the Priest. The 
congregation, of some 300, were very devout ; men 
on the north, womeu on the south, side ; the married 
of both seies, east ; the unmarried, west. The Priest, 
before the creed, and still in the ambo, made a short 
address with reference to the Eogation Processions, 
and endiug with a few words on the efficacy of prayer. 
I should observe, that neither in this church, nor 



96 VEGLTA, 0S8EB0, AND 

anywhere on the island, did I find the slightest sign 
of, or allusion to, the month of Mary. Mass ended, 
the worthy Incumbent invited me to share a bottle of 
Cyprus wine. I asked him how far the people under- 
stood the Illjric office ? a question to which I was 
aniious to have a clear answer. " Enough," he said, 
" to carry away the general meaning of a passage. 
" "But stay," he continued, " did you ever read Rabelais 
in the original ? " " Tes." " Veli, about as well as 
a French peasant could understand that dialect, so do 
these the offiee." The reader will hereafter see both 
more, and less, favourable aceounts of the same matter. 
My worthy host preached on the principal festivala, 
usually translating or adapting Segneri : he seemed 
pleased when I told him that an English Friest had 
translated the more striking sermons of that great 
preacher. 

Leaving Foglizsa, my way was to S.Fosca, 
neajper the Strait; a church nearly the 
fac-simile of 8. Antonio. But here, much hidden by 
lime-cast, I made out the inscription : — 



• • . • ed. April.- consecrat. per manus . . , ano millesimo 
nongessimo tertio. 

I should have, without more than internal evidence, 
fixed the erection of the church to 1100. One cannot 
but remember, with reference to the somewhat rare 
dedication, the church of S. Fosca at Torcello ; earlier 
even than this. S. Fosca, or Fusca, was a Eavennate 
Martyr, in the persecution of Diocletian. 



TO ŽABA. 97 

Erom this point, through a tangleđ bush mlderness, 
and groping my way through a labvrinth of paths, 
I at length saw, from the brow of a bili, and far below 
me, the silver line of the Jesero-See, — Veglia's one lake. 
Entering the road close to it, I soon reached the 
heights that lie above the capital. Veglia stands well 
at the head of a little bay, — a quaint, mediaeval, 
fortified town, — with a chapel, such an one as we 
should in Portugal call an ermida, near each gate. 
These chapels have their nave open on three sides ; 
the roof usually lean-to, and supported by marble 
shafts, without arches, rising from a wall three feet 
or three feet six inches high. Veglia is a city of 
narrow streets ; of gardens, terraced steeply up the 
abrupt hill-banks; vine corridors and arbors running 
along the top of rough-cast walls ; while every now 
and then you meet a portly, gentlemanlj-looking 
Canon, with his crimson collars and stockings, the 
Church, in these parts, being by no means in an 
impoverished condition. There is a tolerable inn; 
not more dirty nor vermin-haunted than usual, and 
the people are civil. 

Now for the Cathedral. The see of Veglia contains 
that island, Cberso, and Flaunich ; that of Arbe ; and 
three parishes in the island of Fago. It is in the 
metropolitan province of Gorz. In Veglia, every 
parish church and chapel — the cathedral, which is also 
parochial, alone ezcepted — is,-as I have said, of the 
Glagolita Bite ; thirteen in ali, with a population of 
15,283 souls. Besides this, that rite is employed in the 
convent of the third Hlvrian Order of S. Francis at 
Veglia ; in that of S. Maria Capo : in that of Dobas- 



93 TEGLIA, OSSBBO, A3H> 

skza 5 and in that of VaHe de S. Martino, in Cberso. 
In the oase of mized marriages between a Glagolitic 
and Latin Catholic, the children follow the rite of the 
father ; but there is an ezception in favour of the 
eldest daughter of a Glagolitic family. Though she 
marry a Latin, she and her husband are at libertv, at 
tbeir raarriage, to choose the rite to which she and 
her children will belong ; and, becoming a widow, she 
is again permitted to make her own choice. 

The Gathedral is of Bomanesque date, 
S Mark an ^ ra^h 6 * valuable. It consists of choir, 
soleas, nave ; aislestoall; chapels to north 
aisle ; western tower and narthei, as hereafter to be 
described. The choir, which contains a circular apse 
and two bajs, is thoroughly and hopelessly modernised. 
The soleas haš two bays, and is divided both from choir 
and nave by low marble cinque-cento rails. 6f the 
same date are the ambones on its western side. The 
nare has seven bays ; piers, mostly circular, some few 
octagonal ; square Corinthianising capitals, well worked 
in flowers or beasts ; bases, octagonal or circular, as 
the pier f The chapels are later. The first, entered 
by an elaborately worked pointed arch; shaft with 
white marble cap, base octagonal ; it has three small 
lancets : the second may be original ; arch, circular, 
and, I believe/Eomanesgue : the third, of First-pointed 
details, is very small. The font, at the west end of 
the nave, an octagonal block slightly tapering from the 
upper part to the base. The west end is very singular. 
Imagine a triapsidal church, with western tower, 
set down at right angles to the west end of the 
Oathedral, so that its east end should point south, 



*0 ŽABA. 90 

and you have an idea of tMs strange ađoption. The 
whole is under one vast flattish rbof, gabled, of cburse, 
north and soutb. What maj 1 be called the north 
aisle of our supposeđ erectiori is now tumed into a 
passage, between it and the ćathedral. The centra! 
apse, circukr, is a noble bit of Bomanesque ; a 
nebulj moulding running rounđ the cornice. The 
southern apse is smaller, but in other respects the 
same; tbere are no lights. The north end of thifr 
strange ađoption is partly ruinous, paftly built against; 
but the tower is remarkabfe. Very lofty, it has three 
stages, and ends in a wretehed cupola; there is a 
great Eomanesque belfry light north, and another 
west. An insćription, yery difficult to decipher, states 
that it was restored imperanie Aloysio Mocenigo đuce 
Venefiarum. Veglia was an independent state tili 
ceded to Tenice in 1481* There cdn bel no doubt 
that the Ćathedral was the chtircn erected in 11S3, as 
a thanksgiving for a great vićtory over Corsairs ; and 
dedicated to S. Mark, in acknowledgment of the 
assistance rendered by the Venetian Eepublic. The 
building well deserves the attention of ecclesiologists ; 
but is in the most miserable state of restoration 
possible. Piers and arches are " ornamented" with 
crimson and yellow frippery ; the stališ, wretched ; 
filth and squalor everywhere. This ought not to be, 
for the bishop has a residence in the town, and the 
chapter is well off, and commands great respect. 
I proceed to the other churches : 
That of the Franciscans, in the upper 
part of the city, is of the latter part of the g Francisco. 
twelfth century. Chancel, with square 

h 2 



100 TEGLIA, OSSEBO, AJSTD 

east end, long nave without aisles, tower soutb of 
cbancel. The altar stands under the cbancel arch ; 
the choir, as always bere, being behind. At the east 
end, two lancets : soutb of chancel, one : plain cross 
vaulting. The nave is very plain ; no lights on its 
nortb side ; on its soutb, are trefoiled lancets, wbicb 
reminded me of Pola. Tbere is a modem gallerv at 
the west end, in wbicb the office is said ; it is the 
Glagolita. Over the door, otherwise plain, is the 
Lion of Venice, wbicb must be a later addition. The 
tower is loffcy and plain ; of five stages. Tbe belfrv 
windows are double, circular beaded; the dividing 
shaft square, witb flowered caps. In tbis cburcb I 
beard Glagolita Tierce and Sexts. In the catbedral, 
the vespers were very well and congregationallv sung. 
There was a Ml assemblj of canons, and the bishop 
was in bis place. It was a very ezcellent example of 
a town, Sunday-afternoon, service. 

S. Maria stands on tbe opposite side of 

S. Maria. *^ e roa< ^» an< * c ^ 0Be *° ^' li^ciBCO. The 
position of the respective towers — bere 
at tbe west end, tbere near the east — gives an odd 
effect. Apeidal choir, nave, two aisles, western tower. 
It is of the twelfbh centurj. Tbe ritual choir is 
behind tbe altar. Tbe apse is circular ; one eastern 
lancet. The nave has five bays; tbe arcbes are 
round; the piers circular, the caps, square and 
Corinthianizing ; the windows are of that stable kind, 
which we bave alreadj bad occasion to notice. Tbe 
tower also forms tbe porcb. Of two stages, it has, 
in tbe belfrv, two circular beaded lights. Betweentbe 
two a pilaster buttress. 



TO ZAJtA* 101 

There is also a Conventual church of 
ClarissineB, but it bas unfortunately been churek° 
rebuilt. 

In tbe affcernoon we paid a visit to the Island of 
Zoccolante, which belongs to the third IUvrian order of 
S. Franci«. Embarking, tberefore, at tbe primitive little 
quay of Veglia we rowed across the bay in an easterly 
direction, tili we had doubled tbe promontory of 
S. Maria. Thentbere openedout a pretty bay ; thewhole 
village of Ponte, and its Venetian tower, coucbing below 
tbe bigb eastern down ; detacbed and at some little 
distance from tbe town, tbe country residence 
of tbe bisbop. In tbe very midst of the bay, 
a little thiekly-wooded island, witb a tower rising 
above the limes and oaks and cypresses of the conven- 
tual grounds. A tinv pier formed the land- ,_ , x 
ing place ; oeyond this was a boat-house ; 
and by the side of the latter, under the tali limes, 
sat tbree Brothers, looking out on the wide unruffled 
bay, spotted here and there by the purple shadow of 
a passing cloud. As our boat toucbed the shore, tbey 
čame forward and received us most courteously ; and, 
on entering the trellised corridor that leads from the 
boat-house to the porch, we were welcomed by tbe 
venerable head of the eonvent — ^an old man who might 
have sat to Fra Angelico for one of bis saintly figures. 
The community consists of nve priests, two clerks, 
three brothers, and two servitors. The church was 
unfortunately " rebnilt" in 1721. It is of the usual 
arrangement. Choir, with a square east-end, behind 
the altar. Over the latter is a very large andtolerable 
picture of the Joys of Faradise. The cloisters, if not 



102 TEGLIA, OSSERO, AKD 

picturesque, are convenfent,— roses, syringas, and 
daffodils lighted up the quadrangle, while an old 
laburnum flung its golden blossoms against tbe grey 
arch of the entrance door. The ILlyrian marbles both of 
cloister and church are exquisitely grained, and vorke<l 
with adinirable care. The librarj is poor. I saw there 
the Editio Princepe of Silius Italicus, 148JL, — and 
Lucan, 1472. "We then went into the prior' b ; sitting- 
room, and were regaled with the vintage of an estate 
belonging to the House at Ponte ; a good wine, somer 
what resembling re,d Yoslauer. The conversation 
turned pn the present position of the Pope, and on 
the pamphlet, which was lying on the table, Le Pape et 
VMnpereur. While execrating Viotor Emmanuel, 
and still more Cavour, tbe good fathers were not uitra- 
montane. They did not like the " novelty" of tbe Montb 
of Mary ; and, from the way in which they dactined, 
when I alluded to it, the subject of tbe Immaculate 
Conception,I gathered tbat thev belong totbat minorjty 
«— in Austria a large minority — which vas opposed 
$o the promulgation <of the new dogma. One of them 
pointed out, in avolumeof Latin poetry, called -4w<ww 
Mariani, written by Melcbior Guthwirtb, a Jesuit, 
and published at Jjinz, in 1690, what he called a neat 
rejoincjer to some of the usual argumenta against tbe 
novel doctrine. The reader may not be displeased to 
see a speoimen of tbis polemical ratiocination in 
elegiacs. The worthy prior baving made me a present 
pf the book, I quote it from tbat : 

Acriter occlamant : in Adam peccavimus omnts : 

Ergo labe carem esse Maria nequit. 
OmnibuB ost data lex, bene magnua Apostolos inquit : 



-to zknx. 103 

Supra omnes, non ex omnibas ili* fuit. 
Car attquos fallat, qnod vox ibi ponitur omnis? 

Non omnes vox haec omnis utique legat. 
Ommis homo mendax. An, homo quod et ipsa Maria, 

Sic etiam menđaz eeset habenda tibi ? 
Nonne reformidat durom reverentia dictum ? 

A Domina longe quam dolus omnis erat 2 
Quod earo justiti® leges oorraperit omms, 

Ultrici lnundum perdidit imbre Deus : 
Et tamen hic omnes cum corrupisse feruntur, 

Inter eos pura mente Noemus erat. 

I found them acquainted with the adrairable and 
erushing articles which appeared inthe "Observateur 
<3atholique," — tili stopped by the civil authority — on 
the Bishop of Bruges's work in defence of the buli 
Ineffubilit. In speaking af the Glagalita, thej af- 
firmed it to be the modem hearth-language of the com- 
mon people. (It must be remembered that they have 
no praotical acquaintance with its employment, as this 
is a Latin convent.) "We both noticed the apparent 
dislike with which they spoke of its permissive use : 
just as I reraember, some years ago, to have heard 
the PnBmonstratensians of Strahov espress their 
disapprobation of the Tcheck as employed in the 
Theinkirche at Frague. 

Bidding a farewell to our hosts, we were landed 
at the nearest point of the shore; and thence 
strolled over the bills, a forty minutes' walk, into 
IVeglia. The Bosary was being said with great energy 
by a large congregation in S. Maria, as we passed. 

On the following morning we started on foot for 
Besca Nuova, at the south-eastern extremity of the 
ialand, intending there to meet the steamer from the 
south, and to make our way by it to Zengh. A 



104 VEOMA, OSSEEO, AND 

sumpter horse, under the charge of G-iuseppe Dun- 
dich, was to follow. Our path first skirteđ the bay 
of Zoccolante — then began to rise — and gave us a pre- 
cipitous ascent of an hour and a half. In the mean- 
time, distant growlings of thunder began to echo 
among the Croatian mountains — the clouds gathered 
and blackened — and when we čame out on the high 
backbone of the island, we were drenched through and 
through. Here, quite exhausted with thirst, I knelt 
down to drink out of a rocky pool ; and shutting my 
eyes, as one naturally does when they are close to the 
water, I felt something move across my lipa. Looking 
to see what it was, I beheld a monstrous black snake 
making his way to a cleft in the adjacent rock ; and, 
fancying his presence had not improved the taste of 
the water, I discontinued my draught. The descent 
on the other side was singularly beautiful. The gorge 
itself, with the clear bright green Fiumera dashing 
down it ; still more so, the bay of Besca Nuova, with 
the Island of Pervicchio immediately in front, 
and the savage heights of Fonte Scoglia to our 
right. 

Though the day was again fine, there were still 
ominous mutterings in the Croatian range, of which 
we were better to understand the meaning before the 

evening. We passed Beaca Valh, a new 
VaJle w ^^ e cnur0n > w ^ a a Venetian tower, as well 

as several roadside ermidas, and in about five 
hours reaohed the sea-port village of Besoa Nuova. 
Streets and alleys so narrow that two men can scarcely 
pass ; so foul, that the stenches of centuries seem there 
imprisoned ; and yet, the very feet of the filthj vermin- 



TO ŽABA. 105 

tenanted houses are washed by the pure 
green waves of the lovely bay. The steainer jj£^ 
made its appearance, but our sumpter horse 
had not arrived ; and very unwillingly we were forced 
to let it go without us. In half an hour the missing 
party čame up, with a history of accidents — how the 
wretched beast had fallen three times — how the straps 
broke and our luggage rolled down the rocks. We 
hired a boat with four oars, and started for Zengh. 
But now the wind rose, and I was quite surprised to 
see how soon it lashed the Quarnerulo, like a glass ali 
the morning, into fury. We rounded Ponte Luka, the 
south-eastern extremity of the island ; then, first 
whispers, then ominous looks and ezpressions, and 
at last the men said we must put about at once, and I 
heard the word, the dread of Adriatic sailors — Bora. 
They carried every stitch of canvas ; for the sea by this 
time was very high, the great, hungry, green waves run- 
ning affcer us : and, as the boat would not sail near the 
wind, there was considerable risk of our going ashore 
on Ponte Luka. The sky was pitch black, the lightning 
almost incessant, and the thunder bellowed and roared, 
echoed from Veglia to Pervicchio, and from Pervicchio 
to Veglia. "When we čame within a quarter of a mile 
of the rock, our men gave themselves up to their 
Litanies, leaving the sails to our care. Nearer we čame, 
and nearer, to the great black point, on which, through 
the scud of rain, we could see the foam of the breakers 
dashed high into the air. For a few minutes our chance 
seemed very doubtful ; but, providentially, the wind 
fell off two or three points, and like a racehorse we 
flew round the headland, about two boats' lengths 



3.06 TEGLIi., OSSJEBO, AJSTD 

from it. Then the gabbling of voices was indescrib- 
able as different plana were discussed. To get back 
to Besca Nuova was impossible, it lying too near the 
wind, and the sea running too high for oars. Some 
yrere for running to Cberso, othera to Smerzo, or 
Kruskizza; but the nearest of these little harbours 
was 80 miles off. At last, after hearing ali sides, I 
determined for Veglia — I raean the city. But running 
nnderthe Scoglio Gagli — it looked so savagely gloomy 
on that wild night — the wind again shifted, and Veglia 
became an impossibility. Then the men proposed 
Besca Vecchia; where, they said, the priest would 
give us lodging ; and by dint of great exertion we made 
our way into a little creek at the end of the village about 
nine o'clock, drenched and eshausted. It was pitch 
dark; we scrambled alonga cliff-path, and in half anhour 
were knocking at the door of a little white house, elose 
to the church, and like it, overhanging the cliff. The 
priest was going to .bed; he welcomed us most kindly, 
congratulated us on our escape, offered us ali he had — 
bread and coffee, and, quite bevond our eipectation, a 
bed. But such a state of filth, grease, vermin, and every- 
thing loathsome, I never before saw ; the more inex- 
cusable since our host was very well off, and a con- 
siderrfble landed proprietor. He told us that he had 
the Bogation Procession to lead at 2*30 a. m., but that 
he reckoned on seeing us at breakfast. Most glad were 
we to throw ourselves on the bed, let it be what it might, 
and scarcely were we disturbed by the heavy clang oi 
the bells first, and then the hymns, as the village pro- 
cession wound away towards the hills. At seven wc 
were aroused with the intelligence that it was a brigh* 



TO URA. 107 

day, the sea calm,and the boat mooredunder the cliff. 
Breakfast, and a verj grateful farpwell to our host, 
and we embarked again ; sailed pleasantlj past Zocco- 
lante, and in two hours reached Veglia. 

In the afternoon, the steamer arrived from Fiume, 
bound to Lussingrande in the island of Osaero. As 
we pursued our voyage tbrough the Quarnerulo, the 
sea gleomed with ali the buee of a peacock's neck ; 
to our right, the great Monte Maggiore, in Istria, 
towered above the hills of Cherso; to ourleft, the 
snow-capped peaks of Croa&ia glowed in that heavenlj 
pink which barely aeems to bek>ng to this world. 
Soon, black Point Colnach, the southern extramity of 
.Cherso, rose close to us ; seamed and scarred rocks, 
£wiated and coojtorted as if by magic; wliile a few 
tali pines stood out in strong relief against the golden 
vestern sky, The goat bell rang from the little 
Island of Palaziol, as the long white wave rippled 
on its shpre ; and then to our right oame into view 
the green, but feverish island of Ossero. Night fell 
around us as we began to run along its eastern coast, 
and about ten we čast anchor in the harbour of 
Lussingrande. "We had the Captain's leave to sleep 
on board, contrarj, by the way, to the Companj's 
usual custonv 

I have not yet mentioned the printed regulationa 
for the behaviour of passengers, wb>ch read well 
enough in the stilted solemnity of the Greek. They 
are appealed to, W9 av0pw7roi *a\£? avaTeOpa/JLfievoi, to 
behave well els to <pv\op (r^epoi) an odd double eipres- 
sion; either phrase to be translated — the eex. And 
in the saloon it is forbidden va jca«W£n t*» k*ttv6v and 



108 TEGLIA, OSSEEO, AKĐ 

6Bpecially for gentlemen eltep^etrOai €*? tcl* icafiepas twv 
Kvpiiop (heairotvtuv). 

At four next morning, I went on deck, and found 
that we were lying in a sinall bay, surrounded by an 
amphitheatre of vineyards, and spotted with a few 
white houses to our right. This was Lussingrande, 
a very insignificant place. "We pulled round the 
point of the bay, to the right, to get pratique, and 
after Bome difficulty, were graciously allowed to con- 
tinue our voyage. Eowing along the coast for a mile 
further, we again landed, and, mounting a steep bili, 
found that we had crossed the island of Ossero ; here 
not more than three-quarters of a mile broad. Its 
western side is indented, like its eastern, by a bay ; 
but Lussin-piccolo is a very important place ; next to 
Fiume, the most important in Croatia. The Cathedral 
stands high on the hill to your right, as you descend 
to the town ; on that to the lef t are most of the 
Cathedral. consukr residences. The best houses 
Lussin- štand round the quay ; the bay is admir- 
piccolo. ft ^ e ftg ft } iar b ourj a^a freq U ented by 

steamers from Trieste. The island Ossero is about 
eighteen miles long, and nowhere more than two, 
seldom than one, broad. To the north-east, it is 
separated from Cherso by a yery narrow strait, the 
Viaia. It contains five villages; Neresne to the 
north ; then S. Giacomo ; then Chiunschi ; then the 
capital ; last of ali, Lussingrande. It forms a deanery 
in the diocese of Parenzo-Pola, but has no Glagolita 
parish. 

Ossero, which gives the island its name, is, oddly 
enough, a village in Cherso, just opposite to the 



TO ŽABA. 109 

island called from it. In the north, Mount Ossero ; 
in the south, Mount Calvario, are fine objects ; but 
the island is, generally speaking, unhealthy. 

Lussinpiccolo is rather an imposing place; the 
population atnounts to 7,000. The steamer by which 
we were to continue our voyage, was already in the 
harbour ; but was not to start for three hours. After 
breakfasting at a decent coffee house on the quay, I 
bent my way, up a series of steps with broad landing 
places between each staircase, to the plat- 
form on which the Cathedral — it has long 
ceased to be so — stands. A large, spacious, modem 
church, with ambones ; the marbles very beautiful. The 
tower, as usual, to the north of the nave. There was 
at 630 a.m., a fair congregation ; masa going on at a 
side altar. 

"We went on board the steamer, and soon saw a 
very pretty sight. The little battery fired a single 
cannon ; forthwith, the bells of the Cathedral clanged 
out, answered by a perfect storm of bell-inusic from 
chapels in the town. Presently, over the quay 
at the lower end of the Cathedral staircase, gleamed 
a silver cross ; then čame acolytes, deacons, priests, 
— the Dean of Lussin, — girls' schools, boys' schools. 
And presently rose the sounds, so lusciously sweet 
to hear, so rude and barbarous in their western 
clothing : 

Bij dan nami, rodyen nami 
Od Diexi$c& neoc^zargnen«, 

Sfeta Zakon besiedami 

Vierhiem prossu ;— i ucknene 

Potajnostij* doyarscio 

Redom cudmem, kakoj'htio : 



110 VEGLIA, OS8EE6, JlSTD 

bć. the Nobi* đatus, Hobis natus of S. Thomafi's great 
hyran, 

Priests, BenedictineB, Frandscan£ df tb6 third 
Dlvrian Order, Briđgettraes, scbools, and erowd, — thtey 
ali poured into a chapel on the quay, wbich it 
s&emed marvćllousf e'euld coatain so many ; and they 
had not finished the Lauda Sion Sahatofem — I knew 
it by it& melody— when otrr paddles plougbed tip the 
quiet bay, and \*e stood out tor sea. 

^. The little islarid of JSantego, grfceri and 

Sa ** 6g0 -~ fertife, lay to otir right. The chu*ch 
seera*of Flam%oyant date; the* windows wor*thless ; 
but th$ sbutk dobr gbtod. The rivet-like* passage 
befcween the soutbern part of Ossero to the lefb, and 
the island of S. Pietro de Nembo to the right ; agairi, 
between the latter and Asinaria, is very lovely ; dar k, 
juttmg rocks, at the foot of whieh the blufr Quarnero 
heaves and laughs : pines arching themselres half-dovm 
the f precipice ; erag-hawks wheeling and screaniing 
for joy round the peaks ; đappled goats bonnding 
from rock to roek; the goat-herb?s pipe, scrannel 
enough, I dare say in itself, coming mellowed by the 
distance. 

And no# the s& bečomes spottćd ^rith islandff. 
Straight a-head is Selve ; we shall land there prešently ; 
to the left is Ulbe. Far before us, the clustering 
Dalmatian groups seetn to be solid land : patience, 
and they will open out. In the meantime, we are 
running along flat, dull Selve- " Stop %er ! — and who 
is for shore ?" " Captain Knezevitch, is there time to 
go ashore ? " "I suppose I must make it for you; 
there, — that is the way to the chureh." 



TO ŽARA. 111 

Selve is our first Dalmatian lanđ. It 
forms the most important deanerj in the 
diocese of Žara. Itself is Latin, but most of its 
đependent parishes are Glagolita ; the old rite hangs 
about the islands longer than in the mainland. The 
church consists of square chancel, nave, aisles to 
the latter ; Venetian tower,* south of nave. Choir, 
modernised; nave, of seven bays; pointed arches, 
octagonal piers, circular bases, octagonal capa. The 
font, a hexagonal cylinder. "West door, of five arches, 
rather elaborate Flambovant. But they are getting 
the anchor up. Now, men, pull ; — I know it is hot j 
but you shall be paid well ! ¥e leap on board as tha 
paddles begrn to turn. 

And now then, what glorious beauty in this archi- 
pekfgo, rismg from the deep purple sea ! That white 
rounded rock, apparently quite bare of vegetation, is 
Pusgnac : this peaked crag, nearest of ali to us, is 
Tovaria ; the larger island, where you can just make 
out a white vi 11 age between two pine groves, is Milada ; 
to be distinguished carefully from the more famous 
Meleda, of which I shall have more to say by-and-by. 
And now to our left, the sunny Croatian mountains 
take a sudden sweep to the east, separating that 
province frora Dalmatia ; while the Dalmatian coast, 
as far as we see it yet, is flat and grey, hardly rising 
above the sea-line. Next, the eastern horizon is 
bounded by the Tsola Grossa or Lunga ; between it 
and ourselves, the island Uglian rises precipitously 
from the water ; the strait contracts ; and you see the 
spires of Žara, as the crown of the promontorjr 
which juts from the mainland, a mile ahead of us. 
But Žara requires another chapter. 



112 
Chapteb VII. 

ŽABA: SEBENICO. 

The vessels of the Austrian Lloyd's ruu with such 
extreme regularitj between Trieste and Cattaro, and 
usually stay during such a very convenient time at the 
principal cities en route, that nothing is more agree- 
able than to avail oneself of their system. It will not 
be necessarj to describe the particular course of our 
wanderisgs further than this : that we made our 
way from Žara by the "Littoral " to Cattaro, seeing 
what we could of the inner islands, and returning from 
Cattaro by the outer islands. 

It may not be amiss to give a general idea of the 
yoyages of these admirable ships. The passage is 
delightful ; the sea is usually so sheltered as to be 
lake-like. The captains, who speak German, French, 
and Italian, besides Illvrian, are eager to do ali in their 
power to accommodate a stranger, and readv to give 
every information on a route where every half hour 
brings a new island or scoglio into notice. 

The routes are these : — 

A. Trieste — Fiume. 

Boat leaves Trieste every Tuesday and Saturday at 
6 a. M. Eunning along the Istrian coast, and touch- 
ing at Pirano, Umago, Citta Nova, Parenzo, it reaches 
Eovigno at 2 p.m. ; Easana at 3*45 ; Pola at 6 p.h. 
At Pola it lies tili 10 p.m. Pursuing its way, it 



ŽARA AND 8EBENIC0. 113 

doubles the southern point a little before miđnigbt : 
crosses the Gulf of MedoliDO, enters the Quamero, 
and goes into the harbour of Cherso at 3*30 a.m. 
At 7, it touches at Malinski, in the north of Veglia, 
then stands north across the Bay of Fiume, and reaches 
that city at 9 p.m. ; twenty-seven hours, including stop- 
pages, from Trieste. It returns from Fiume at 5 p.m. 
every "Wednesday and Sundav, reaching Trieste at 
8 p.m. on Thursdaj and Mondav. 

B. Fiume — Žara. 

Boat leaves Fiume at 3 a.m. every Saturday, calls 
at Zengh, on the Littoral, at 7*15 ; Besca Nuova, (S. E. 
of Veglia) 8*15 ; the island of Arbe at 11 ; then cross- 
ing the Quarnerulo reaches Lussin-grande on the east 
coast of Ossero at 1*15 ; Val Cassione at 5 15 p.m. ; 
Žara, 7*45 p.m. It leaves Žara every Mondav at 
3 a.m., and reaches Fiume at 7*45 p.m. the same 
day. 

C. Trieste-Cattaro line. 

Boat leaves Trieste every Tuesday 4 p,m., 



i Lussinpiccol 


o Wednesday 


5 A.M. 


Stops 3 hours. 


Selve 


» 


1030 A.M. 




Žara 


»r 


2*30 p.m. 


Stops 13 hours. 


Sebenico 


Thursđay. 


9 A.M. 


M *ff „ 


Spalato 


» 


6 P.M. 


9> 9 » 


Macarsca 


Friday 


7 A.M. 




Curzola 


» 


12 noon. 


» 1 » 


Eagnsa 


>* 


7*30 p.m. 


„ 11 „ 


Megline 


Saturday 


1015 A.M. 


„ 1| « 


Perasto 


» 


1 P.M. 




Cattaro 


n 


2 P.M. 





Returns from Cattaro, Sunday, 8 a.m. ; reaches Trieste Thursđay. 

D. Dalmato-Albanese. 

Boat leaves Trieste every Saturday noon, 



114 Z4BA AND SEBENICO. 

Reaches Zora Sunday 5 a.m. Stops 5 hours. 
„ Sebenico „ 5*30 p.m. v 12 „ 
„ Sprflato Monday 9*30 a.m. „ 2| „ 
„ MUna „ l-jfljO p.m. „ 1 , ; 
„ Lešina „ 4*30 P.M. ^ 1 „ 
„ Curzola „ 9*30 P.M. 
„ Gravoea Tuesdav 4 a.m. 
„ Perasto „ 6*30 p.m. 
„ Cattaro „ 6.45 p.m. 
Leaves Cattaro Wednesday, and reaches Corfu Fridav. 
, Leaves Cattaro every Tuesdav, 6 a.m. 
Reaches Trieste „ Saturdav, 5 A.M. 

The c| Pyroscaphs " of the Dalmato-Albanese line 
as being the stronger, take the outer islands; the 
Trieste-Cattaro the inner. 

These times were arranged in June 1857, and were 
kept to in the May of the present year. Singularly 
enough, the hours of arrival are not published : the 
little JUneraHo Maritimo simply gives the days. I 
have printed the hours as I copied them into my own 
Itinerario from the official book of an Austriau Lloyd's 
clerk. 

It was on a Wednesday, at 2 p. m. that we čast 
anchor off Žara. A very picturesque city is the capital 
of Daknatia, seen from the water, and crowded within 
its Venetian walls. The low hills round it were baking 
in the excessive fervour of an Adriatic si^i, but the 
distant heights of Vellebitchi looked cool and pleasant. 
We entered by a gate that carries the lion of S. Mark, 
and found ourselves in the narrow lanes, so cool, and 
yet so close; every door shut, scarcely an inhabitant out 
of doors ; the whole place given up to its siesta. When 
will the churches be open ? Signor, at 4. When will 
the booksellers' shops be open ? Signor, at 4. Can 



VAJBUL ARD 8ABEHI00. 115 

we get any ice ? Signor, at 4. "We whiled away tbe 
two hours by ezploring tbe ezterior of the public 
buildings. Tbe sea-gate, called tbe Porta di S. Gri- 
sogono, is Eoman; but it was brougbt from (Enona. 
Tbe inscription is — . 



MELIA. AffNIAlTA. IH. MEMOR. Q. LJEPIOI. Q. V. SERO. BASSI. 

MABITI. SVI 
IMPORIVM. STEBM. ET. ABCUM. FIEB1. ET. 8TATUA8. 8UPERIM- 
PONI. 

TEST. JVS8. EX. IIS. DCDXXI . . . . 



Tbe population of Žara is about 7,000. Two 
Corinfchian columns exist; one at the Fiazza della 
Erbe — tbis bas tbe cbains still remaining by wbicb 
prisonera were bound to it. The other is by 
S. Simeon's. 

The principal bookseller is tbe firm of Brattara, 
brothers ; wbo bave ezcellent founts botb of Latin and 
Cjriliic4yp^fr. He^e J spent, pne daj, two most agree- 
able hours, making inquiries with respect to llljrian 
literature, and purchasing ecclesiastical books. Two 
of tbe works published by tbem are very useful for 
the stranger in Žara. They are, Professor Potter's 
Compendio Geografico della Dahnazia : tbe other a more 
brochure, SulV Architettura delle Chiese di Žara, del 
JProfessor Georgio Vonbank. 

I will first speak of the Cathedral, of which the 
accompanying plate represents the western fasade. 
The cathedral, metropolitical, and primatial church of 
Žara was ereoted in the thirteenth century by the 
French and Venetian crusaders, as a propitiatory 

i 2 



116 



ŽABA JlBD 8EBENIC0. 



offering for their sacrilegious* đestruction of many 
churches in tbis same city. It is a normal specimen of 
Lombardo-Bomanesque, and was consecrated iu 1285. 




Žara 
Cathedral. 



It is of the simplest plan. Chancel and nare, both 
with aisles. Tower north of choir. 

The apse is semi-circular,and quite plain. 

The altar štanda at its west end under a 

baldacbin; erected in 1322. The four piers, 

1 2 

3 4 

are ali circular on square base. 1, is chevronnće, and 

* The letters of Innocent III. to Dandolo and his companions, 
• on the occasion of the capture of Žara, may be seen in Bajnaldus, 
1202. iii, iv. 



SJJtA AND BBBEKIOO. 117 

very much resembles those in the Galileo at Durham ; 
2 is worked in spiral mouldings ; 3 is checkie; 4 is 
wrougbt in circular bosses, with interstitial flowers. 
The arches are concealed with paltrj red hangings, as 
we shall find in most of the Dalmatian churches. The 
arches themselves are pointed ; the vaulting is quite 
plain. The bishop's seat, at the east end of the sjn- 
thronus, remains, with two arms. On each side of the 
choir are sizteen stališ, elaborate earlj arabesque, with 
subsella. At the top of the canopy work over each 
is a little semi-figure holding a scroll with the name 
k of the stali. The pavement of the choir is rather 
inferior mosaic. It is raised on a crypt, with the usual 
arrangement ; a central ascending staircase ; two side 
descending flights of steps. Of this I will speak 
pre8ently. 

The choir-aisles bave three bajs. The piers of the 
central arch are circular, with square base, and Corin- 
thianizing capitals. Those to the east and west are 
six-clustered. 

The nave has seven bays; the caps square and 
Corinthianizing. 

The piers themselves — 




2 4 « [\p 

8 Circular. 

5 Circular, voluted. 

Ali these have the most wretched red hangings. 



118 ZABA AKD BEBS1TI0O. 

The roof is now flat oeiled. The apse arch and 
chancel arch very plain. The aisle windows are 
blocked. There are three very small clerestorj lights 
over each arch ; over these is a series of vile modem 
stable window8, large semi-circles. 

In the north chancel aisle, nearlj blocked off from 
the choir, I thought the following modem tableta 
worth copjing : 

Alex. III. Pont. Opt. Maz. 

Anno 1177 

Saper eqaum album 

Jaderam ingređienti 

Canticis Hljricis a clero ealntato 

Septikrom S. Anagtaai» invuenti 

et colenti. 



Valerio Episcop. Jadr. 

qui cnm aliis patribns Palladium damnavit et Joviniantim : 

Lampridio de Gallelia Jadr* 

qni anno 1146 metropolitano titulo ac jmv«nam ditavit ecclesiam : 

Petro de Malapnaris Jadr. 

qui, ad Dei cultum augendum, anno Đ. 1395, capitntam restituit : 

Maphseo Vallareao Venet 

qui šaralo XT turrim strast, templum reatanravit 

ornavitqne : 

atqne piissimo Bernardo Claio Veneto 

et doctissimo Vincentio Zmaievitch Antibarensi, 

quorum alter sceculo rvii. ad Latinoe, 

alter seqnenti seculo ad Illvrioos dericos 

Seminaria fandaverant 

Fabricse a eonsilio III viri 

PJP. 

Of these seminaries we shall presentlj hear some- 
thing more. There is another tablet to S. Anaatasia, 
the patron of the church. 
The crvpt i» very singular. Answering in its 



ŽABA A2TD BKBtNIĆO. 119 

circular east end to the superincumbent edifice, it has 
three smali oblbng slite for windows. Four piers 
curve round the eastern end of the apse ; they have 
circular shaffcs on square base, and heavy square capa. 
In one of these piers is a grated aperture, as if for relics. 
The original altar remains now utterly desecrated. 
In the front is a female figure, with long hair over the 
breast, and holding two trees, or poles ; the legend, so 
far as a wretched taper allowed me to see, Santa Ašsa. 
The crjpt itself has seven bays; the second being 
. distinguished by the pointed tympana of the arches. 
Of ali this, Potter and Vonbank say nothing ; and 
Sir Gk Wilkinson sćarcely mentions the crypt. The 
sacristan told me that the Emperor was about to 
have it restored. I hope that the restoration may be 
wbrthy of the place ; a most remarkable and valuable 
example of such a crypt. Having madel these notes, 
I gladly rejoined my companion in the nave ; and we 
attended the first vespers of the coming festival (Holy 
Thursday). There was a fair attendance of Canons, a 
few scholars from the seminaries, and a good number 
of poor women. The choir waa in a wretched west 
gallery ; the service was well and reverently sung. 

The fbflowing Were my notes of the north side, 
externally ; the south side is only accessible from the 
seminary. It has seven bays, divided by Bomanesgue* 
like flat buttresses ; in each, an elegant, very acutely 
pointed trefoil. Above these is an arcade-passage of 
five arches to each bay ; arches circular, shaffcs octa- 
gonal with square cap. The clerestory is a succession 
of circular-headed arches, corbelled off, nebule-wise ; 
a very good and rich effect. 



120 ŽABA AKD 8BBEKI0O. 

The tower, built in 1496, is very massj, and rather 
clumsy, of three stages. The uppermost, a very low 
pyramidal head, with square apertures. The next, two 
large open belfry windows, the shaft circular, with 
square base and cap. The western fasade will be best 
described in the plate. The south side differs in no 
remarkable waj from the north, eicept in having one 
elegant rose. 

"We were extremely aniious to see Archbishop 
G-odeassi ; but he was in the countrj. We therefore 
called at the Zmaievitch Seminarj. This is the 
educational institution founded by that eicellent 
prelate, — he sat from 1713-1746, — for Hlyrian-speak- 
ing Priests. And thanks to our letter of recom- 
mendation, we received a warm welcome from the 
Very Eeverend Eector Demetrius Stipcevich. Of 
him, I made many inquiries with respect to the 
Glagolita rite ; with the result of which the reader has 
alreadv been made acquainted. In the eight classes 
of this institution are thirty-three students : juđging 
from their behaviour to ourselves, we are bound to 
speak highly of their courtesy and affability. One of 
them, by name John Mottussich, was so good as to 
accompany us in most of our other researehes. 

Hence we went to the Benedictine 

8 Maria. ^onvent of 8. Marta. The church stands 
backin a small court ; it is almost entirely 
modernised, but in the western facade is a small rose 
of siiteen trefoiled lights. The tower is, what would 
seem a usual position here, to the north of the church; 
and consists of four stages. The belfry stage has, 
under a low pyramidal head, four adjacent circular- 



ŽABA AHD BEBEKIOO. 121 

headed lights, set in a sunk panel. The second and 
third have each two seta of two circular-headed lights, 
divided by buttresses. The lowest stage is perfectly 
plain, but very high. This tower, though it possesses 
little beauty, is yet valuable, because the exact date 
is known. It was finished by Coloman, King of 
Hungary, in 1105, after he had conquered Dalmatia. 
The nunnery was founded, in 1066, by a sister of 
King Cresimir, of Croatia. 

Next to S. Grisogono. This, next to 
the Cathedral, is the most interesting g ^^ Kmo 
place in the city. They give it a date 
anterior to the ninth century ; and undoubtedly it is 
of very great antiquity. It consists simply of chancel, 
nave, and aisles, with tower at the north-west of the 
nave ; the whole arrangement much resembles that of 
the Cathedral. It is triapsidal. The central apse is 
perfectly plain and circular ; the choir, which consists 
of two bays, is approached by five steps ; the nave has 
five bays. The shafts are circular with square Corin- 
thianizing capitals ; the bases square, with heads at the 
corners. The vaulting shafts have been cut away ; as, 
I should have remarked, they were at the Cathedral. 
The aisle-apses are blocked from the interior ; the apse 
arches, however, remain, circular of two very simple 
square orders. The svnthronus is modem ; the roof, 
flat ; and there is no clerestory. The string above the 
arches, which are not in the least modernised, consists of 
an edge-wise chevron. The south side is very remark- 
able ; it is divided in twelve arches with voluted shafts. 
Standing at the east end, we find the triapsidal 
arrangement perfect: the side apges had one plain, 



122 ZAJti AJn> SEBBNIĆOV 

circular-he&đed light ; the central apse is pannelled in 
five divisions by four slender shaffcs, ali of them 
circular, with square base and square cap; some 
voluted. Above this is an etegarifc arcade like that 
df the side of the Cathedral, whicb seems to bave been 
a real triforium ; tbere are setenteen arches ; five of 
tbem eontain emall cfrcular-headed slite; the work 
is very pretty; the eastern gable of the arćhes iš 
nebulj. The western facade bas also its gable nebuly ; 
then an arcade of nine circular-headed lights; the 
centra! one twice as thick as the others, and alone- 
pierced. The door has a circular head, with four 
orders, and a frojectirig gable above. The tower te 
so much like that of the eathedral that a separate 
description te unnecesBarj. It was ereeted, as I said, 
in 1105 ; but must bate been much mođernised. 

Henće we went to the Greek church, Sk Elias, origi- 
rially a Latin building, and only givea up to the 
Greeks during the French invasion. P*eviously they 
had occupied one of its chapels alone. Here we dis- 
patched Dundich to inquire if we oould pay our 
respects to the Greek Bishop; and after a great many 
preliminary inquiries as to our object in so doing, we 
Were ushered up three long flights of stone steps to 
his reception-rbom. Steven Knezevitch has been 
Bishop sirice 1853 ; he is a remarkably mteresting 
person, tali and eommanding. He wore a rich black 
cafesock, scarlet stockinge, girđle, and skali cap, and a 
gold pećtoral cross. The seminary, in which he takes 
great mterest, has five good professors, and about forty 
studente. The head, or economue, as he te ćalled, of 
the elerical " eonViefc," where the young men bo&fd 



ŽABA A#D SBBStflOO. 128 

togetber, and are bound by certain regulations, is 
Sebastian Lukovitch. With sucb a diocese as Dal- 
matia, with its northern and southern extremities so 
far apart, and its priests scattered at sucb distance« 
from each other, the Bishop bas found it necessary to 
establisb a pro-vicar at Cattaro, wbo is Archimandrite 
at tbe Praskevitcb monastery; and whom I afterwards 
bad tbe pleasure of seeing. By wbat we could learn, 
tbe Oreek priests bave very mucb improved in attain- 
ments during tbe last twenty years ; and it is now a rare 
tbing to find one wbo is only acquainted witb Illyrian. 
The Protopopes especially are generally speaking 
of high attainments ; tbere are eigbt : respectively 
situated at Žara, witb 12,340 ortbodoz ; at Scardona, 
witb 12,092 ; at Knin, witb 18,620 ; at Sebe^ico, witb 
5,742; at Imoschi, witb 7,790; at Castelnovo, with 
12,347 ; at Cattaro, with 7,838 ; at Budua, witb 5,360. 
I see tbat, in tbe course of tbe preceding year, five 
deacons were raised to tbe priestbood, one clerk in 
inferior orders to tbe Diaconate, and one similar clerk 
botb to tbe Diaconate and to tbe priestbood; also tbat 
tbere were four deatbs among the priests, and two 
among tbe deacons. The total nnmber of souls wbo 
acknowledge tbe Bishop of Žara as tbeir prelate, is 
82,717; an increase of 2,000 in tbe two preceding 
years. I was particularly requested to observe 
the exceedingly higb morality of tbe people as shown 
by the authenticated lists of legitimate, and ille- 
gitimate birtbs ; and certainly it speaks very favonr- 
ably for the state of the Oreek Churcb in Dalmatia. 
Thus, in a sea-port town like Sebenico, always, of 
course, the least favourable example; against 242 



124 ŽABA AND SEBSKIOO. 

legitimate, there are but 3 illegitimate births; at 
Cattaro, against 221 of the former, only 1 of the 
latter ; at Budua, 137 of the former, and none of the 
latter. Even in the worst arch-presbytery, that of Žara, 
against 617 of the former there are only 20 of the 
latter. It must be remembered, however, that the 
Church which is in the minority mll always be purer 
than that which is the Establishment : it is very 
striking to see cottages scattered here and there, 
tenanted by orthodoz Greeks, who live among a Latin 
population, and who will pass the Latin church on 
the way to their own, to go for their sacraments six, or 
seven, or eight miles away. I asked the Bishop if the 
eitreme severity of the Greek fasts, when brought 
into contrast with the prodigious laiity of the Latin, 
did not diminish the number of his people ; he told 
me that he had no reason to attribute any such effect 
to that difference between the two churches. At the 
same time, in the wilder parts of the countrv, and 
especially among the Morlacchi, it is not easy to get 
an answer as to which communion they belong. The 
easiest method, after you have asked, — "Are you a 
Christian ?" is to proceed — " Show me which way you 
make the sign of the cross." 

Of the church of 8. Svmeon I have not much to say. 

It is the largest next to the Cathedral, and 
8. Simeon. ^vaida boldly and well ; but it is so much 

modernised as to have lost its interest. 
The shrine of the Saint beneath the High Altar, pre- 
sented by Elizabeth of Hungary, and completed in 
1380, at an ezpense of 42,000 florins, is a fine work of 
art, but so fenced and guarded that it is impossible to 



ŽABA AND BEBBNIOO. 125 

give an ecclesiological description. S. Simeon is Com- 
patron of the city. 

A very interesting expedition is to be mađe from 
Žara to the Išle of Uglian, which lies opposite: 
in a four-oared boat it takes about an hour. This 
island, about twelve miles in length, by two-and- 
a-half in breadth, has some very pretty scenery; 
tbe dark pines whicb surmount its crags give a 
peculiarlv Dalmatian eharacter to tbe landscape. 
Landing at Oltre, a miserable little village, with a 
modem church, you immediately begin tbe aacent of 
S. Michaers Hill, tbe saint bere, as everywhere else, 
of bigb places ; an ascent wbicb puts one in mind of 
tbe former part of tbat wbicb leads to the summit 
of Cader Idris from Barmouth. The hill itself 
cannot be more than 800 or 1,000 feet high. But 
from the summit there is sucb a view as I 
suppose very few localities of Europe could afford. I 
can never remember the time, since I was a child, 
that I had not a fancy for exploring those long queer 
shaped Illyrian islands; but most assuredly the 
reality surpassed any expectation my fancy might 
have formed. Standing at the foot of a mass of 
shapeless ruins called Fort S. Micbael, (among which, 
by-the-by, you may make out the triapsidal end of a 
very early church,) and facing north, yousee right 
across the little strait, Žara, crowded together on 
its promontory, a forest of masts rising from its 
harbours; immediately beyond it the Boccagnazza 
and the Malpaga lines of hills, with the great 
Vellebitchi mountains shutting in the horizon, here 
and there a dazzlingly white patch of snow on their 



128 ZABA AKJ> 8EBENIC0. 

houses ; and ađđressing a woman who was up to her 
elbow8 in soap-suds, told her wbat I was seeking, and 
promised her a florin if she could get a perfect col- 
lection then and there, of a Dalmatian peasant 
woman , s dress. In about half an hour we were sur- 
ronnded by women, bringing various articles of appa- 
rel, concerning which I only insisted that they ali should 
be new. A chair was brought out into the yard for 
the purpose of being vested ; and our good friend 
the canon, heartilj amused, made the selection of 
apparel, and drove our bargain. Meanwhile, every 
window in the houses *which overlooked the yard, was 
crowded with spectators ; and two ladies who čame on 
parochial business after the canon, expressed their great 
surprise at finding him thus engaged. It is miserable 
to see how, in the upper classes, the beautiful Dal- 
matian costume has given way to crinoline, and ali the 
second-rate finery of Pariš or London. The articles 
which I bought, and their priče, were as follows : they 
form the complete dress of a Dalmatian woman. 

1. The Kusulja, or shift, with square surplice-like 
sleeves, embroidered with red and green silk round 
the neck, and at the back of the arm, with a narrow 
line of red silk in front of the arm — A florins. The 
material, the very coarsest linen. 

2. The Bernijca. This is a dress of red or green 
moreen, of the coarsest kind, open in front, bound 
round the neck and arms with counter-changed green 
or red cloth ; and edged round the bottom in a similar 
manner. Thus the sleeves and front of the Kusulja 
are shown in contrast with it : 10 florins. 



ŽARA AND SEBENIOO. 129 

3. Kani9a. A girdle of thick, manj-coloured braid, 
tied in a knot at the left side : 1 florin, 34 cents. 

4. Bicque, or stockings of red worsted : 4 florins. 

5. Kappa. A cap of red cloth, embroidered ali 
round with black silk, with a short fringe on the 
forehead : 2 florins.' 

6 and 7. Oguza and Maitte ; neck riband and clasp, 
the clasp of silver gilt (but very often, even amongst 
the poorest peasants of gold, and sometimes jewelled) 
the riband of white linen, embroidered with gold, red 
and blue: 5 florins (but they are often worth 50). 

8. Kefizza, or purse, a small, flat, stiff bag of red 
and white worsted mixed with gold. This is tucked 
in between the Kusulja, and the Bernijca, so that the 
fringe just appears at the left side of the neck, 6c. 

9. Pregliazza, or apron, of worsted, as thick as 
carpet, striped horizontallj in different colours, and 
fringed half way down the sides and at the bottom : 
4 florins. 

10. Shoes of yellow, green, or red leather. The 
front of the Kusulja is, in the case of married women 
covered with a piece of red cloth ; but girls wear, at- 
tached to it, their future dowry in florins ; so that, in 
making your proposal to a Dalmatian peasant girl, you 
can teli at once how much money she will bring you. 

Having settled this important matter, we were at 
liberty to tura our attention to the churches of Sebenico, 
which I now proceed to describe : 

The Cathedral of Sebenico, of which the accom- 
panying is an external view, is, in its way, 
the most remarkable building I ever saw. c a thedral. 
It is a mkture of Flamboyant and Be- 



180 ŽARA AJTB SEBBHIOO. 

nftiBB&nce, which woulđ seem to paomise nothing bat 




imbecility of fliotfif, and OTergorgeousness of decora- 
tion. Whereas, in truth it is one eithe noblest, most 
•striking, most simple, most Ohristian of churches, 
and, though higbfy omamented, such is the sublimitjr 
of its design, that it gires you the irapression of being 
by no means richlj decorated. Both times that I saw 
it, I saw it under a great disadvantage ; it was under- 
going athorough (and very good) restoration, and the 
interior was filled with scaffolding. Of course, 
cathedrals, such as Pola, Parenzo, and Spalato, have 
a mnch deeper and more enthusiastic interest than 
anything which mere architecture can give. But 
in an exclusively architecturalview, I do not heaitate 



ŽABA AKD b»beni€0, 181 

to callthia the most interesting cburch in Dalmatia, 
And the more so on this account : that the whole idea 
and the details must štand or fali together. Tou 
could not translate it into Middle-Pointed. I have 
frequently made a mental attempt at doing so, and 
have every time felt that the task was imposaible. 

Thecathedral štanda at the north end of the city, 
and forma a somewhat conspicuoua object from the 
aea. it is dedicated to <S. James. The firat stone 
was laid by Bishop Giorgio Sisgorio, a native of 
Sebenico ^ and after being carried on by Urbano 
Fignaco, Luoa Tolentic r Prancesco Quirino, Bar- 
tolomeo Bonnio, and Giovanni Stafileo, but without 
any very great progress having been made, was 
continned in real earnest by Giovanni H-Lucie 
Stafileo, a native of Trau, who succeeded to the episco- 
pate in 1528, consecrated the nnished building on 
April 28, 15^5, and died in 15&7. In 1564 the first 
dioceean synod of Sebenico was eonvoked in it by 
Bishop Girolamo Saviniano, vho was one of the 
Faihers of Trent- The svnod must have been a small 
one r for, as we ahall see, from ithe present diocese of 
Sebenico, the then Biahoprics of Knin and Scardona 
must be subtracted. 

Let me describe it as welLaa I can- The apse, whioh 
k circular, has five sets of đouble trefoiled windows, 
with very elaborate tracery. The sacristy consists of 
one b&y r ascended by seven stepa, and fenced in by 
a low stone screen, the shafts, volute-wise, with 
Cerinthianizing capa. Now comes the choir, under a 
very lofty dome, and flanked on each side by a wide 
open apace, rather than ai&les. The stališ, which 

K 2 



132 ŽABA AND SEBENIOO. 

are of stone, are not divided. A very singular effect 
is given by the passages which run behind and above 
tbe stališ to tbe ambones ; tbe latter, as well as tbe 
passages themselves, bave Tails like tbose tbat inclose 
tbe sanctuarv. Tbecboir is ascendedby six steps. Tbe 
nave bas six bays : tbe piers circular, caps square 
and quasi-Bomanesque, pointed arcbes. The triforium 
is a square-beaded semi-classical arcade, tbe clerestory 
also renaissance ; under tbe former a very ricb flower 
moulding. The vaulting is lofty, of plain barrel : ex- 
ceedingly bold. Some of the stones wbich compose it 
are twelve feet by three feet sk. The west end 
bas an elaborate rose of 24 leaves; above tbat, a 
smaller one of twelve. The aisle-vaulting is simpljr 
crpss : some of tbe ribs voluted. The west door is 
exceedingly rich, but a very curious misture of cinque- 
cento and !Flamboyant. The crypt at the south of 
the choir is tbe baptistery. It is a circle, so to speak, 
inserted in a square ; eacb side of the square formed 
by a very rich arch-. circular sbafts, flowered caps. 
A classical shell conceals eacb of the foiir junctions. 
Above eacb of these is «ome of the noblest Flam- 
boyant work I ever saw. The font, merely classical, 
and supported by boys. The strangeness of this work 
culminates undoubtedly in the baptistery. 

Hence we went to Valle Verde, — a 

ValleTerde c ^ lurc ^ on *^ e outskirts of the city. 

It bas a flat panelled roof : in tbe 

centre, the Incoronazione. The arrangement not bad. 

In a western gallery of marble is this inscription : — 

Begum Bege J. C. Ao. 1629. đ. 23 Apr. Vmcentius 
Arrigonius Sibenecenus Episcop. Templiim hoc et altare 



ŽABA AND SEBBNIOO. 133 

maju* ad honorem Dei et Beatse Mari® Virginis 
includens in eođem Altari reliquias S. Joannis Bapt. 
S. Thom® Apostoli, et S. Barbare, Virgin., et Martyris, 
consecravit : curante Paulo Cassio 
snperiore.. 

The Madonna di Borgo wae perhaps an 
early church. Square chancel, nave, north ^j$°|^ 
cbapel; south tower detached, but. con- 
nected with the church by an arch. At the west enđ, 
a rose of eight leaves ; above it, a smaller one. A 
south door is dated 1509. The tower has four stages, 
with a pyramidal spire. 

"We then went to the Dominican Gonvent, founded 
in 1346, but entirelj modernised. Here we saw the 
Ascension Frocession start ; there seemed a great 
deal of devotion among the people. On a second 
visit, the Prior, Paolo Bioni, ex-Provincial of the 
Order, was exceedingly kind to me. While I was 
engaged in copying sequences, he ordered wine and 
biscuits to be served ; and here, as always, the good 
Fathers proved themselves excellent vine-cultivators. 
The church is on the motif of the Cathedral. 

The Francisean Gonvent I only saw by nigjht. It 
is saiđ ta have been founded, in 1320, by Adam, one 
of the original companaons of the great Patriarch of 
the Order. Some of the original work remains, 
e8pecially the cloisters on the south, very elegant. 
It was impossible to take a detailed account of this 
church,. because the eiposition of some celebrated 
relic was going on, and the whole was crowded with 
worshippers, aniious on their knees to kiss it. 

We also saw & Pasquale, outside the city to the 
west: and the Benedictine Nunnery of S. Lucia, 



134 zAftii mom trntomoG. 

finished in 1689. The sehobl inm shoim me by one 
of the Sisters, Maria Angel* Brazzefti ; it seemed in 
admirable order. 

We leffc Sebenico at noon, on a bright day. After 
winđing our way through the narrow canal of 
S. Antonio, we passed S. Nicolo to our lefb; the 
islanđ of Zlatni, or Slan, witb its fir groves, lying 
close to our right. It contain* abont 1840 inhabitants ; 
the ehurch, under the Invocation of Santa Maria 
Aastmta, is modem. Threading then our way between 
the tinj islands of Gherbuia and Deruvenika, both 
nninhabited, and eatching to the lefb, the little viMage 
tower of Crapano islanđ, we stood south-west, Mount 
Tartari bere pusbing out his giant rocks far into the 
sea. A dark, grim, pine-covered mountain he looked ; 
and the coast is bere iron-bound. Past the island of 
S. Siroeon; then between Smoquizza and the main; 
then Mastignac to our right, and the grey old rillage 
Of Cas Cesto to our lefb ; past the islands Simoskoi 
and Muja; doubled Cape S. Zuane, irith the monasterj 
towering out from one of the spurs of Tartari. 
After tbis, we leave the mainland for a wh3e, and 
pase between the large islanđ of Bua, of whieh I 
sball haye more to say, to the lefb ; and Šolta to the 
right. As we coast the latter, it looks lovelj in the 
deelining sun ; and one bay especiallj, Val de Mezzo, 
đweils on mj memorjr, even now, as a rare vision of 
beauty. Presentlj, bejond Point Pusniz in Bua, the 
littoral opens again, and far, far off, I catch the 
high tower of the once Temple of Jupiter, now the 
Cathedral Ohurch of Spalato. 



13& 



€h*pteb VIIL 

SPALATO. 



Tes, Spadato not Spalato; and still kas, as we se 
eommonlj find it written, Spalatro. The Harne is 
aimplj derived from the palače df Diocletian. 

And what were our thoughts, as we ran up tbe 
eaml of Sobas, and eveiy moment that great tower 
rose higher and higher p What but df poor Mark 
Antony de Dominis p 

Let me teli you, gentie reader, his -sad histo*y . 

Late in August, 1602, there čame news to Bome 
that tbe see of Spalato was yaeant. The Dominican* 
said a few masses for tbeir brotber Dominic 
Maresootti, of good memorj, late Arcbbishop; the 
Cardinals irnjuired what the place was worthj the 
Venetian ambassador was om tbe look out for instruo- 
tions? tbe canons of S. Jerome of tbe Uljrians in the 
Citj said that it was a shame to appoint any man not 
acquainted with tbe language. Several candidates 
were in the field : for to be Metropolitan and Primate 
of ali Dalmatra was something, thougb the see, tossed 
abovt as it kad beenfrom Constantinople to Hungarj, 
from Naples to Bosnia,from the Ban of Croatia to the 
Doge of Venice, was worth comparatively littla. In 



136 SPALATO. 

a few days, Cardinal Cinthio was waited on by the 
Bishop of Zengh;* his name, Mark Antony de 
Dominis. He bad the votes of the Chapter in his 
favour ; an Hlyrian by birth, he could speak the lan- 
guage nuently ; the Serene Eepublic was not averse ; 
he would endeavour to do his« duty if promoted, and 
he hoped for his Illustrious Reverence'st protection. 
He was introduced to the Pope ; and the Consistorial 
Acts teli us that, on the 15th of November, M. Ah- 
tony was absolved from his bond to the Church of 
Zengh, and. translated to Spalato.. 

Before this, however, it began to be whispered that 
the Archbishop had some singular views- He was 
bent on residence and hard work. He had certain 
uncomfortable notions on the immediate derivation of 
episcopal authority from Christ, and he absolutely 
declared his intention of preaching every day of the 
ensuing Lent to his people. The thing was ceally 
outr-e ; nobody ever did so now; ha might preach, 
after celebrating pontifically, now and' then, if he liked, 
but a daily sermon was impossible.. " Why so ?*' in- 
quired De Dominis* "Chrysostom and Gregory could 
do it, why not I ? " " But no one knows in what vest- 
ments you ought to preacV they persisted. , "Then 
I will find out," was the rejoinder. And accordingly, 
" The Sacred Congregation of Eites repUed,. that he 
must preach in his ordinary and every daj habit, in 

* Zengh, in Austrian Croatia is the place of which I have 
spoken above. The reader must not confound the Episcepus 
Seniensis with the Ep. Senensis (Sienna) or Signinns (Segni in 
the Campagna.) De Dominis's doings at Zengh are supplied by 
Farlati, Illyr. Sacr. iv. 137. 

f The title of Eminence was first given by Urban TIH.. 



BPALATO. 137 

rochet aaAmozzetta'mth stole, unless he has ceiebrated 
High Mass previously r ia which case the form of the 
ceremonial is to be observed; and tbus it declared 
Nov. 13, 1602." 

Đe Đominis did not, however, get bis see witbout 
having a pension assigned tbereon of five bundred 
ducats to bis competitor Andreucci, wbo soon after 
was made Bisbop of Traugurium, and so one of tbe 
suffragans of Spalato. News presentlj čame to Eome 
of a furious quarrel between these two. The Arch- 
bisbop refused to pay the pension for a vear of pesti- 
lence, tbe Bisbop insisted on ali. Đe Đominis found 
himself suspended from bis fnnctions by tbe Auditor 
of tbe Apostolic Chamber, and tbis occurred on two 
different occasions from tbe same cause. Seques- 
tration from tbe pastoral office gave more time for 
study, and no doubt tbe foundations of the De Repub- 
licd EcclesiastioA were laid in that retirement. "Here 
am I,' r reasoned De Đominis, u a primate, in' a eounilij 
wbere Pastoral superintendence is, if any wbere r essen- 
tial, suspended on account of a debt wbich was at first 
made so in violation of tbe canons, — and is now en- 
forced in spite of tbe facts. And yet we talk of tbe 
equality of Eishops, and claim to hold discipline un- 
cbanged from primitive times !:" And who sball say 
tbat he did not reason aright? Granted that Đe 
Đominis was somewhat of an arcbsBologist, had be not 
provocation enougb in? a piece of oppression which 
endangered the souls of bis flock, to confirm bim in 
bis primitivism ? And when shortly afterwards, be 
issued twenty-two constitutions for his diocese, and 
the Sacred Congregation either absolutely, orpartially, 



138 SPilLATO^ 

annulled eighteen, must he not have contrasted hir 
own situation witb that of the eariier bishopsv wboaa 
names were a* bis household words ? 

Soon after Andreucci and bis Metropolitan had 
another contest, wbicb (whoever were'right on the point 
disputed, tbe condemnation of some clerks by tbe 
former, and tbeir absohition by tbe latter), bringa out 
tbe earlj sjstem of trae metropoHtical powers a« 
8trongly beld by the Primate, and brings out, alao, a 
great deal of unseemly violence on the pari of botb. 
"Saul, Saul,"* — thus the" Arcbbishop commencea — 

" Why persecatest thou me ? It is hard for thee to kick against 
the pricks. Have you not yet lost your military špirit, — though 
by a leap you passeđ from the sword to the pastoral staff? Away, 
my brother, away with earthly conversation,— and now at length 
easting aside the warfare of this world, enroll jourself after a far 
diiferent sort in the armies of Cheist. Put on the manners, the 
arms, the špirit that become a soldier, nay, rather, a general and 
prsefect of Chbist. lf it seem intolerable to you that you are in 
subjection to me, seek another see ; and that not any other, but 
tbe Supreme and Apostolic, if you would pay obedience to none. 
Confound not, my brother, I pray you, the order of Eodesiaatieal 
Hierarchy/* 

Ali througb one sees the character of the man : 
resolute, and indeed, overbearing in defence of a prin« 
ciple; naturally falling back on early ezamples, and 
living more m primitive times tban bis own; dtspoaed 
to make no allowance for tbe altered condition of bis 
own church, and abborring development. Having 
occasion to rebuild tbe cboir of bis cathedral, be rein- 
troduced tbe synthronus; and being blamed for raising 

• Farlati, Blyria Sacr. tom.iii. p. 489. 



s*iiAfO. 138 

hiinself higher than the altar, he* laefr ttoe objection by 
erecting over the latter a most ponderous ciborium. 

He soon gave another proof of hia wiah to return 
to primitiTe use. The clergj of Spalato were in a 
very eorrupt state \ and a fresh element of di£nculty 
was to be found in the use of the two languages, 
Latin and Hljrico-Slavonic. A priest onlj acquainted 
with the former was perhaps sent into a parish where 
the latter wa» emploved; or viče versđ. Now, it 
needeđ not Đe Dominis's readmg to be aware that, 
in earlj times, no one was admitted into the lists of 
the clergv without having the Toice of the people in 
favour of his general goođ character and fitness for 
the office. But ©Ten the Arehbishop dared not 
venture on this; he, therefore, čast about for an 
eipedient that might reconcile primitive strictness 
and modem laxity. At last he hit on the plan that 
ali candidates for Holy Orđers should undergo an 
ezamination before the Chapter, — and that on its 
result a ballot should be taken. This seemed to pro- 
duce good effects ; but, in two jears, the Arehbishop 
proceeded. much further. He now ordered that ali 
the priests (I suppose of the city, not of the diocese) 
should be ' discussed ' by the Chapter on oceasion of 
every orđination, and that such as were thought 
unworthy of their office should. be suspended. This, 
it need not be said, is as mueh opposed to primitiTe 
as to ultramontane custom. Hence curious records 
in the Chapter Actg. For example : — 

" And 80 the Clerk, Gregory đe Beneđictis, tras first discussed ; 
arid he had ali the votes, namelj fourteen, in his farom*, and none 
against him. Francis OrnBo had, in like manner, ali the votes in 



140 8PALATO. 

his favour, and none against him. Innooent Chahich hadthirteen 
votes against him, and one in his favour. The said Innooent was 
excluded from the Clergv. Frančis Manoli had ftrelve votes 
in his favour, and two against him, &c." 

It is only wonderful that the excluded' clergy đid 
not appeal to Some. 

In the meantime, Đe Dominis wa& wearied out 
with the usurpations and encroachments of the apos^ 
tolic see, and meditated the bold step of leaving his 
post, and throwing~ off her jurisdiction. That he did 
not act hastilv, though he might have acted injudi* 
ciously, cannot be denied. His three enormous folios 
de Repnblicd Ecelesiasticd were published in 1617 : 
and could hardly have been commenced later than 
1607. In the meantime, his sermons, to which 
multitudes thronged, contained expressions, bolder 
and bolder, against Roman supremacy, tili at length 
a hearer exclaimed, at the conclusion of one of his 
assertions on that subject, " You lie in your throatJ' 
It was more than whispered that the Archbishop was 
a heretic ; and that steps ought to be taken to procure 
his deposition- Let us see what was his< own state of 
mind : — 

"From the Episcopate I was raised to the Archiepiscopate. 
Hence, a new and more urgent occasion of renewing my studies 
(of the Fathers as contradistinguished from later writers), and of 
labouring with greater zeal and energy in them. For when the 
troubles occasioned me by my suffragans, and, much more,, the 
excessive power of the Roman Court, threw every metropolitical 
right into confosion, I found it necessarv to investigate the root 
and origin of ali ecclesiastical degrees, powers, offioes, and dignities 
—and especially of the Papacy. Than čame the interdict of 
Venice. The books, written on bebalf of Bome, treated us, 
Bishops of the Venetian dominiona, as rude and unlearned beasta. 



BPALATO. 141 

Hence, -to finish imy đefence, and to oome to the truth of the 
Venetian matter, a fresh occasion of new and more vigorous 
study. The sacred and ancient Canons, the orthodox Councils, 
the discipline of the Fathers, the former cuBtoms of the Church, 
ali passed in review before me. I found in these, and these only, 
that for which I was looking, and fer more than I had expected 

to find It was once an article of faith that the 

Univeraal Church, scattered throoghout the world, is that Catholic 
Church of Cheibt, to which Chbist himself has promised His per- 
petual presence, and which Paul calls the pillar and ground of the 
truth. Onr present Romana have contracted this article, so that 
hy the Catholic Church they understand the Roman Court, and in 
that, or rather in the Pope alone, the whole špirit of Chbist 
resides. And whatever has at any time been said in honour of 
the Catholic Church, they, with the utmost force and injury, cir- 
cumscrihe to the Court of Rome."* 

A man who could thus think, and who was accus- 
tomed to speak out, must have found Spalato no safe 
place. Accordingly towards the conclusion of 1615, 
he Buddenly went to Venice, probably undetermined 
what future oourse to pursue. In what immediatelj 
followed, some secret springs of action must have 
been involved, which it is now impossible to detect. 
Eome could not have been ignorant of De Dominis's 
sentimenta. Tet we find him resigning his see to his 
kinsman, Sforza Ponzoni, and Paul V confirming the 
deed : and still the ex-prelate retained the title of 
Archbishop of Spalato in ali his works. A touching 
epistle of his to the Spalatese is still extant, in which 
he maintains his attachment to the Catholic faith, — 
upbraids them with their cruel misapprehension of 
his teaching, and earnestlj prajs them to elect for 
their new Archbishop some one who should be ac- 
quainted with the Illvrian language. 

* De Republici Christ. tom. i. § 8 of the unpaged Introduction. 



142 BPALAIO. 

At Venice, Đe Dominis became acquainted with 
the English ambassađor ; and hence Eoman writers 
take occasion to reproach him with having sold his 
faith and soul for a pension ; just as English writera 
accuse him of returning to Bome because his pro- 
motion was lesa than he had expected. Bitter 
words and cruel insinuations are, however, no proofs. 
Granted that Spalato was not an opulent see, — stiU 
its wealth was greater than auything whioh Đe 
Dominis could reasonablj expect in a foreign eountrj. 
Besides, witfr his learning and talenta, to which &uqh 
amplo justiee* i*.done by his adversaries, to what 
might he not aspite ? To any Venetian see y — to the 
" Patriarchate" or mjenice, — to a Cardinalate, — why 
not to the Papacy itself ? And in England, too, with 
his known sentiments on the necessiftj of a prelate 
speaking the language of his flock, — how could he 
even wish for a bishopric P No ; — doubtless the 
ambassađor, aware that such a secession would bring 
great credit to his church, sounded the Archbishop's 
mind, and framed his suggestions accordingly. De 
Dominis spoke of the primitive model. " The very 
thing," cries his Excellency, "to which we have 
reformed onrselves. Look — here, in the canons, — and 
here, in the rubrics, — and here r in the ordinal, — we 
refer to it expressly." The Archbishop spoke of the 
innovations of Bome. " We reject them ali," cries 
the Ambassađor. " No denial of the chaHee — no 
shameless sale of indulgences — no reserves — no an- 
nates — no bishops by the grace of the apostolic see — 
no pallium — no interdicts." De Dominis spoke of 
sees in commendam, bishops that had ten cathedrals, 



a?AXiA£a 143 

and had never seen one ; cardinals that heaped up 
canonries, and deaneries, and abbacies of distant 
land& "Ali those corruptions gone too," says liis 
Excellency. Then as to the election of bishops,— how 
was that ? " By the Dean and Chapter," replies the 
Ambassador, "after invocation of the Holt Ghiosi ;" 
—the Tecommendation and promunire being conve- 
niently drppped. And eo, little by little, the mind 
of De Dominis seems to have been filled with visions 
of a Primitive National Church, holding the catholie 
faith in its fullness, and yet rejecting ali the novelties 
of the Roman Court. Two things more may be 
observed. The first, that a vernacular service would 
occasion no difnculty to the Archbishop, himself ac- 
customed to the Illyric Missal and Breviary. The 
second, that in close contact with the eastern church, 
a married clergy would not shock his prejudices. He 
resolved, then, to fly to England. But this was not 
so easily done. 

On the 23rd of August, 1616, he received the agree- 
ment of the Pope to the election of Ponzoni, together 
vfiih a pension of 700 ducats. The reason of this 
unusual favour to a suspected man must remain 
a mystery. At the beginning of Septp mber, he left 
Venice, giving out that it was his intention to visit 
the principal cities of Ita!y. By slow journeys he 
bent his course to the^Grisons ; and from Coire, in the 
middle of October, he addressed a short letter to the 
Doge, in which he stated his sentiments on the usurp- 
ations of Bome, explained that he could neither live 
safely nor rule freely vrhen within the influence of 
that Court, professed his unaltered affection to the 



144 SPALATO. 

Eepublic, and said, — " This my necessary secession is 
so far from involving a secession from the holy, pure, 
uncorrupted, Cafcholic and Apostolic Faith, that in 
its behalf I am ready to pour forth, not ink only, but 
my blood, and my life itself, if need shall require." 

Erom Coire he proceeded to Heidelberg, (where 
he published his ma profectionis consilium*) and 
thence to London. His arrival made a great sensa- 
tion. He was presented at court, reeeived as a guest 
byAbbot, visited Oxford and Cambridge, and was 
invited to assist at an episcopal consecration.f His 
first publication in England was his Scoglia del navr 
fragio Cristiano, but the De Bepublicd must have 
been put to press at once, because it appeared in the 
same year. This enormous work, containing upwards 
of 2,000 pageš, obtained an immediate European 
reputation.J Intricate and perplexed as is the 
style, unwieldy as is the learning, tedious as is the 
aggregation of references, it is nevertheless a mij^ia 
69 aei. It is a kind of quarry whence almosfc every- 
thing that can be urged against Ultramontanism may 
be extracted. That a work which would make twenty- 
four fair octavo volumes should be republished, is not 
to be expected; but still no English divine is ac- 

* This is printed at the beginning of the De Republici. There 
is an English translation, under the title of A Manifestaiion of 
the Motives, 6$c. published in London, by John Bili, 1616. It is 
very spirited, but so excessively free as to lead to the idea that a 
oorrected copy of the Latin must bave been used. 

f The consecration of Nicolas Pelton for Bristol. and George 
Montaigne for Lincoln, Dec. 14, 1617. 

X The sentiments which Cyril Lucar entertained of it, may be 
seen in the letters he addressed to De Dominis, as.given in 
my *' History of Alezandria," voL iL p. 390. 



SPALATO. 145 

quainted with ali that can be said for hi& own Church, 
who has not studied this book» We have an afortiori 
of 230 years since its puMcation, but that does not 
diminish its value. It obtained for its author the 
Mastership of the Savoy r and the Dea&erj of Wind- 
sor. 

There is no great difficulty in tracing the 
workings of Be Dominis's mind, which terminated 
in his leaving England. This national church: that 
had reformed itself on the primitive model, in the year 
after \m arrival sent delegates — dne of them too a 
bishop— to the synod of Dort. The acts of that as- 
sembly were not precisely those of S. Cyprian or of 
S. Đasil. Abbot, perhaps the worst archbishop that 
ever fiiled the chair of Canterbury, carried matters 
with a higb hand. A majority of the leading 
theologians were Calvinists, spoke of the successor of 
S. Peter as Antichrist, and gloried in their isoktion 
firom the rest of Christendom. What De Bominis 
sought, — Jerusalem, qum cediflcatur ut civitas cujus 
participatio ejus in idipsum, — was not to be found on 
earth. He looked back to the Eoman obedience — the 
nurse of his early years. The Spanish ambassador 
too played a double part. To the archbishop he 
enlarged on the heresy of England ; to King James 
he discoursed on the Popery of the exile.. Nor were 
there wanting assurances that Gregory XY was not 
in the same sentiments with his predeoessor. The 
foultof a temporary secession would be more than 
expiated by the glory of a ksting return. '* Perhaps 
he therefore departed for a season, that thou shouldest 
receive him for ever ; not now as a servant, but above 

L 



146 8PALATO. 

a servant; a brother beloved." The old man— he 
was now sixty-four — vielded, and applied for leave te 
Tetura to Italy. We can imagine King James 
Baying, or swearing, that he " had na Bae whaapled wi* 
the Paip in his younger days, whilk was weel kent o* 
a' Christendom, as to let the auld fule gang his ways 
boo." Howeyer, he appointed a commission — its 
prelates were Abbot of Canterbary, Neyle of Dorhain, 
Montaigne of London, Anđrewes of Winchester, and 
Williams of Lincoln, Lord Keeper — to retorti what 
anawer they thonght fit. They met at Lambeth, anđ 
after hearing the archbishop's defence, commandeđ 
him to leave the kingdom in twenty đavs, on pain of 
comingtmder the penalties affixed by law to Com- 
munications with Rome. It is *aid — and the poor 
archbishop has now no tongne to deny it — that he 
earnestly protested his entire approval of the Churtih 
of England, and promiBed never to speak against her. 
That such a promise was either given or accepteđ 
seems donbtfnl. The priče of reeonciliatkm witk 
Bome must be renunciation of Canterbury, and the 
Eoman formula for such a procesa was not likely to be 
a very gentle one. WouId that we conlđ know what 
Andrewes thonght of ali this f Abbot tfas an ultra-Cal- 
vinist; Keyle, a courtier; Montaigne, a bon-vivant; 
Williams, a man devoured with ambition ; and thejr 
did as one might expect. 

Đe Dominis went to Brassels, anđ there waited 
for a safe conduct, which never čame. During his 
six montira* residence in that city, heis said freqoently 
to have lamented — and naturally enongh — his un- 
happy ]Ourney to England. He at length veafcuped to 



B?AUl10. 147 

Bome, and was favourably received bj Gregory, who 
assigned him a pension, and treated him with dis- 
tinction. Hopeless, apparentlj, of any reformation ; 
disappointed with that which was on its trial ; worn 
out witb years and sorrows ; in the power of his 
enemies ; he publkhed a recantation of His works, 
as abounding in heresies, and injurious to the Roman 
Pontiff. At least tliis ie the Eoman accredited story : 
and oertainlj there is a printed book, in which M.A. 
de Dominu sui reditus ex Anglia consilium escponit ; 
and it čame ex typographid Mev. Gamerm Apoetolica, 
mdcixiil Ali I can >say is, — that the end of the 
story does not -vreli agree with the beginning; that 
De DomiinVs style was marvellously improved in the 
interval between his De Republicd and his Ooncilium 
Beditus / that the latter book was very necessary for 
Bome ; that the Jesuits had a good many practised 
pens ; and that the archbishop did not live to disown 
the work. 

Gregory XV died July 8, 1623. Urban VIII 
discontinued the pension of De Dominis. "Easier 
that," — so, or to the same effect spoke the ex-prelate, 
"than to answer my De Republicd JScelesiasticd" 
His reward was a cell in the Castle of 8. Angelo, and 
a process in the Inqnisition. This was still unfinished 
when the report went through Bome that the impri- 
soned archbishop was dangerously ili. He received the 
sacraments of the church with great devotion, and then 
went to a higher tribunal than that of the Holy Office, 
and I assuredly trust, to a more merciful sentence. 
Europe believed him poisoned; four of the Pope's 
physicianB dedared that he was not. Italian poisoning 

L 2 



148 SFALATO. 

being bo unheard-of a thing, and the testimony of the 
witnesses so perfectlv disinterested, let us givethe 
Jesuits the benefit of the doubt. At ali events, 

This surely yet 
Might have been gnmted him,— one sepulchre 
Besiđe the sepulchres of his fore&thers. 

But no. The Inquisition finished the cause, declared 
him a relapsed heretic, and burnt his corpse witb great 
solemnity in the Camvpo di IPiora. 

And first a few words as to the general outline of 
the city. Spalato may be described as a parallelogram 
— or rather double square — the larger side to the sea. 
One of these squares, that namely to the south, is 
comprised withinthe walls of the palače of Diocletian. 
Of this, the seaward gate is called the Porta Argentea ; 
that to the east, theAenea; that to the west, the 
Ferrea ; that to the kndward, the Aurea. The whole 
of this part of the city is so blocked up with mean 
alleys, staircase streets, and huddled lanes, that you 
are perfectly amazed when you at length enter the 
Feristylium, the open hali of granite coliimns. To 
your left is the Cathedral, once the great Temple of 
Jupiter; to your right, the church of S. Giovanni 
or the Baptistery, once the Temple of JEsculapius. 
Beyond this, you did pass through the Porticus, of the 
Corinthian order ; then the Vestibulum ; then the 
Atrium ; then the Cryptoporticus ; the last was 517 
English feet in length, and must have commanded a 
most noble view of the Adriatic. 

Let us commenceinthe Peristylium, now the Piazza 
del Duomo. On each side are seven Corinthian arches. 



SPALATO. 149 

whicb, exceedingly stilted, spring immediately from 
the capitals. The interoolumniations are not the 



The three first .... 8ft. 9in. 
4th .„. S 8J 

Sth ..... 10 4* 

6th -„ $ 10 

7th .~. 9 4 

At tbe further enđ of the Piazza is a flight of stepa 
to the Porticus^ the latter has four Corinthian pillars, 
but there is a flat entablature, eicept for the one 
centra! arćh ef entrance. Let us enter the CathedraL 

"Thou hast conquered, O Galitaanl" 
This perfectly plam octagonal nave was sj^to. 
formerly the great temple. It is the 
darkest, plainest church I ever saw, — an opening or 
twe for light, and that is ali the change made, — there 
really is nothing to describe. There was originallj a 
portico, taken down when the tower was added. The 
intemor entablatures are of the worst and heaviest 
taste ; the sculptures of the frieze, — Cupids riding, 
or in cbariots, — lions, bears, stags, are equally bar- 
barous. Still, the dome, which is of brick-work, is 
ingenious ; it consists, as it has well been said, " of a 
succession of small arches, one standing scalewise<on 
the other, tili they reach the upper or central part, 
-where they are succeeded by concentric circles, as im 
ordinary cupolas." The height is said to be 78ft. 4hl 
The interior is in a disgraceful state. 

The choir k squaie ended, much medermsed ; «o as 

• This opena to the temple *taircaie. 



150 8PALATO. 

to render it impossible to guess at the original date. 
I should bave said, that the stališ and sjnthromis, 
erected by De Dominis, were earlier; they are at 
least very archaic. The famous altar angels, also his 
device, the uslial lictn of the place, seem to me childish 
enough. They are of wood, and appear to be sup- 
porting an iramenoe weight, tili one finds that there 
are concealed iron-braces. 

The reader will observe that I could not summon 
sufficient classical enthusiasm to be strnck with the 
Oathedral in. itsetf. Biit it* campanfle, of 17& fbet in 
height, is one of the noblest erections of the kindthat I 
ever yet saw. It was built by Nicolas Tejardi, a eommon 
mason of Spalato, in 1360 1. squaie, of fr*e stages, with a 
later octagpnal head ? the tradition is that the latter 
supplied the* place of two stages overthrownin a storm«. 
No words caa give an idea of the exqnisite system of 
panel-shafting from apex to lowest stage p the shafts, 
nsuallv speaking, circular, with sqtiare base, and 
Cbrinthia&ising capa. The k>wer stage, whieh I do« 
Bot reckon in the sis, is of solid ma&onrj, onfy piercecfe 
by the ascent to the door; A good many of the shafts 
and capitak used oame from the ruins of Salona, the 
bishopric, to thedestruetionof which Spalato snoceedećL 

By the entranoe of the Cathedrai is a red granite- 
sphinx ; one of two removed froro the Porticae to the 
Temple when it wa& taken down- Over the door is a 
kind of high tomb to Margaret, daughter of Bek IV, 
who died in 1241, at Clissa^ and with whom her sister 
Gatherine is ako buried. I also copied the foMowing r 



Heus ta qui tr&nsis, parumper stav 
Johannes Fabiani Spalatensb fui, 



8F*LATfe 151 

ubi gtariam nactas sprevi et im¥>omitittffl oofaL Pro me, 
Viator optime 7 vale, 7 *▼& 

Is the latter clause a singular parodj of a classical 
epitaph ? — or is the vale a mistake of the engraver 
fopPflfor? 

I caiinot better describe the Baptistery than in the 
words of Sir Gardiner Wilkinson. 

" About 115 feet from the opposite side of the oourt, 
and facing the Temple of Jupiter, is that of Esou- 
lapius, It stands at the upper end of a Temeno*, or 
sacred inclosure, 100 feet bread and 165 long. A 
similar Temenos inclosed the other Temple ; and it is 
probable they were both planted with trees. The 
interior of the cella, though simple, is ornamented 
with a rich projecting cornice, and earved lacunaria 
in its vaulted stone ceiling, which continues in a 
perfect state of preservation, and is a curious specimen 
of an ancient roof. The cornice and frie?e, of the 
exterior, are also well preserved, particularlj at the 
back. The bas-reliefs of the frieze represent Cupids 
plucking grapes, amidst trees and vases, and lions and 
leopards resting their paws on vases ; from which this 
temple mjght seem rather to have belonged to Bacchus 
than to the God of medicine. But, considering how 
much Esculapius was honoured in the countrv, it is 
not surprising that Điocletian should dedicate one of 
the temples to him. So esteemed, indeed, was this 
deity by the Bomans, that, during the great plague 
(a.u.c. 462), they sent to Greece, and brought away 
his statue, in the form of a serpent, from Epidaurus, 
to stay the calamity.* 

• Valer. Maz. lib. i. c 8. 



152 



BFALATO. 



•* Two sarcophagi have been placed in the area before 
the door, which were brought from Salona ; on one is 
repre8ented a apirited boar hunt, the otber is of no 
interest. 

" This temple, converted into a baptisterj, nas been 
đeđicated to S. John ; and it is to their consecration 
to religious purposes by the Christians, that both 
these ancient sanctnanes are indebted for their pre- 
servation. The steeple, that formerly disfigured the 
temple of Esculapius, has been taken down ; and the 
removal of the houses, that conceal the back part, 
would be a still greater improvement• ,, 

Our next business was to walk round the walls of 
the palače, so far as they are perfect. Thedimen- 
sions are these 4 there being a square tower at each 
extremity which is not includedinthe measurement as 
here given, from Adams : 




8PALAT0. 153 

The Porta CEnea is utterlj destroyed ; there are 
small remains of the Porta Argentea, and the Porta 
Perrea ; but the Porta Aurea is inbeautiful preserva- 
tion, though the earth has been much heaped up 
against it. In the lower part is a gateway of verjr 
rich mouldings. Above this, a series of seven arches, 
once supported on porphyry columns, carried away 
by those barbarous depredators, the Venetians. I 
may now speak of the churches : 

Santa Chiara by the Porta Argentea, I 
8aw by night when lighting up for a con- s chiara. 
gregation. It was originaIly middle- 
pointed, though now much modernised, with a good 
deal of " classic" enrichment. On the south side are 
cloisters of the same date, of small dimensions, but 
elegant. The tower seems a poor imitation of the 
cathedral. 

S.Pasguale. Msoamodernbedchurch: 
crammed full, when I saw it, of a con- g ^^ ua j e# 
gregation, at the exhibition of some relic. 
This was kissed by each in turn, passing before the 
high altar, where it was held by the arch priest ; in 
the meantime vernacular hymns were sung by the 
choir; we visited S. John Baptist, and 8. Dominic, 
which have nothing of interest ; in 8. Peter 9 *, here 
called 8. Pierro, I copied the following.: 

Joannes de Manciniis, MU. Hiepos. S. Sap. 
Canon. Archip. Spalatens. et hujos eccleaiaj 
Rector, prs vetustate demolitam 
ad ndelium oommoda instauravit, et exornavit. 
MDCXCVI. 



154 &PALATO, 

It baa a prettsj little campanile witb tbree bells - r 
but the edifiee i Wf ia disgraeed with the Mmieirciilar 
atable windows tbat bere are so comsaon, 

From Spalato, tbougb not at oup fbat stay in tbat 
city, we paid a visit to tbe ađjacent island of Bua. 
JBavw> tbe Boa* of Ammian, wa& a not. unuaual 
place of exUe under tbe Lower erapire, It ia manir 
festlj a conjbiruia^tioa of tbe promontory on which 
Spalato itself stands ; and, at ita nortbern extremity, 
approaches within five bundred yarda of tbe littoral 
to wbicb it ia actually joined by Trau (tbat Trau of 
wbicbl spoke not long since as tbe aee of Andreucci), 
Tbat we faileđ to vieit tbis, tbe ancient Tragurium, 
was our only aerioua dbappointmeni in our Dalmafcian 
tour, 

Sailing out of tbe barbour, we eoaated the eastera 
side of tbe peninsula, wbicb ie called Mount Marianna : 
bere is tbe cemetery* Double tbat, to our rigbt 
opened tbe wbole sketcb of tbe littoral along tbe canal 
of Bua. It ia tbe loveliest coaat acenery of Dalmatia, 
and goes by tbe name of tbe Caatelli ; from the fact 
tbat so many of the Tenetian nobility were glad to 
eatabliab their familiea, and to erect tbeir castles in tfcia 
earthly Paradiae, Thus we bave Castelsucuraa, 
Castelabbadesaa, Castekambio, Casteketturi, <fco. 
Tben we stood acroaa the little strait, and in two houra 
from leaving Spalato landeđ at a little long quay 
in Bua, an olive yard riaing abruptly above it. Tbere 
were a few boats lying at anebor here r eacb witb four 
gratellas, two at eitber end, to hold ligbta for tbe 
night fisbery of Sardines. 

"We pursued our way up the olive yard, and then 



8PALAIO. 155 

througb a đeep stony lane. An old peasanfc met us 
with the salutation (soutb of Spakto to ali but 
universal) Hmlien Isu* : " Jbstts be pnrised !" Ton 
reply : Vatda i H for ever,*' or, Vazda huddi i Marta : 
"for ever be He, and aUo Mary V 9 And still ascend* 
ing, we čame out on a little bit of table land, where 
stands the small church of & George Zlatinski. It bas 
square-ended chancel, nave, soutb sacristy, 
campanile. The whole is very rude, and aatilmakL 
of Bomanesque date. Two brackets at 
east end, like earlj Eomanesque above — a square 
aumbrye to the nortb of the chancel, and a very 
low circular chancel arch. The sacristjr was once a 
ehapel ; it has a west door, with a ratber curious first 
pointed benatura. Tbe woman from whom we got the 
keys (and she seemed miserably poor), sbook her head 
at paper, looked doubtful at silver, but. accepted 
copper with aiddity. The view from the churchyard, 
stretching on one side to Trau, whose towers you can 
see as at the end of a deep bay, along tbe Castelli 
opposite — further on to Point Marianna, tbe island 
rises too bigh on the otber side to aUow of a view to 
tbe open Adriatic. In the churchyard is a slab of 
the fifteenth century, showing the same custom of 
representing the profession of tbe deceased whicb 
prevailed among ourselves. Here was the Piperata, 
pruning hook, of exactly the same shape that is 
employed now. 

In returning to our boat, I saw a pretty, little bali 
of ciisp, green foliage, something like an "everlasting," 
and gathered it. Directly my fingers became violently 



156 8PALAT0. 

inflamed, — tbe pain was at least equal to that of a 
wasp stiog, and I could even feel shooting pains ali 
up my arm for some time. It was, I found, the bud 
of a particular kind of nettle, for which Bua is 
famous. 



157 



Chaptbb IX. 

MACARSKA, CURZOLA, CATTARO. 

Eablt in the morning after we had left Spalato, we 
lay to off Macarska. A very grand view : bleak snow- 
capped mountains rising precipitouslj behinđ; so 
pure and clear in the unclouded and, as yet, chilly 
May morning. Ck>se at hand, pleasant little gardens 
running down almost to the beach ; the white houses 
of the little city contrasting well with the scattered 
groves of fir or cypress ; the Venetian towers here 
and there ; and the life and business of the country 
quay. 

The single hour that we had for visiting this 
place was amply enough. Its ecclesiastical history 
will appear elsewhere; here it may suffiee to say 
that it always maintained its independence as a 
separate republic under Venetian protection. And 
this was not a mere form of words ; Venice had very 
little real power here, and the Lion nowhere appears 
on the public edifices. A grove of trees is still shown, 
which formed the city town hali. 

The Concathedral, so called from the 
union of the see with that of Spalato, is Con^Sh^ral 
aplain, long, modem building, — the tower 
on the north side ; but without any object of interest. 
To the south of, and beyond, the town is the Convent 



158 MACABSKA, CtTBZOLA, AND 

of the Assumption, or of S. Antonio, a Franciscan 
house ; the church modem ; a tali Venetian tower ; 
cinque-cento cloisters. The convent štanda in a grove 
of firs, itself occupving part of a little green ; the 
mountains tower up close behind. This is one of 
the loveliest situations I ever saw a religious house 
occupy. 

As you again steam along the coast, the littoral puts 
on its loveliest features. Vitkge after village of 
ravishing beauty ; mewy songs and voices from olive- 
yard and vineyard ; theploughing oien ; thegoaltherd'e 
pipe; the glorious mountains looking down upom 
and solemnising ali. To our right, we are nearing 
the long thin island of Lešina — "the awl" — bo 
called from its shape ; in Illyrian Far. It approaehes 
us almost at right angles -, but I »hali leave what I 
have to say of it tili hereafter, when we shail visit its 
capital. 

We pass between the mainland and the point, by 
S. George's Channel, and almost reverse our lafte 
course, along the other side of the island. A glanee 
at the map will shew the eurious position of the 
littoral, Lešina, and the long promontory of Sabbion- 
cello. Tili lately we have been running south-eaet, 
the littoral to our left, Lešina to our right ; now we 
are running north-west, Lešina to our right, the 
littoral only in view, Saibbioncello to our left, tili we 
can double the point of the latter. In about an hour 
our course changes ; we pass within a hundred yards 
of the utmost point of that quaiat peninsula ; go round 
it ; and now fmd ourselves in a river lake between 
Sabbioncello and Curzola. And now, cm the latter 



0ATTA.BO. 159 

ifttand, I see a quaint medisBval, walled town, boldly 
projecting into the sea ; the waves licking the feet of 
the very battiements. This is Gurzola. We shut 
<off onr steam, and čast anchor. Ijump into the boat 
trith the certaintj that this ie, of a verity, new eccie- 
«iologkai ground. 

There is nota street in the little townthrough 
irhich any vehicle couldpass ; neither could the gates 
«dmit the entrance of such a thiog. It is a city of 
•aĐevB and staircases- but so picturesque! Rrst to 
8. Michael : a very small church, of ap- 
parently first-pointed date, now mo- g jjj^^i 
cteraked. Square-ended chancel: dome: 
very smail nave. Nothing especiallj worthy of notice 
save <the pulpit, which projects from the north wall ; 
and is supporbed on four circular voluted shafts, with 
8qusre flowered caps, and is richlj mouldeđ. As ire 
pasa np the street, we are shown a ring, vhićh in 
mediroval times gave to hira that was so happy as to 
grasp it, the privilege of asvlum. Next to the ci-demnt 
Cathedral—* very curkras building. Circular apse: 
choir : nave : two north aisles, one south 
aisle, to choir and nave: tower at north c^^L 
west. The whole first-pointed. 

The altar stands in the chord of the apse ; the stališ 
and bishop's throne are of cinque-cento work. Thechoir 
and nave together have five bays : arches pointed, and 
gaite plain. Eiers oircular, on square base, and witih 
Oorinthianising caps. In the triforum are two open- 
ings over each bay : the two separated by a circiđar 
shaft with sqnare flowered caps and squareb*se. Thfe 
derestory had, apparmUl^ one kncettoeacbbaf, to 



160 MAOABSKA, GTTOZOLA, ATO 

isnow modernized. The south aisle is apsida!;: the 
apse now blocked by an altar. On the south side, 
high up, is a cinque-cento recessed monument to a 
Bishop of Curzola, Vincent Cossovich. The effigy is 
lying on one side. To the north of north aisle is an 
irregular opening, but towards the east by two-and-a- 
half arches to the sacristj, to whieh also is a singularlj 
rich door: square-headed trefoiled : the cusps being 
formed bj angels- with musical instrument*; above 
very rich work with ih& and the Besurrection ku the 
tympanum. By this door is a cinque-cento benatura. 
The sacristy itself has two bays from north to south — 
the windows were accordingij lancets. The second 
north aisle has two-and-a-half narrow bajs. Two 
lancets to the north, two to the west p the east end is 
blocked. Here they profess to show a Titian. The 
tower, at the north- west, has a very rich western door, 
of two voluted orders, and a canonized bishop in the 
tjmpanum. The west window of the nave is a fine 
rose of sixteen leaves. 

This is a verj instructive church ;: and coming in so 
romanticalljr situated a city, and utterly uneipected, 

it delighted us extremely. We then saw 
All^aints. ^ & 1 ™* 8 * This is modernized > but has 

some eurious things. 
The baldachin seems of the thirteenth centurj. 
The shafts are circular with Corinthianizing cap& ; the 
dome pierced with quatcefoils ; at each angle apinnacle. 
A staircase in the north Leads to what was once a 
Greek church, though now deserted. Several old 
Greek pictures remain in a state of decaj. 

Curzola is the Corcyra Nigra of the ancients, so 



OATTABO. 161 

called from its dark pine woods. They now supply 
Llojd's arsenal, and make the island one of the love- 
liest of the Adriatic group. 

On board again. Por some distance yet we run 
between Sabbioncello and Curzola ; then a break to our 
right ; and we near, and begin to run along, Meleda. 

Now I must confess that, tili our present tour, I 
had always, notwithstanding the confessed difficulties 
attaching to that hvpothesis, believed the Melita of the 
Acts of the Apostles to be Malta. It is, of course, a 
subject which has been deeply studied in the monas- 
teries of these islands ; and, after examining the 
authorities recommended to me by some of their 
religious, I am bound to express my entire certainty 
that Melita is Meleda. If it be thought presumptuous 
in me — a clergyman — to contradict such authorities 
as Admiral Penrose and Mr. Smith, 1 must observe 
that every Adriatic naval authority is on my side. I 
will briefly state the argument : 

The plain facts, which make for me, are these : — 

1. The ship was driven " up and down in Adria." 
It is said that the sea between Malta and Crete was 
aucientlj called Adria. Let us first have a proof of 
this; as yet I have seen none, except where the word 
is used vaguelv, e.g. as one might now say ; — I went 
from Trieste by the Adriatic to Malta ; — which would 
not mean that the Adriatic reached to Malta. 

2. There are no serpents in Malta ; they abound in 
Meleda. 

3. The same of wood. 

4. The sailors must have known Malta ; yet," when 
it was day, they knew not the land." 

M 



162 MACARSKA, CURZOLA, 

5. I lay no great stresa on the " barbarous people," 
yet the expression is singular if employed of the 
Maltese. 

6. There is no creeh in Malta such as describeđ. 
The Maltese hvpothesis make the sailors take the 
Salmonetta strait for a creek. In Meleda, S. Paul's 
Bay answers precisely. 

7. Any Maltese tradition may be repulsed by the 
universal tradition of the Adriatic in favour of Meleda. 

Let us follow the ship from Clauda. 

The wind was then blowing — as it is agreed — E.N.E. 
Under the lea of Clauda they bad smooth water for 
some twelve miles, and employed themselves in making 
ali snug: that is, after lowering the mainyard, and 
perhaps setting a small storm-sail, they hove the ship 
to on the starboard tack. Mr. Smith calculates the 
drift to be a mile, or a mile and a half, an hour, which 
on the fourteenth night would make Malta. 

I first quote Admiral Penrose : 

" To have drifted up the Adriatic, to the island of 
Meleda, in the requisite course, and to have passed so 
many islands would, humanly speaking, have been 
impossible. The distance from Clauda to that Meleda 
is not less than 780 geographical miles. 

Now observe : 

1. The distance to Meleda is little more than 620 
miles. I cannot but imagine the Admiral to have 
thought that Melađa, quite in the north of the Adriatic 
group, was meant. That is about 780 miles from 
Malta ; that would involve a curve to get to it. But 
suppose 

2. That, when the ship was in 22° east longitude 



AOT) CATTAEO. 168 

35° north latituđe,the wind sbifted, as U 80 often does, 
to E.S.E. The course would be then directlj straight 
to Meleda, — no island approaching the line — S.PauTs 
Bay, the creek so exactly answering the description, 
would be the first land they could make. 

3. On this hvpothesis, there was not one single 
island, instead of the AdmiraTs " so many," to pass. 

"Whatever may be thought on the whole, any reader 
may convince himself that from Clauda to Meleda 
there is nothing like 780 miles ; and that no curve 
was necessary to enable the ship to reach it, — the 
southernmo8t of ali the Adriatic group. I cannot, 
I repeat, but believe that the Admiral was thinking 
of Melada. 

We had time, as we ran along the pretty, though 
rather monotonous island, to discuss this and the 
like subjects ; though S. Paul's cove lies on the 
exterior side, we cheered ourselves with the hope of 
seeing it on our return. A storm čame on ; and a 
rainbow spanned the narrow strait from Meleda to 
Gravosa; — the spotless wing of the sea-bird dipped 
sometimes for a moment in its prismatic glory. ¥e 
čast anchor in the bay of Gravosa, two miles from 
Ragusa, late in the afternoon ; and immediately made 
the best of our way to the city. I will not now 
describe it ; but will reserve it for our return, when 
we passed a longer time here. On this occasion we 
only remained the night. 

"We lefb Gravosa again at seven in the morning. 
The coast scenery was at first uninteresting ; but the 
moment the point was doubled, and we entered the long 
winding, mountain-locked "Canal" of Cattaro, we were 

K 2 



164 MA0AB8KA, CTTBZ0LA, 

overwhelmed wilh the sublime loveliness of this 
heavenly fiord. Now a noble river; now a calm 
lake ; now a narrow sea ; it opens at length into the 
final reach, and Cattaro reposes at the further end. 
The huge mountains that mirror themselves so lovingly 
on the calm waters ; the venerable old woods ; okve- 
yards and vineyards ; white cottages peeping out 
from the laurel groves ; nionasteries shrouded in 
.cypress trees ; red May-bushes sending out their 
fragrance from bili side or towering promontory ; the 
distant farm ; the village, with its church, lining 
the far-off shore; the glorious hues of the crags 
and such a sky as is renected nowhere save in the 
Adriatic ! That two hours' voyage, from the Bocca 
to Cattaro, must be, I really believe, summing its 
elements of beauty in one, unrivalled in Europe. At 
Perasto, where the last reach opens, the steamer calls : 
— the little town stands on the Canal as in the bifur- 
cation of a Y; the stem leads seaward; the left 
arm winds away into, and is lost in, Monte Crassene ; 
the right runs up to Cattaro. 

That verily is a city of beauty ! The mountains 
soar precipitously from the very beach ; the town rises 
with them ; and, when the " lamb-clouds" are at an 
average height, the exterior walls, on the Albanian 
side, peer far above them. This, too, is one of those 
places one dreams of ; such steep, narrowalleys ; houses 
almost touching each other in the upper storey ; stair- 
cased streets. "We entered the seagate, in front of which 
is a pretty grove, bouievard-like ; and began to make 
inquiries for lodgings, for professed hotel there is 
none. Ha ring secured two rooms, empty of furniture 



AND CATTABO. 165 

but swarming with very unnecessarj tenants, we lefb 
Dundich to purchase wbat provisions were needful, 
and proceeded to the Cathedral, — a very 
interesting and instructive building. It n^^i 
stands in a little place, almost tbe only 
flat piece of ground, in tbe centre of tbe city. 

It consists of 

Apse, witb adjacent nortb chapel, 
Cboir, with aisles, 
Nave, with aisles, 
Two westem towers. 
Tbe whole is late Eomanesque. Tbe apse is circulap, 
with remains of tbe original sjrnthronus ; tbe altar 
stands in tbe centre of the cbord. At the east end 
are three circular-headed lights, witb circular shafts, 
and square caps. 

Tbe altar is under a late third-pointed baldacbin ; 
shafts octagonal ; octagonal, on square, base ; rudelj 
flowered square caps, supporting a richlj flowered flat 
arcbitrave ; above wbich rises a cinque-cento octagonal 
canopjr. 

At the south-east of the apse, bigb up in the wall, 
is an episcopal monument like that at Curzola. Tbe 
effigy lies quite on one side ; tbe hands are crossed ; 
the niche is very high ; — the Bishop wears a ćope, — 
and in the upper part of his Pastoral Staff is a Holy 
Lamb. There is an inscription in hexameters, so care- 
lessly (to ali appearance) engraved at first, and so 
mucb mutilated, as not to be worth transcription. The 
last line is : — 

Ano Dni. mdxxxii. de x. mens. Novembr. 



166 MACABSKA, OTJRZOLA, 

Below tbis, on the floor, is an incised slab of another 
Prelate. 

To the north of the apse is a door which commu- 
nicates with the sacristy, — a small chapel parallel 
with the ehurch. The vaulting is pointed; ali else 
modernised. 

The choir of the Cathedral consists of one bay, 
that i3, two arches ; for, throughout the building, each 
couple of arches are contained under an external 
arch. This external arch forms the vanlting ; the two 
interior arches are very narrow, — ali round-headed. 
The shaft circular ; square base ; square Corinthian- 
izing cap: very good and solemn. The vaulting of 
the bay simplj cross, with broad, nat, square-edged 
mouldings. The stališ are poor and modern ; not 
returned. 

The south aisle of the choir has nota a square East 
end ; but the apse arch remains, and is bold and good. 
On the south side is a circular-headed light, noto 
trefoiled. The north aisle is much the same as the 
south, excepting this window. 

The nave consists of two bays (= four arches) like 
the choir. The piers very massy, and square ; simple 
cross vaulting to each bay ; the clerestory has one 
circular-headed light to each arch Then, beyond, 
one arch is set a little further back on each side : — 
was this intended for a proposed tower, never built ? 
The south aisle has one circular-headed window, now 
trefoiled in each bay. This may remind us of those 
in the Cathedral of Pola. At the north- west end of 
the north aisle is a modern baptistery ; and from this 
a night of twenty stepa leads into the chapter-house, 



AND OATTABO. 167 

which appears to have been taken out of a chapel. 
Here is a perfect collection of chapfcer records, since 
the year 1436 ; the hasty glance 1 was able to give 
showed me how manj curious things might be gleaned 
from it. For example : 

Hoc anno, die xx mens. Novembris, erat ventus valđe fnrens : 
et evertit omnes arbores, et quasđam domos, et crncem, qu» in 
septentrionali parte Cathedralis posita erat. 

Quocirca statutima est, ut singnlis annis omnes in urbe campanae 
hac in nocte pulsentur. 

This joins on the north side to what was the 
Episcopal Palače. 

There is a curious Romanesque barrel-vaulted porch. 
On the left hand, as you enter, a singular sarcophagus. 
Over it : 

Sarcophagum 

Conjugum nobilissimorum, 

qui, anno a Christo Nato dcccix, 

ecclesisB S. Marise, infuario jam pridem carenti 

D. Tryphonis a mercatoribus Ven : emptis ezuviis 

templum primo hic sedincaverunt 

Quum ejus ambitus novissime strueretiir 

hic prope sub foramine detectse, effoss8Bqae 

v. non. April. a.s. mdcccxi. 

On the north wall is this inscription, evidentlj 
coeval with the church ; but so worn as to be almost 
illegible. The interest which our attempts to decjpher 
it occasioned, showed how verv little attention is paid 
to archseologj at Cattaro. 

+ Sam palvis fectus, pulvis de pnlvere tractas. 
Sergius sum Episcopus, Leonis cujusdam filii 
Qui cum starem corpns sustinui includi in hoc tumulo 
Omnes qui aspicitis, orate pro nostris oontagiis sednlo. 
Dominom deprecate, cujus discipulus fuit * * mille * * nono 



168 MACARSKA, CUBZOLA, 

The east enđ, as I have said, was triapsidal ; this is 
manifest enough in the exterior, though the norfchern 
apse has perished. The southern apse, circular, has 
three bays, divided by plain flat Bomanesque pilaster- 
buttresses ; each bay panelled in two nebuly arches ; 
in the centra! bay is one round-headed light, now 
blocked. 

The central apse is, in like manner, divided into 
three bays ; each haviDg four nebuly arches. The 
central bay has a large round-headed window, with 
circular shafts, and square caps. Above this, are two 
quatrefoiled circles. The whole is a very curious 
example of an early Romanesque east end. 

The western facade consists of two seventeenth 
century towers, connected by a great circular arch ; 
forming, beneath it, a porch, flanked on each side by 
one of the towers. Above this arch is a passage with 
balusters, — I suppose that the Bishop might thence 
bless the people assembled in the great square, which 
it overlooks. The west window of the nave, which 
appears above this, is a rose of sixteen trefoiled 
lights. 

North-west of the Cathedral is the curious little 

church of S. Luke, an early Romanesque structure. 

It consists of apse, central dome, and 

S.^Luko. we8 * ern narthex. The apse is circular; 
the apse arch plain, round. The dome 
rises from a square external structure on four pointed 
Eomanesque arches. Outside, the church is square, 
with the addition of the apse ; and, under a lean-to, to 
the north, the apsidal chapel of S. Spiridion, which 
has no windows. The apse of S. Luke is externally 



A.TCD OATTABO. 169 

divided into three panels by flat pilaster-buttresses ; 
the central division has two round-headed adjacent 
lights; shafts, circular; circular base, square caps. 
The south side of the square has one clerestory 
window terminating a pilaster-buttress, something like 
those at Clymping, Sussex. The western fa9ade has, 
under one great circular arch of construction, two 
adjacent Eomanesque lights under one arch. Below 
this, a circular-headed door, with well-moulded jambs. 
The north side is much as the south. In the dome, 
toward each cardinal point, is a very narrow, round- 
headed, lancet. The dome terminates in a pjramidal 
head. This church belongs to the Eastern rite. The 
Iconostasis appears of the seventeenth century. 

"We here made the acquaintance of the Archi- 
mandrite, Irenaeus Popovitch, who, as I have alreadj 
said, is Pro^Vicar of the Bishop in the southern part 
of his diocese. He has two priests under him : they 
seem well-informed men, and certainljr of a superior 
stamp to the general run of their Latin brethren. 
Thej introduced us to the Slavonic reading-room, 
where they are endeavouring to get a few periodicals 
together, deToted to the interests of the Eastern 
Church ; and presented us with a recently-pubiished 
octavo, in handsome Cyrillic type, — " Istorie Tsrne 
Gore: napesao D. Miiakovitch:" Žara, 1856, (A 
history of Montenegro), — to which I shali have occa- 
sion to refer again. 

I very much regret that the accidental loss of my 
notes of the very curious Bomanesque Collegiata render 
me unabie to describe it. 

We had but one day in Cattaro, and were anxious 



170 MACABSKA, CUBZOLA, 

to employ it to the best advantage. We first pro- 
cured horses for Montenegro, and then an unexpected 
difficulty arose. Dundich's passport was vise for almost 
every European State : unhappily, Montenegro did not 
appear among the rest. The authorities were unper- 
suadable. "Tou must telegraph to Trieste." We 
did so. The answer was, " Telegraph broken some- 
where in Croatia, between Zengh and Sebenico." We 
applied again. Still the only reply was, " Perhaps it 
will be mended before you start." 

After seeing the churches which I have described, 
we took a long walk by the" canal," — assuredly the most 
glorious firth-scenery I have ever seen. Norway, I 
imagine, may, in height of mountains and grandeur of 
composition, be equal to it ; but southem colouring and 
southern vegetation, and the blue of the Adriatic, 
render the scene inimitable. I wonder that Cattaro 
is not better known. Even Wilkinson seems to me 
vastly to underrate its beauties. A very fair road skirts 
the eastern side of the firth ; snow-capped mountains 
towered beyond, and be-hither, the calm gulf ; white 
cottages peeped out from their luxuriance of blossom 
— apple, pear, cherry, pumpkin, plum ; vines trellised 
the garden alley-walk ; oliveyards and vineyards, maize 
and wheat, clothed the lower slopes; seared and 
seamed rocks, here and there, cropped out from the 
rank vegetation ; white-sailed boats tacked or bounded 
merrily before the wind ; mountain-convents rang out 
forvespers ; inscatterednooks aboat-housewasreflected 
in the blue firth. And so we passed on tili we čame 
to Dobrota, the little village that stands at the head 
of the first reach, the bay here opening out in three 



AND CATTABO. 171 

ramifications. The white church stanđs weU, over- 
hanging a plateau of some 300 feet above the level 
of the sea : it is, unhappily, modem. Here we hired a 
boat, crossed the " canal," and walked back on the other 
side, skirting the head of the lake, and entering the 
fortifications bj a narrow and curio us, but most fetid* 
postern at twilight. 

Our quarter8, which, as I have said, were in a private 
house, were comfortless and bare, devoid of everything 
but vermin. They sheltered us, however, from a 
tremendous thunder-storm which burst on the moun- 
tains immediately over our heads that night. 

Before I say anything of Montenegro, I will offer a 
few observations on the ecclesiastical condition of 
Dalmatia. 



172 



Chapteb X. 
ECCLESIASTICAL DALMATIA. 

Isr the present cliapter I propose to give a brief 
sketch of the organization of the Church, both Latin 
and Greek, in Dalmatia. My materials are taken, 
partly from private information, partly from the 
" Schemati8mi," published for the Greek Province, 
and for most of the Latin dioceses, by the brothers 
Battara, of Žara, — the best publishing house south of 
Trieste. 

The Latin Province has Žara for its metropolis, with a 
diocesan population of 51,214 souls. The regular clergy 
are 41, the secular 216 ; the parishes and chapelries 88. 
The Cathedral of Žara, and the Collegiate church in 
the Island of Pago, are the two most important eccle- 
siastical establishments. There are two diocesan semi- 
naries, the one for Latin, the other for Ulyrian, priests ; 
— the latter called after the great and good Arch- 
bishop Vincent Zinaievich, its founder. (He sat from 
1713 to 1746.) The first Bishop, of whom the eccle- 
siastical records of the province teli, was S. Pelix, abont 
380 : the first Archbishop was Lampridius de GaJlelis, 
raised to that dignity in a.d. 1146. The present Arch- 
bishop, Joseph Godeassi, is the fifty-fifthin succession. 

Next comes the bishopric of Spalato and Macarska : 
its Cathedral in the former, its Concathedral in the 



ECCLE8IASTICAL DALMATIA. 173 

latter, city. Both will be described hereafter. Spalato, 
which, under the name of Salona, figures as a bishopric 
as early as 500, was afterwards raised to Archiepiscopal 
dignitj, and again degraded to simple diocesan dignity 
in 1830. In that year Macarska, up to that time an 
independent diocese, was united to its more illustrious 
sister. I noticed, in the aimanac of the united dioceses, 
one or two singular observances. Thus, on the 19th of 
January, after the Angelus, and early on the morning 
of the 20th, ali the bells are to be rung, in conse- 
quence of a destructive hurricane which, some 300 
years ago, is said to have uprooted every single tree in 
the diocese of Spalato. Prom the Feast of S. Mark to 
that of S. Luke, the Collect "Ad repellendas tem- 
pestates," is to be said daily, with reference to the 
terribie Bora, of which I have already spoken. 
S. Domnius, first Bishop of Salona, is principal patron 
of the diocese. His festival is on the lOth of May, 
and its octave is a season of daily merrymaking. 
S. John Baptist has no vigil, because another cele- 
brated prelate of Salona, S. Venantius, is commemo- 
rated on that day. On the Nativity of S. Mary a 
splendid procession takes place in Spalato, in com- 
memoration of the cessation, in that city, of the fearful 
plague of 1516. [There are daily suffrages of their 
respective Saints in the Cathedral churchof S.Domnius, 
S. Anastasius, and S. Jerome. The united diocese 
contains 117,905 souls, 141 churches and chapels, 214 
secular, 29 regular, priests. 

Next comes Bagusa. It contains 71 churches and 
chapels, 39 regular, 97 secular, priests ; 55,175 souls. 
This see, once raised to Archiepiscopal dignitv, was 
again reduced to a simple bishopric in 1830. 



174 BCOLESIASTIOAL DALMATIA. 

Affcer this comes Lešina. The official title of tbe 
Prelate is Phorends^-or, rather, Pharensis et Brac- 
tetms — Pharos being the ancient name of Lešina, and 
Brazza forming so important a part of the diocese. It 
contains 41 churches and chapels ; 10 regular, and 71 
secular, priests ; 35,146 souls. This embraces, also, the 
diocese of Curzola, suppressed in 1830. 

Sebenico follows. It is formed of three dioceses: — 

1. Knin (Lat. Thinniensis). This see was founded 
by Cresimir IV, King of Croatia, in 1050 ; and fifty- 
eight prelates governed it tili 1714, when it was lost 
by the Venetians to the Turks. The Emperor, as 
King of Hungary, continued to name a titular bishop, 
as, I believe, he does to this day. In 1768, the citj 
was recaptured, and itwas intended tore-establish the 
diocese ; but difficulties intervened ; and it was first 
informally, and then actually, united to the Diocese of 
Sebenico. 

2. Scardona. This see existed at least as earlj as 
580, and possessed its own Bishops tili October 8, 
1813. It was then governed by Vicars- Gteneral tili 
1830, when it was definitively united to Sebenico. 

3. Sebenico. The see was founded in 1279, and 
has possessed several eminent prelates. Girolamo 
Saorniano distinguished himself at Trent, and in 1564 
convoked his first Diocesan Synod. Vincenzo da 
Brescia (1599—1627) held seven. Giovanni Petani, 
was the most leamed Illyrian scholar of his day, 
and the first President of the Zmaievich Seminarj 
at Žara. The united dioceses contain 52 churches 
and chapels, 31 secular, 54 regular, priests, and 69,442 
souls. This is the only Dalmatian see in which the 



ECCLESIASTIOAL DALMATIA. 175 

regulars outnumber tbe seculars. This arises from 
the number of tbe places wbere a religious bouse — 
when there was constant war witb tbe Turks — migbt 
safely be founded. I have before me a list of the 
dedications of ali tbe cburches in tbe diocese. The 
ecclesiologist may be interested by a tabular view of it : 



S. Mary . . . 


19 


The Holt Ghost 3 


The Name of Jesus 2 


S. George . . 


8 


S. Elias ... 3 


Ali Saints ... 2 


S. John Baptist . 


7 


S. Katherine . . 3 


S. James ... 2 


S. Antony . . 


6 


S. Peter ... 3 


S. Jerome ... 2 


S. Michael . . 


6 


S. Stephen . . 3 




S. Nicolas . . 


5 






S. Mark . . . 


4 







And these one each : — S. Anne, S. Cross, S. Daniel, S. Francis, 
S. Gregory, S. John Ursini, S. Margaret, S. Martin, S. Mary 
Magdalene, SS. Peter and Paul, SS. Philip and James, S. Roque, 
SS. Roque and Bartholomew, S. Silveater, S. Thomas. 

One may notice in these dedications a good deal of 
tbe influence of the Eastern Churcb. Tbe favourite 
Saints, George and John, Baptist, take the lead of 
ali others; and tbe rare dedication of S. Katherine 
and the almost unknown one of S. Elias, here štand 
bigb. 

Lastly, there is tbe Diocese of Cattaro. This con- 
tains 24 cburches and chapels, 43 secular, 22 regular, 
priests ; 20,164 souls. 

Tbe wbole province of Dalmatia, tben, contains : — 
417 cburches and chapels, 195 regular, 683 secular, 
priests ; 487,042 souls. 

I will now speak of the Eastern Churcb. It may 
not be uninteresting to the reader to have some infor- 
mation with respect to its present status in the 
Austrian dominions generally; tbe rather that tbe 



176 EOOLESIASTIOAL DALMATIA. 

names of its prelates are constantly occurring in ttie 
political negotiations now going on in Hungarj. 

The Austro-Oriental Church, then, numbering about 
4,000,000 of souls, is subject to, as its supreme earthlj 
head, the Patriarch of Servia, Metropolitan of Carlo- 
vitz. Bis official title — if the reader is fond of long 
*words — is, — 

JEgo Sviatost Prevoshhodetelnieeshie e Vuisokodostoen- 
ieeshie Joseph Baiatchietch. 

Under this dignitary are, — 

1. Bishop of Karlstadt; Peter Joennovitch. Resides at 
Plashk. 

2. Bishop of the Bukovine ; Eugenius Chakman. Resides at 
Tcheruovitz. 

3. Bishop of Bats ; Plato Athanaskovitch. 

4. „ Pakrats; Stephen Eragouevitch. 

5. „ Transy 1 vania ; Andrew Shaguna. Resides at 
Hermaimstadt. 

6. Bishop of Temesvar; Samuel Masherevitch. 

7. „ Verehatz; Emilian Eengelats. 

8. „ Bude ; Arscnius Stoekovitch. 

9. „ Aradj Procopius Ivatzkovitch. 
10. „ Dalmatia; Stephen Knezevitch. 

It was not tili the end of the seventeenth century 
that the Eastern Church had a Bishop for the Vene- 
tian States. Then Meletius, Metropolitan of Phila- 
delphia, taking refuge from the savage persecutions 
of the Turks, settled at Venice. The succession has 
been this : — 

2. Nicodemus Bousovitch, calling himself Bishop of Sebenico, 
+1690. 

8. Sabbatius. 

4. Stephen Liobiebratitch ; 'settled at Cattaro, +1718. 

5. Simeon Kontsaveritch, with the title of Bishop of Caroiola 
and Dalmatia; +1750. 



ECCLESIASTICAi DALMATIA. 177 

6. Sophronius Kutovalle, ex -Metropolitan of Fhiladelphia, 
with two ex-Archbishopsj +1790. Vacant tili 1810. 

7. Benedict Kralevitch, at Žara; -|-1829. Governed the 
last seven years by an ex-Archbishop. 

& Joseph Raiatchietch, now Patriarch, tili 1834. 

9. Panteleemon Jevkovitch; +1835. Vacant tili 1844. 

10. Hierotheus Madebasitch; +1853. 

11. Stephen Knezevitcb, the present Bisbop, wbo, like his 
immediate predecessors, residee at Žara. 

I have already said that education is on a very 
creditable scale in both Churches. Some of the Latin 
books of religion I will here mention. 

One is everywhere struck by the appearance of the 
same little volume in ali but the meanest cottages. It 
is what Dr. TVatts's Hymns are to England, or 
Father Catz to Holland. It is called, " Muka Gospo- 
dina nascega Isukabsta e plac Matera Njegove," — 
The Passion of our Lord Jesus Cheist, and the Com- 
plaint of His Mother. It is a poem written dialogue- 
wise between our Lobd, His Mother, and others 
preseot at the Passion ; and from the easy flow of its 
rhvthm, the elegance of its language, and its own worth, 
has become marvellouslv popular. It was composed 
by a Pranciscan, Peter Knezevitch, and published 
in 1752. He died about 1770. Hlyrian is admirably 
adapted for double rhjmes ; it has a sweetness about 
it, united with a strength, which perhaps are not 
found in any other European tongue. Here is a spe- 
cimen : — 

Gospe. Oue Ladt. 

A viđidi, Sinko mili, Ah, beboldest thou, Son dear, 

Kako tvoja Majka cvili ? How Thy Mother mourns ? 

Obrazdise, i vidime — He turns, and sees me, 

I s* pogledom utifime. And with His presence calm 

me, &c, &c. 

V 



178 BCCLESIASTIOAL DALMATIA, 

.Ter tolije zate odicha P 
(Dasam martv*, ah kamo sricha) 
Toli razlog koga čine 
Ljudi vrutku od istine ? &c. 

Rici Picaoca. Speech oe the Weiteb, 

Dokle Gospe naricase While our Lady Iaments, 

I svom Sinku govorafe, And to her Son speaks, 

Sva dovarvi po gotovu They conduct Him already near, 

Vojska dvoru Pilatovu. With a multitude to the court 

of Pilate, &a, &c. 

Sajđe Pilat potom toga, 
I videchi svezanoga : 
Koja tusba, reče njima, 
Suproch tomu od vas ima ? &c. 

This, then, as I have said, is the favonrite sacređ 
poem of Daltnatia ; and though it makes small pre- 
tence to poetic diction or imagination, yet its smooth 
trochaic flow, and its almost Scriptural simplicity, may 
well endear it to the poor. I have heard it repeateđ 
in class by the schools of the larger towns, just as in 
England one might ask for the Evening or the Morning 
Hymn. And so far it stands alone. Tet Dalmatia 
maj boast a series of Ecclesiastical poets, not easily, 
ali things taken into consiđeration, to be surpassed 
by any other European country. Let me name a few. 
Marko Marulić, born at Spalato, in 1450, and who 
died in 1524. His versified Scripture historj — for it 
is little more than that — is still dear to old-fashioned 
people, much as such books as " Law.'s Serious Call" 
might be to English Churchmen. Again, Mavro 
Vetranič ; born in 1482, died 1576. Some of his odeš 
or hymns, call them which you wiH, on Saints' Days, 
are extremely beautiful ; a kind of antiquated " Chris- 
tian Tear." To these may be added his " Temptation 



ECCLKSIASTJOJLL Di£MATIA. 179 

of Abraham," his " Passion of our Lobd," and bis 
"Trial of Susanna." AH tbese dramas are even 
now favourites witb the people. Again, tbe " Chris- 
tiad" of Junio Palmotić, who lived from 1606 to 1657, 
is a poem of no small merit. In tbe same measure as 
tbe great work on tbe Passion, its trocbaic rbymes 
are alternate instead of consequent. If somewbat 
more poetical, it loses more in simplicity tban it gains 
in ornament. Tet again ; tbere is a beautiful Cbris- 
tian drama on tbe subject of S. Justina (tbougb having 
no connection witb tbat glorious play of Calderon), 
by Vladislav Minceti6 (be died in 1666). Andrija 
Vitaljić publisbed, in 1703, at Tienna, a poetical ver- 
sion of tbe Psalms, wbicb I bave beard highly spoken 
of ; but I believe tbat tbe bymns, wbicb be brougbt 
out in 1712, and wbicb are in great measure imitations 
of those in tbe Eoman Breviary, are still more admired. 
His versions of the "Vexilla Eegis," tbe " Stabat 
Mater," tbe " Pange Lingua Gloriosi," are usually 
employed wben vernacular bymns are sung in pro- 
cessions or on pilgrimages. Andrija Kacić or Miočić 
left a series of hymns, cbiefly on the warrior-saints of 
Servia and Hungary. Some of them, especiallv that 
on S. John Capistran, are marvellously spirited ; and, 
I have no doubt, stirred the blood of Montenegrin or 
Bagusan in their hand-to-hand conflict with the infidel, 
like a trumpet. In later years, Gergur Cevapović 
bas given us a very pretty drama on tbe subject of 
Joseph in Egypt, wbere we flnd classical metres intro- 
duced with considerable success. The Sapphics espe- 
cially — if Sapphics those may be called wbere the 
three first bnes of tbe stanza are one syllable too short, 

v 2 



180 ECOLESIASTICAL DALMATIA. 

— are said to be much admiređ. But the work whicb, 
in different parts, is most usually found in Dalmatian 
cottages, — brought bome, I suppose, by tbe children 
wbo are scholars in tbe varioua National Schools, just 
as our Christian Knowledge booka abound in our 
Englisb cottages, — is cailed " Cvit razlika mirisa duho- 
vnoga :" that is, "Tbe Garland of Spiritual Flowers." 
It contains varioua little devotional books of medi- 
tation and prayers, eiplanations of tbe Creeds, com- 
mentaries on our Lobd's Passion, easy polemical dis- 
sertations against tbe faitb of the Eastern Church, 
and a very large collection of hymns. Of these last, 
it is to be observed that there are probably more original 
hymns in the Dalmatian (Latin) Church thanhad been 
composed by any other national communionin Europe. 

The only other book wbich seems to bave a general 
village circulation, so to speak, among thewilder parts 
of the country, is, " The Art of Dying well," originally 
vritten by a Discalceate Carmelite (Joannes a Jesu 
Maria), and translated, in 1653, by Peter Gaudentius, 
then Bishop of Arbe. The language is now a little old- 
fashioned ; but I remember, while taking refuge from 
a sudden shower of rain in a •cottage within tbe 
Montenegrin territory, and looking at this the only 
volume which my teraporary host possessed, that he 
said, " If ever I get to heaven, I shall owe it to tbat 
book." And truly it is a very excellent little treatise. 

While dwelling on the subject of this people's belief, 
it is natural to say something of their superstitions. 
In Portugal, I bave always been very much struck 
with tbe Lobishome of popular credence. By day, 
a young man or young woman ; by night compelled to 
oam the countrj at full gallop as a horse. There is 



ECOLESIASTICAL DALHATIA. 181 

precisely the same belief in Dalmatia, only its object 
is called an Orca. Again, the Majić is a špirit which 
appears in the shape of a boy surrounded with a halo 
of fire, and is supposed to predict the greatest good 
fortune for the rest of their lives to those who are so 
happy as to be favoured with its sight : (the reader 
mayremember Lord Castlereagh's Vision). Nowhere 
is more implicit belief given to tales of vampires ; and it 
is no uncommon thing, even at the present day, that a 
whole village should, for weeks together, be disturbed 
by the supposed apparition of a Tukožlak, — a corrup- 
tion of the Greek "Vrukolakes. 

At the first French Eevolution, it was thought a 
marvellous improvement to re-name the old months 
by titles expressive of their pbysical character. The 
Hlvrian months had long anticipated such a system 01 
denomination. Thus, January is Siecanj ; that is, 
" the time of cutting," — viz., cutting wood for fire. 
February is Vegliaca ; that is, "the changeable month." 
March is Ojujak; that is, "of clearing," — viz., the 
weeds from the corn. April is Travagn ; " the month 
of herbs." May, stili more poetically, Ivibagn, — 
that is, " entwining ;" spoken of the twisting together 
of bird's nests. June, Liepahan, or Liepagn : " the 
beautiful month." July, Suropagn, — " sickle month." 
August, Kolovoz, — " the carting month." September, 
Euijan, — "the red month;" referring, some say, to 
the change of the trees ; others, to the ruddy tint of 
most Dalmatian wine. October is Listopad, — " leaf- 
fall month." November is Studeni, — " cold month." 
December, Prosinac, from the verb Prosinuti, "to 
shine ;" because it is illuminated, so to speak, by our 
Loed's Nativity. 



182 

Chapteb XI. 
MONTENEGRO. 

¥e were very anxious to pay, however hurriedly, a 
visit to Montenegro; which, though, shorn of its 
interest since the alteration of its hierarchical govern- 
ment, has yet sufficient difference from every other 
European State, to render a visit, though it maj be 
brief, anentrance, as it were, intoaperfectly novel scene. 

Having hired three horses for ourselves (permission 
having been obtained for Dundich) and one as a 
sumpter animal, we rode out of Cattaro about 7 in 
the morning. The pavement of the city is so extremely 
slippery, that, to prevent accidents, our baggage was 
not packed tili we were fairly outside the walls, in the 
place where the Montenegrins usually hold their 
market. Almost the very moment that Cattaro is 
left, the ascent of the mountain begins, admirably 
engineered by a series of zigzags, and presenting at 
each turn a nobler and nobler prospect, — at first, of 
the Canal, afberwards of the eastern coast, and, nnally, 
of mountain-range behind mountain-range, stretching 
onward to the interior. This road was a work of the 
Austrian Government ; and, though followed by the 
Montenegrins in ascending it, it is utterly neglected by 
them in the descent, when, however heavily loaded, 
they jump down from parapet to parapet, endeavouring 
merely to strike out the shortest, without any regard 



IfOOTBKEGKO. 188 

to the easiest, line. Por the first three-quarters of an 
hour, the citadel of Cattaro towers high above you on 
the right hand ; and, before you attain its elevation, 
you pass the small Morlacco hamlet of Spigliari. 
Here a road strikes off to the right, whioh eventually 
leads to Budua, and the southernmost eztretiiitj of the 
Austrian dominiona in Turkey ; but a few miles off. 
Tbis hamlet contains nine houses ; and there is a tra- 
dition that, should that number ever be ezceeded, the 
place will at once be destroyed. The Austrian frontier 
extends some way beyond this ; and the moment we 
pass that, the mountain-road ends. We are forced to 
dismount, and our horses clamber as well as they can 
through watercourses and over rocks ; so utterly bad 
a road that I think Portugal could not match it. 

It is almost impossible to imagine, without having 
seen, the marvellous effect of those mountain-ranges, 
tossed in the wildest confusion one behind the other, 
as you look to the Herzegovina and to Bosnia. It is 
no uncommon thing to make out fifbeen or siiteen lines 
of mountain at once. About four hours* from Cettigne, 
we čame on a kind of desolate plateau, where was a 
miserable cottage, dignined by our servant with the 
name of " The Hotel.' ' It conBists of one room, into 
which fowls, horses, andmen have promiscuous entrance. 
The poor people that keep it belong to the Eastern 
Church, and there was the little icon of S. Mary, hang- 
ing in the corner of their room, — the place of honour 
here as in Bussia. A wretched daub it was ; but it 
received as much veneration from the Montenegrin 
muleteers, who were dining while we fed our beasts, 
as the most precious relique in the most gorgeous 



184 MONTENEGRO. 

church coulđ ever enjoy. Hence it is necessary to 
walk for some four or five miles, the road being ali 
but impassable for horses. There is one most glorious 
prospect towards Scutari and Antivari ; the track there 
makes a tremendous dip into a narrow ravine, and, on 
the left hand, at the commencement of the succeeding 
mountain, is the Httle village of S. Greorge. Here I 
made acquaintancewith the priest, and was introduced 
to his wife. Miserably poor they were ; his income 
amounting — so far as the Church is concerned — to 
about thirtj florins a-year : but, as he said, he would 
not change situations with any " pastor" — to use his 
own term — in Christendom . He told me that neither he 
nor any of the Montenegrin priests ever preached, 
ezcept some of the more learned ones at Christmas 
and Easter. I counted his librarj: it consisted of 
eight volumes. His church was built in the seven- 
teenth century : there is nothing whatever noticeable 
in it, though the iconostasis has somewhat better 
paintings than might be expected in such an out-of- 
the-way spot. 

Thus we proceeded ali day, with no further varia- 
tion than the different degress of savageness of each 
succeeding ravine. But the water-shed of the moun- 
tains once passed, the scenerj improved, and several 
of the glens were covered with bushes and low under- 
wood, and then, as we penetrated more and more 
into the countrv, with reallv fine trees. The latter 
— now at the very end of May — were almost in full 
leaf ; but here and there the snow lay in patchea 
under them. At length, about 6 o'clock, we stood on 
the summit of the last mountain-range, and saw the 



M0OTE1TEGB0. 185 

long, narrow plain of Cettigne stretching at our 
feet. 

The last information, so far aa I know, which 
English travellers have received of the strange little 
principality (perhaps, at some distant time, to be the 
germof apowerful kingdom),ofwhich Cettigne iscapital, 
is that which occurs in the veiy interesting travels of 
Sir Gardiner Wikinson. The reigning Vladika at 
that time, who, as had always been the case tili then, 
united in himself the Boyal and Metropolitical eha- 
racter, was Peter II. ; — to give him his official title, 
" Metropolitan of Scanderia and the Sea Coast, Arch- 
bishop of Cettigne, Exarch of the H0I7 Throne of 
Pek, Vladika of Tchernagora, Peter II, Petrovitch 
Negush." In tbese amusing pages may be read the 
warlike feats of this prelate, his extraordinary skill 
with the rifle, and various details of his battles with 
the Turks. He was a man of gigantic siže and 
strength, 6 feet 7 inehes in height, and proportionateljr 
stout. 

The principalitj of Montenegro being vested in ita 
Metropolitans, it necessarily followed that descent 
from father to son was impossible : the eldest nephew 
succeeded the unele. The above-named Vladika had 
thus succeeded his namesake, Peter I, who died in 
1830, and who was venerated by his people as well for 
his great courage in war, as for his charity in peace. 
A 8 soon as the new Metropolitan had been consecrated 
at St. Petersburg, he, of his own authority, and without 
consulting either the Holy Groverning Synod or the 
Throne of Constantinople, forthwith canonised his 
unele, and removed the body — as I shall have oceasion 



186 KOKTEffEGBO. 

hereafter to đescribe at length — into a chapel adjacent 
to the great church. This action was not viewed 
favourably at St. Petersburg ; but explanations were 
given, and the Holy Synod at length professed itself 
satisfied. And certainly, no favourite saint ever had 
deeper veneration from the popular mind than has 
that S. Peter, with whom every Montenegrin, past 
middle life, was aetually on familiar terms of intimacy« 

Peter II, after haTing, by his prowess, secured him- 
self from ali danger on the part of the Turks, was 
endeavouring, in 1848, tbe year in which Sir Gardiner 
~Wilkinson visited him, to mitigate the barbarous 
manner of Montenegrin warfare. To bring back so 
many heađs of the Turks was then the great object of 
their guerilla eipeditions. 

But, notwithstanding the enormous strength and 
robust health of the Vladika, it appears that the seeds 
of a treacherous disease were in his constitution, eren 
when he was in communication with Sir Gardiner ; 
and shortly after the latter had lefb the country they 
developed rapidly. I have been told that it was a 
most touching thing to see him, knowing how much 
of his influence among his people depended on his 
personal strength and agility, endeavour to make 
efforts which were manifestly beyond his strength, 
tili at length he was scarcely able to mount his horse ; 
and, finally, was compelled to confine himself to his 
ecclesiastical duties. Utterly wasted away with 
decline, he died in 1850, leaving instructions that he 
should be buried at the very summit of Mount 
S. Nicholas, one of the loftiest of the Montenegrin 
range, in a chapel, for the erection of which, he lefb the 



MOffTEffEGBO. 187 

funds from his private propertj. This little white 
chapel is a conspicuous object in everj direction from 
the heights above Cattaro ; and it seems to me that 
tbe original name is likelj to be superseđed by that 
of the Vladika Gora. He was succeeded by hi« 
nephew Daniel, then only just of age, and who, accord- 
ing to the tradition of the country, was bound to be 
consecrated Bishop as soon as he should attain to 
canonical years. But, feeling in himself no vocation 
for the Ecclesiastical state, he resolved, if it were 
possible, to break through the ancient regime. He 
first went to St. Petersburg, where he induced the 
Emperor to enter into his viewa ; then to Pariš, where 
he formed a very intimate friendship with Louis Napo- 
leon, and received his assurance that France would 
interpose no obstacle to his wishes ; and at the same 
time, Austria evinced the same favonrable dispositions. 
Portified by these external permissions, and finding 
that the Council of Montenegro had no strong feeling 
against the secularization of their principality, he went 
to Trieste, proposed to the daughter of one of the 
richest merchants of that city, obtained her hand, and 
settled himself in the Palače, of which more presently. 
The city of Cettigne — if citj such a collection of 
houses may be called — stands nearly in the centre of 
a 8omewhat ugly plain, perhaps six miles in length by 
two in breadtb, through the turf of which the rock 
continually crops up. The whole place may be regarded 
as in the shape of a reversed j ; the inn forming the 
points of the termination of the letter ; the lower line, 
which, however, is on the opposite side of the road, the 
houses of the few inhabitants which are usually occu- 



188 MONTENEGBO. 

pied by the senators; the upper stroke, partly by 
stables or other erections of a sirailar kind, partly by 
one or two of the more respectable tenements ; partly 
at the upper end, by the Palače and Monastery. Just 
before we arrived at the first houses, we observed a 
group of some three or four hundred persons drawn 
up in a circle round a speaker, who was haranguing 
them with great earnestness. It was, we were told, a 
council of war ; and though I was unable to catch a 
single syllable that the Prince, who was the speaker, 
uttered, it was very easy to understand the formula 
of approbation, — *' Be it as thou wilt, Vladika !" 
with which the Assembly broke up. The Prince, 
who was in a most gorgeous uniform of gold and 
purple, walked first, followed by his commander-in- 
chief, who is also his brother-in-law, and some other 
of his State officers, towards the so-called Mali, — a 
marshy, unpleasant meadow which serves for military 
exercises. "We sent our introductions to him, and in 
the meantime made perquisitions into the accommoda- 
tion of the inn, — the most utterly filthy and vermin- 
haunted that, out of Portugal, I have ever beheld. 
In about a quarter of an hour we received a message, 
through the Commander-in-chief, to wait on the 
Prince. ¥e found him in the Mali, at the upper end 
of a double line of his subjects, apparently of ali ranks 
and conditions, engaged as the umpire of athletic 
contests. The ground between the two lines was 
measured out for flat leaps ; and there were appliances 
near at hand for high leaps. The Prince himself had 
in his mouth an immense chibouque which rested on 
the ground ; and the brilliancy of his dress contrasted 



MONTEKEGEO. 189 

remarkably with the half-clothed, ragged appearance 
of many of the bjstanders and performers. Nothing 
could be more courteous than the Prince's behaviour 
while the gymnastic eiercises were going on. After 
enquiring about our past route and future intentions, 
he eipressed his sorrow that the Archbishop, on whom 
the Ecclesiastical government had now devolved, waa 
absent on a pastora! visit in a distant part of his dio- 
eese, — Berda. He even offered, if we could wait two 
days, to summon him back again, in order that we 
might receive from him the most exact account of the 
ecclesiastical arrangement of the province. He then 
eipressed his pleasure that a definitive line had been 
drawn by Commissioners, an English and French 
engineer, between the Montenegrin and Turkish pos- 
sessions ; so that, instead of berog compelled, like 
his ancestors, to fix his capital in a place so inac- 
cessible, so barren, so bleak as Cettigne, ezcluding ali 
po8sibility of trade by the same obstacles which pre- 
vented the approach of the Turks, he should now be 
able to found a new city by the side of a navigable 
river, in a rich, fertile plain, and with the advantage 
of an Italian climate. The language in which he spoke 
was French, which he used fluently ; while he seemed 
to speak Italian and German with the same ease. The 
future city he proposed to call from his own name, 
Đanieloberg. I little thought, as I listened to him 
then, so full of life and strength, discussing, with the 
brightest anticipations, the future fortunes of his little 
State, that in a few months he would be lying in a 
bloodj grave ; and, in a few more, hostilities, on a more 
threatening scale than «ver, would have burst out 
between his people and their perpetual oppressors. 



190 MONTEOTGBO. 

We witnessed these exercises tili dark; and the 
Prince was then kind enough to provide us with 
apartments by ejecting some of the senatore ; and with 
food, by sending it down from the Palače. That night 
was remarkable for one of the most tremendoua 
thunderstorms that I ever remember ; but at an early 
hour, we woke to find the morning bright and cloud- 
less. Our first object was the Palače. It is a quad- 
rangle of two low storeys, though the side facing the 
green has only a wall. Tou pass under a kind of oriel 
below the entrance porch, and the Prince's dwelling- 
house lies on vour right hand. The rooms are but small, 
and rather overloaded with pictures. Among those in 
the reception-room are the Emperors and Empresses 
of Eussia and France, — the latter, the peculiar friend 
and patron of Prince Daniel, who, indeed, received a 
pension from that Court. Here, after for so long a 
time having heard nothing but foreign languages, it 
was a pleasure to be introdnced to an English lady, 
who was charged with the education of the Prince's 
little daughter, — his only child. Prom her we heard 
much of the unremitting exertions which the Prince 
has made in promoting education and civilisation. In 
fact, a single glance at the outbuildings of the Palače, 
as compared with the account of them given in Wil- 
kinson's book, shows what an advance has been made : 
much of it, probably, owing to the fact of a lady's 
being at the head of the Court. Then, every battle- 
ment bristled with the head or skull of some unfor- 
tunate Turk; now, it had no otber ornament than 
flowers. We heard bitter complaints of the severity 
of the winter, and the eager ezpectation with which 



H0KTE1TJSGB0. 191 

an Italian January was looked forward to for the 
next — that is, the present — year. Hence we visited a 
billiard-room in the course of erection, and the gar- 
den ; and, after this, the church. The latter forma a 
part of the original monastery, in which the VladLkas 
lived, while they were ecclesiastics ; since that time, 
retaining only a few monks, it has been turned into 
a place of education. The church is Eomanesque, 
and very Bmall. It consists of apse, two little tran- 
septs, and nave. The apse-arch is plain First 
Pointed ; the nave is two bays, also First Pointed. At 
the east end of the south transept lies the shrine of 
S. Peter : it is simplv a bier with its hearse, over 
which a pali is thrown, there being no picture or other 
eiternal symbol. The tower has a low, pyramidal 
head. The facade of the monasterv has three stages. 
The upper is a series of circular arches, supported 
on short circular piers, with square base and square 
cap. The second, of the same arches with square 
shafts. The third, of obtuse arches of construction, 
rising not more than two feet from the ground. Tou 
enter the church at the right hand of this facade, by a 
kind of vestibule, additional to the south transept. 
Hence we went to the armoury, also contained in the 
monastery. It is the most singular collection of 
scvmetars, guns, pistols, lances, horsetails, battered 
helmets and cuirasses — every possible fragment of 
wood and steel, which can give an idea of hand-to- 
hand engagements, from the time of the battle of 
Lepanto to this. They are heaped together without 
any attempt at arrangement, — pieces of the skteenth 
century, with others captured only last year; the 



192 MONTENEGBO. 

merest fragment, with the uninjured rifle of yesterday. 
On several of them one may notice a deep dark stain, 
that shows at tbe cost of how fierce a struggle they 
were obtained. 

Having tbus seen ali that Gettigne has of interest, 
and the provinces beyond its second range of moun- 
tains asking a longer time to explore them tban we 
had to give, it only remained for us to take a different 
course back to Cattaro. Tbe Prince recommended that 
we sbould visit, on our way, tbe chapel in wbicb tbe last 
Vladika is interred ; and, accordingly, we started with 
that intention. Tbe road was somewhat more savage 
than that of yesterday ; but, after ali, partly from tbe 
yet remaining snow, and partly from tbe effects of 
tbe tbaw, we found it impossible to reach tbe pin- 
nacle on wbicb the little churcb is percbed like an 
eagle. Striking back again, then, into our old course, 
after ten hours' riding, we saw beneatb us the lovely 
Canal of Cattaro, tbe opposite mountains, tbe silver 
line of the Adriatic beyond them, tbe high fortifica- 
tions to our left, and were welcomed down tbe many 
zigzags of the last descent by tbe catbedral bells 
chiming for vespers. Eeaching our old quarters, we 
sent Dundicb to the steamer just arrived from Corfu, 
to make arrangements for our return passage ; and, at 
a little after ten that night, found ourselves, to our 
great content, very comfortably at our ease in one of 
tbe excellent berths of this large vessel. 



193 



Chafteb XII. 

RAGUSA; LEŠINA; HOME. 

I Have no design of writing the very interesting his- 
tory of Kagusa. Wilkinson and Paton have anticipated 
such a task. I have onlj, after reminding the reader 
that it never vielded to the dominion of Venice, to re- 
count what it possesses in the way of ecclesiologj. Its 
freedom from the Queen of the Adriatic is curiously 
recorded by the two slips of Turkish ground, which 
intersect the Austrian territorv to the right and to the 
left of that which was the ancient republic. The road 
through these strips is neutral ground ; the countrv on 
each side, even down by the sea, belongs to the Turk. 
That to the south, runs down by a place cafled Xvigne ; 
that to the north, a little above Gravosa. 

The steamers do not go into ftagusa, but into the 
bay of Gravosa, vrhich lies on the northern side of 
the promontory on which the town itself stands. This, 
with its adjunct, the Val d'Ombla, is (with the excep- 
tion of Cattaro) the most lovely scenery in Đalmatia. 
Wilkinson well says : — 

" The entrance of the Val d'Ombla is a short way to 
the N.W. of Gravosa ; and an hour's row brings you 
to the end of that picturesque valley. At the first 
village, on entering it r is a sulphureous spring, very 
similar to that of Spalato. Advancing up the estuary, 
or loch, the beauty of the scenery increases ; and, as 





194 BAGUSA; LEŠINA; HOME. 

its course is winding, a diversity of views present 
themselves. The lower part of the hills is covered 
with a variety of foliage ; amidst which the dark green 
of the cypress contrasts well with the grey olive, that 
thrives here, and bears much fruit; and rock and 
wood, hamlet and villa, mingled together and reflected 
in the water, with the circle of mountains above, form 
a succession of beautiful pictures ; a principa! feature 
of which is the Church of the Franciscan Convent, 
standing on a point of land near the end of the valley 5 
where the river expands into the loch,* 

This river is the ancient Ario or Arion." 
A mile and a-half through a series of villas and their 
ruins: the suburbs of Eagusa having been entirely 
ruined by an expedition of the Montenegrins in 
1805. In the times of their glory, when the word 
argosy spread the fame of the merchant republic to 
every sea, the principal men of the state had their 
country houses along the road we now pass ; it com- 
mands a lovely view of the bay, with the islands of 
Daxa and Calamotta ; and here, more luxuriantly than 
anywhere else in Dalmatia, the palm tree flourishes. 

Eagusa, in Illvrian Dubrovnik (the wooded city,— 
from Dubrava, wood), in Turkish, Paprovnik — cannot 
be eipected to offer much in the way of ecclesiology. 
It had already suffered from earthquakes in 1520, 
1521, 1639 ; when on the 6th of April, 1667, a more 

* The siže of this sheet of water, and the short distance from 
which the river comes, before it expands into this great breadth* 
are alluded to in the verses of Elio Cervino : 

" Dannbio, et Nilo non vilior Ombla fuisset, 
Si modo progresflus posset habere snos. M 



bagtjsa; lešina; home. 195 

tremendous convulsion occurred, by which the city 
was almost destroyed. " It was only announced by the 
effects of the sudden shock itself, which destroyed 
every building except the fortresses, the lazaretto, and 
some edifices of solid construction. The sun had 
8carcely risen two hours ; the inhabitants were mostly 
in their houses, or at prayers in the churches ; and 
5,000 individuals were in an instant buried beneath 
the ruins. The crash of falling walls, the rocking of 
the earth, the groans of the dying, and the tears of 
those who had escaped, presented a scene of horror 
and dismay. The ships in the port were dashed 
against each other, the sea rose to an unusual height, 
the wells were dried up, and a dense cloud of sand 
filled the air. No one felt secure ; the dread of a 
second shock appalled the boldest ; and fear only sub- 
sided to give place to grief, for the death or sufferings 
of relatives and friends. Ali had to lament the loss 
of some one who was dear to them ; and the deaths 
of the Kettore Ghetaldi and other distinguished 
citizens were felt to be a public misfortune^ Nine 
tentbs of the clergy were killed ; and a whole schoo 
of boys, who some days afterwards were heard to cry 
for water, beneath the fallen walls, perished miserably, 
without the means of rescue. Smaller shocks con- 
tinued at intervals ; many persons fled to Gravosa ; 
and so great was the fear of approaching the ruins 
and tottering walls, that none thought of extinguish- 
ing the fires, that had been kindled among the fallen 
rafters of the houses and the public ovens. A strong 
wind springing up spreađ the flames in every direc- 
tion ; and no sooner had the fire ceased, than a baud 

o 2 



196 bagusa; lesika; homb. 

of Morlacchi, who had come to the market, began to 
pillage whatever the fire hađ spared ; while the in- 
habitants, intent upon their own aafety, or engaged 
in assisting their friends, were unable to interfere ; 
and those who ventured to oppose them were mur- 
dered, for defending the property they had saved. 

The Senate, in the meantime, neglected no dutj 
of humanity required at such a moment ; and everf 
effort was made to check disorder, and repair the 
calamity. The gates were shut, to exclude other 
bands of Morlacchi, who were coming from the hills ; 
and measures were iminediately taken, to rescue the 
wounded from the ruins. 

Confidence was at length restored; and the people, 
encouraged . by the advice and consent of the nobles, 
having overcome the first impulse of fear, which had 
suggested the abandonment of their city, made every 
effort to rebuild their habitations. Four familiea only 
followed the example of the archbishop, who, with some 
monks, and numerous nuns, fled to Ancona." Earth- 
quakes, more or less violent, are felt every twenty years ; 
the last occurred on the 14th of September, 1843. 

Passing through a pleasant faubourg, where, under 
a group of lofty trees, vehicles* ply for hire, we 
entered by a gate, the first which did not bear the 
Lion of S. Mark, but has instead the tutelar image 
of S. Biagio (S. Blaise) we put up at the Corona 
d'Ungheria. 

Alas for the Cathedral ! it would have been, but for 

* A curions change since the time of Wilkinson, who says 
(vol. i. p. 372) " Kagusa has neither carriages, nor dranght horses, 
overything being carried by portera." 



BAGTJSA; LEŠINA; HOME. 197 

the earthquake, of the greatest interest, having been 
founded by our Bichard Cceur de Lion, on his return 
from the East. But it utterly perished; and the 
present Cathedral of S. Biagio is an Italian building, 
entirely worthless. The city waa originally under the 
protection of SS. Sergius and Bacchus, to whom a 
Cathedral was erected by Paulimir, in 691 ; but the 
head of S. Blaise having been brought over from 
Armenia by a pilgrim priest in the tenth century, and 
that priest having been warned by the Prelate, in a 
dream, of an impending attack of the Venetians, the 
inhabitants, out of gratitude for their deliverance, 
assumed the Asiatic Bishop as their proper Saint. 
The architect was Angelo Bianchi ; the building was 
finished in 1713. The sacristy contains a collectionof in- 
estimable value to the student of mediaBval goldsmith's 
work. The reliquaries which hold the head of S. Biagio, 
proeured as above-mentioned ; his left arm, given by 
Venice, in 1346 ; his right arm, a present from Thomas 
Palaeologus, despot of Peloponnesus, in 1459, seemed to 
me, as well as I could see in their dark recess, to display 
the most exquisite art. But there must be forty differ- 
ent pieces at least, brought hither for safety from im- 
perilled monasteries in Bosnia and Herzegovina, of 
firet-rate importance. I could bave cried with vexa- 
tion at being separated from so invaluable a treasure 
by only an iron screen ; but no entreaties, no bribes, 
though I offered tvoenty florms to be allowed to see 
them but for one hour, could prevail on the sexton to 
open them. The Bishop himself, he said, could not 
give me permission without a capitular act. It was 
the only time the Imperial recommendation failed. 



198 BAGTJSA; LEŠINA; HOME. 

The Kagusan moonlight is celebrated ali over 
Europe ; and, certainly, as we čame back late at night, 
from our first visit to the city, and saw the bay of 
Gravosa quivering under its sweet influence, and the 
white monastery of Val d'Ombla beyond the water, 
glimmering from its grove of pines and cvpresses, I 
did think that nothing in the world could be so lovely. 

lt was on my second visit to Eagusa that I explored 
the Dominican Convent. The church itself is perfectly 
modernised — a mere oblong room — though with bits 
here and there, which shew it to have been, like the 
monastery, First-Pointed. The east end is square ; 
the Chancel domed. There are a good many old 
fragments behind the High Altar : I copied from a 
small slab at the east end — 

Hic requiescit 

dns Ursacius dicerevc 

cnm suis beredibus 

Obut MCCCXV. 

die primo Elmo. 

the last line of which I cannot understand. I observed 
also an approximation to the usage of the Eastern 
Church, in the number of crowned pictures suspended 
round the walls of the building. 

The cloisters are far more interesting. They form 
a tolerable sized quadrangle, of five bays each way. 
They are First-Pointed ; each division contains three 
arehes ; the shafts are circular with square Corinthian- 
ising cap, and circular, on square, base. Between each 
two, above a small quatrefoil, is a very elegant orna- 
ment of three intersecting triangles. 

I have called this work First-Pointed. Tet from 



bagusa; lešina; HOME. 199 

its identity with other work in this same city, which 
we know to be of Third-Pointed date, from a certain 
leanness and baldness of its mouldings, and from a 
refinement very unlike the rude honesty of the un- 
doubtedly First-Pointed work at Curzola and in other 
of the iBlands, I am almost inclined to think that this 
is in truth Eagusan Third-Pointed, giving way to one 
of the tricks, not unusually played by that style ; and 
on which Mr. Webb has some excellent remarks, in 
his Continental Ecclesiology, page 376. I am the 
more inclined to believe this, from the arcading of 
several of the shops which surround the Cathedral ; 
and which bear no token whatever of the remote 
antiquity which they would at first seem to promise. 

In the monastery we were received, as usual, with 
great courtesy ; and though the greater part of the 
library was sold by the monks at the Prench invasion, 
there remain about fiffcy manuseripts of considerable 
value ; and I spent several hours in eopving sequences 
from them. Hence we visited the Franciscan Monas- 
tery which, except for the library, has little of interest. 
The quadrangle, though very much mutilated, is at 
least pretty with its variety of semi-tropical plants, 
which trail over its walls. The church itself is en- 
tirely modern : its tower is lofty, of four stages, its 
upper ones with baluster windows, and the whole sur- 
mounted by an octagonal cupola. In a somewhat 
elaborate Flamboyant south door, the tympanum has 
a well carved Mater Dolorosa. 

I had a great desire to visit the first Turkish village, 
Bertano, only three miles from hence. My companion 
preferred to explore, at leisure, the treasures of the 



200 BAGTJSAJ LBSINA: HOME. 

Dominican convent. I went, therefore, with Dundich, 
to the Boschetto, a pleasant little grove just outside 
of the southem gate — this gate, by the way, like ali 
the others, is flanked by square mediaeval turrets, and 
po88e8ses no real strength ; — andfrom the bazaar there, 
we hired two miserablj lean horses, and were informed 
that no passport was necessary. The road immediately 
began to ascend, curving round the gulf of Brenno, 
just by a place called Porte Plocce, and then by zig- 
zags ascending the bili. Behind us lay the old city 
girt in by its curious mediaeval fortifications ; beyond 
it, the lovely Val d'Ombla ; to the immediate right, the 
gulf of Brenno, with the little island, sometimes called 
Croma, sometimes S. Marco. On this latter, the 
Archduke Maximilian has laid out, we were told, 
30,000 florins, partly on a fortification, partly on a 
Franciscan house. Across the bay, lay the decayed 
village of Ragusa Vecchia, the ancient Epidaurus ; 
beyond this, fenced in by higVcliffs on either side, and 
•stretching towards Cattaro, the valley Ville Ligna ; 
and to the north of the latter, snovr-capped Mount 
Sniegsizza. As soon as we had surmounted the 
highest zigzag, Bertano lay immediately on the oppo- 
site side of the glen ; and the first minaret that I 
ever saw, was at that very moment capped with a hor- 
ribly black thunder cloud — ^no bad emblem of a race 
sitting in darkness,and the shadow of death . The village 
itself was as wretched and filthy as most of those in 
Herzegovina, though nearly a moiety of the inha- 
bitants are, I believe, Greeks. Neither in the ortho- 
dox Church, nor in the Mosque, is there anything of 
the sUghtest interest. 



RAOTSA; LESIffA; HOME. 201 

We returned to Gravosa through a seconđ lovely 
evening. The nightingales were singing from every 
bush by the wayside ; and the mixture of these with 
fireflies, palm-trees, hoopoos, and the aloe, seemed to 
us a strange yet beautiful confusion of England and 
the tropics. At Gravosa, we hired a boat, and cross- 
ing to Val d'Ombla, visited the neat little Dominican 
convent there. It has nothing in the way of archi- 
tecture to interest the traveller, any more than the 
smaller house of the Jesuits, on the opposite side of 
the bay. But I never saw anvthing more lovely, as 
we walked the quarter-deck late at night, than the 
gradual rising of the moon over the mountains, the 
darkening shade of the cvpress groves, and the beauti- 
ful reflection of the white convent in the unruffled 
lake. 

At 8 o'clock the next morning, having in the night 
coasted the outside of Meleda, and run between Cur- 
zola and Lagosta, we found ourselves rapiđly passing 
Lešina, the aocient Pharos, by a corruption of which 
name it is called, in Slavonic, Hvar. In primitive 
writers it has won the title of Sancta, on account of 
the gireat number of its martyrs. It may be forty- 
two miles in length, while it varies in breadth from 
two miles to seven and a-half. We čast anchor off 
the town of Lešina, at the western extremity of its 
island, at 8 a. m. A very picturesque place it is, with 
its Venetian Unes of architecture, and the rich creamy 
yellow colour of its houses. In its steep steppy 
streets, and their ezcessive narrowness, it reminded 
me strongly of Curzola. 



202 BAGUSA; LESIKA; HOME. 

T # Santo Spirito was the first church; a 

S. Spirito. verv sma ^? rude, Bomanesque building. 
The apse is circular, the nave of three 
bays, the roof very acutely pointed, and clearly 
later. There is a miraculous image of S. Mary, 
which has acquired considerable celebrity. The west 
door is square-headed, under a pointed arch of con- 
struction. The shafts of the doorway are voluted, 
with heads at the upper angles. In the tyinpanum is 
an ancient figure, under a trefoiled arch ; and in the 
apei of the western facade, a ten-leaved rose, each 
leaf trefoiled. 

Higher up the hill is the Cathedral, 
CathedraL — a building sadly modernized, yet not 
without its interest. The choir seems 
divided into two portions, the eastern quite modem, 
the western in three bays, like Santo Spirito. The 
floor is of red and white marble. The seven stališ 
on each side with subsellso are much admired by the 
natives: they are fair Flamboyant work. The 
ambones are more remarkable. Each is octagonal, 
supported on four shafts ; the shafts themselves cir- 
cular, with octagonal flowered capitals, and circular, 
on 8quare, bases. They are still used and vested. 
Besides these, there is, at the entrance of the choir, 
a stone desk, supported by a circular shaft, which 
proceeds from the back of a lion, — the whole a very 
singular composition. The nave, which is modernized, 
has four bays : the pictures which ornament it, have 
the Greek type very strongly. West of the south 
aisle are some singular frescoes : highest of ali, the 
Madonna ; under that, S. Gatherine and S. Lucy ; under 



bachjsa; lešina; HOME. 203 

these, two figures with a lamb and a book, and another 
with an open book ; under these, the Twelve Apostles. 
The tower, to the west of the north aisle, has five 
stages ; the upper pierced with four, the next with 
three, the next with two, and the next with one, cir- 
cular light. Not far from this, near the centre of the 
Quay, are the Loggie, built by San Michaeli, and bear- 
ing S. Mark's lion. Near to this is the Venetian 
tower of S. Mark, the church of which was destroyed 
by lightning some years aga 

This is the last church with which the reader will 
be troubled. 

On leaving Lešina, we immediatelj passed the 
island of Lissa, celebrated from the victory obtained 
by Gaptain Hoste, over a French squadron, and which 
I cannot describe better thaninMr. Paton's woids:— 

" This French force consisted of four frigates of 44 
guns, two corvettes of 32 guns, and three sloops, with 
700 infantry on board, That of Captain Hoste, off 
Lešina, consisted of the * Amphion,' 32 ; the ' Active,' 
38; the ' Cerberus/ 32; and 'Volage,* of 22; or 880 . 
Britons to 2,500 Erench and Italians. What's in a 
name ? Wonders. With such appalling odds against 
him, the gallant Hoste felt that something was neces- 
sary to produce a moral effect in so critical a moment ; 
and the telegraphic word, 'Bemember Nelson!' 
thrilled through every heart, while prolonged cheers 
echoed from deck to deck of the little squadron. 

" Close to the eastern shore of Lissa, the ' Amphion,' 
Captain Hoste, with the ' Active,' ' Volage,' and ' Cer- 
berus,' in close order, awaited the enemy, who bore 
down from the north-east. Dubourdieu, in the 



204 BAGUSJL; lesdta; hove. 

c Favorite,' led the van ; and marking the l Amphion,' 
which lay nerfc the shore, for his own, he prepared to 
board her, while his other frigates and small craft 
might make easy work of the ' Active,' the * Volage,' 
and the ' Cerberus.' A crowd of seamen and marines 
thronged the forecastle of the French vessel (' Favo- 
rite.') Dubourdieu himself stood forward to direct 
and encourage his men ; and so close was the ' Favo- 
rite' to the ' Amphion,' that eager expectation could 
be read on the countenances of the men. The grap- 
pling tackle was ready, the cutlass vas drawn, and the 
pike was prepared ; but just when a few vards sepa- 
rated the two ships, off went a five-and-a-half-inch 
howitzer with 750 musket-balls from the quarter-deck 
of the ' Amphion ;' and as if Death in his own person 
had swept his scvthe from gunwale to gunwale, Du- 
bourdieu and his boarders were prostrate in an instant. 
Foiled in the attempt, the Captain of the French 
frigate, who now took the command, attempted to 
pass round between the ' Amphion ' and the shore, and 
thus place Hoste between two fires ; but so nicelv and 
narrowly had the ' Amphion ' chosen her position, that 
the ' Favorite ' got ashore in the attempt, and was thus 
in a great measure hors de combat. This important 
incident gave such a tura to the struggle as the French 
never recovered ; but the odds being still against the 
English, the contest was prolonged for several hours. 
The British squadron now stood on the larboard tack ; 
but the * Cerberus,' in wearing, got her rudder choked 
by a shot, which caused a delay ; but the action con- 
tinued. Captain Hoste, in the * Amphion,' being now 
galled by the fire of the * Flore,' 44, and the ' Bellona,' 



EAGUSA; LESI5A; HOME. 205 

32, closed with the former, and in a few minutes the 
' Flore' struck; but having receiveđ by mistake some 
shots of the ' Bellona,' which were intended for and 
went past the 'Amphion' after she had struck, an 
officer took her ensign, and, holding it over the taffrel, 
threw it into the sea, Hoste now crossed to the 
' Bellona,' and compelled her also to strike at noon, 
just three hours after the action began ; but no sooner 
was this accomplished, than the ' Flore,' belving her 
surrender, was seen crowding sail to escape, pursuit 
by the 'Amphion* being by this time impossible, her 
foremast threatening to fali, and her sails and rigging 
rendered unserviceable from the cross-fires she had 
sustained. The Test of the Gallo-Venetian squadron, 
upon this, attempted to escape; but the British 
* Active,' pursuing the Venetian ' Corona,' compelled 
her also to strike, in a running fight, at half-past 2 in 
the afternoon; thus terminating one of the most 
gallant actions on record. Three 44-gun frigates, in- 
cluding the escaped ' Flore,' and a 32-gun corvette 
having struck to the British squadron. 

" Lissa thenceforth became to the end of the war 
an English possession. Colonel .Robertson was civil 
and militarv G-overnor. Twelve natives formed a legis- 
lative and judicial council. A small fort was con- 
structed, and the towers to this day bear the names of 
"Wellington, Bentinck, and Eobertson." 

Thirty-six hours after leaving Lešina, we čame 
once more in sight of the southernmost promontorj of 
Istria. It was a calm, lovely summer night ; a glossy, 
leaden hue on the still waters. As I walked the 
quarter-deck during its earlier hours, nrst I made out 



206 BAGTJSA; LEŠINA; HOME. 

the bay-entrance of the harbour of Pola ; then I caught 
the Compline or, probably, Matin, bell from Santa 
Catherina ; then light behind light, at Gfrongera, at 
Rovigno, at Parenzo, flashed along the darkening 
shore. There I bade farewell to beautiful Istria ; and 
once more, at 7 o'clock tbe next morning, we found 
ourselves at the quay of Trieste. 

That night — a night of storm and rain — we crossed 
the Adriatic, and had our first view of its Queen on 
Whitsunday morning. Hence, giving a few days to 
that gloriou8 city and to Milan, we arrived at Turin. 
And so, over Mont Cenis, to S. Jean de Maurienne. 
Here I would recommend the little Cathedral, still 
curious, though modernized, and its singular Sacra- 
ments-house, to the traveller with a vacant hour. 
Here, also, I heard the bitter complaint of the inha- 
bitants at their proposed transference to France, — a 
transference to take place in the week immediately 
succeeding that of my visit. 

Thns, by Chambery and Macon, to Pariš ; and our 
old route via Calais and Dover, closed a very happy, 
and (to me at least) instructive, tour. 



THE ENI>. 



INDEX. 





Page 




Page 


S. Agatha 


17 


Gratz Ferdinandi-capelle 


30 


S. Antonio (Veglia) 


93 


Franci scan 


32 


Aquileia Cathedral 


46 


Maria Himmel-fahrl 


32 


Aussee, Church .... 


19 


Pfarrkirche 


31 


Chapel 


20 


Ursuliner-kirche .... 


33 


Baura .... 


8 


Hashruch 


4 


Begliano 


44 


S. Jean de Maurienne 




Besca Nuova 


. 105 


Cathedral .... 


206 


Besca Valle 


104 


Lauffen 


16 


Bruck, Minorites 


26 


Leoben S. Maria 


25 


Buje Cathedral 


73 


Lešina, Cathedral 


202 


Capo d'Istria, Cathedral 


67 


S. Spirito 


202 


Capuchins 


68 


Lielzen 


23 


Observan- 




Linz Cathedral 


7 


tines .... 


69 


Lussinpiccolo Cathedral 


109 


Cattaro, Cathedral 


165 


Macarska Concathedral.... 


158 


S. Luke 


168 


Malinski 


93 


S. Spiridion 


169 


Marburg, Dom .... 


35 


S. Catherine (Island) .... 


83 


S. Maria 


72 


Cettigne, Monastery 




Michelsdorff 


26 


Church 


191 


Mitterndorff 


23 


Curzola 




Monialcone 


44 


Ali Saints 


160 


Parenzo Cathedral 


79 


Cathedral 


159 


Passau, Cathedral 


5 


S. Michael 


159 


S. Gertrude 


6 


Duino .... 


42 


Jesuits .... 


5 


S. Fosca 


96 


Maria Hilf 


6 


Geishorn 


24 


S. Michael 


5 


S. George (Montenegro) 


184 


S. Paul 


5 


Gmunden 


14 


Pirano, Cathedral 


70 


Goisling 


17 


Franciscaus 


71 


Gratz 




Madonna delle 8a- 




Barmherzige 




lute 


72 


Bruder 


33 


S. Fietro 


71 


Cathedral 


28 


S. Stephano 


72 



208 



INDEZ. 





Page 




Page 


Poglizza 


.. 95 


Spalato, Cathedral 


.... 149 


Pola, Cathedral 


.. 86 


S. Chiara 


.... 153 


Franciscans 


.. 88 


S. Giovanni 


Bapt. 151 


Prosecco 


.. 41 


S. Pasqaale 


.... 153 


Kagusa, Cathedral 


.. 197 


Trieste Cathedral 


.... 38 


Đominicans 


.. 198 


Val d'Ombla .... 


.... 200 


Franciscans 


.. 199 


Veglia, Cathedral 


.... 98 


Roitham 


.. 11 


Clarissines 


.... 101 


Rottenmann .... , .. 


.. 24 


S. Francisco 


.... 99 


Santpor 


4 


S. Maria 


.... 100 


Sebenico, Cathedral 


.. 130 


Visinada 


.... 74 


Dominican .. 


. 133 


Wilshofen 


.... 3 


Franciscan 


. 133 


Žara, Cathedral.... 


.... 116 


S. Luda 


. 133 


S. Elias .... 


.... 122 


Madonna di 




S. Grisogono 


.... 121 


Borgo 


. 133 


S. Maria .... 


.... 120 


S. MariaValle 




S. Simeon.... 


.... 124 


Verde 


. 132 


Zlatinski (in Boa) 


.... 156 


S. Pasquale ... 


. 133 


Zoccolante 


.... 101 


Selve (Island) ..„ 


. 111 







Page 7, line 18.— For "to," read « her." 

14 m 9.— For "1446," read" 14A5." 
44 „ 9. — For " Sanctorius," read " Sanctorum." 
78. — In the engravmg of the tabernacle, read " Eufrasius" 
for "Fnfrasius." 
102 „ 22. — Before " One of them," insert « nevertheleas." 
137 „ 8. — For " Traugurium, ,, read " Trau, the aucient 

Tragurram." 
158 „ 27.— For "on\y t " raw*"hardly." 
162 „ 24. — The quotation from Penrose should end at 

" geographical miles," 
165, last line.— For " de," read « die." 
173 line 1. — For"wiil be described hereafter," read "have 
been already described." It was at firat 
intended that Chap. X should 
Chap. VIII.